FIRST DAY BACK

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There is that song that goes…..Back home in Indiana. Well, I am back home in Key West. Yesterday was my first day. I loved it!

Jet lag hovers over me. Not bad. A bit of a heavy head. Feel pressure on top. Otherwise not yet a problem. I woke yesterday morning at 4. Went to bed last night at 9. Woke this morning at 5. No sleeping or tiredness in between. I hope the trend continues in this fashion.

Yesterday morning’s first task was unpacking. Tons of dirty clothes. I already have Anna here this morning working on them.

It was great to sleep with air conditioning. I missed it in Italy. Horrible sleeping! Even with two fans blowing on me. Slept with the windows wide open. The mosquitos came in. Good for 8-10 bites a night. The choice was simple. Air or mosquitos. Breathing won out.

I had to renew my driver’s license. Lisa drove me. My license had expired while I was away. I did not want to drive without a valid license. It would be just my luck to be stopped or have an accident.

Took two trips to the Motor Vehicle Bureau to get the license. I failed to bring all necessary documents the first time. My old driver’s license, passport, and medicare card were not enough. Needed a recent bill directed to my present address and the Social Security card itself. I did as directed and was successful the second time around.

I do have a complaint, however. The woman who took care of me the first time was a bitch. First class. Bordered on rude. No smile. Seemed to take pleasure in my having to get additional documentation and return.

When I returned, she was not there. A man took care of me. A gentleman. Had a sense of humor. Explained some new things to me. Like the need for the gold star in the upper right corner of the new license.

The gentleman obviously enjoyed his job and people. The woman should be transferred to a basement job to work in solitary and have no contact with Motor Vehicle Bureau customers.

It was now after 3. I had not eaten since a cracker and cup of coffee around 7.

Some typical American foods are not available in foreign countries. Like simple ham and eggs. I had a craving! I was off to Harpoon Harry’s. Enjoyed the eggs, ham and buttered whole wheat toast. Did not touch the potatoes.

By the way, I lost weight on the trip. Eight to 10 pounds. Even though I was eating, it was generally only two meals a day. Add the walking and the weight loss becomes understandable.

Hope I can keep it off!

The heat and humidity in Key West is heavy. Much heavier than in Novara. We in Key West can tolerate it because we are in and out. Of our air conditioned homes, cars, restaurants and stores. Ain’t no air conditioning in Italy. There has always been a power shortage and the medieval buildings have walls too thick to work through.

Italians complain, but do not use the minimal air conditioning available to them. The air conditioning in a car is an example. No one turns it on. Gas is expensive. Like $14 a liter. Italians fear running the air conditioning will use too much gasoline. A fallacy. However, they will not listen.

My stop of choice around 5 was Don’s place. Don was still away in Indiana. He returns this evening. David, Hershel, Rob, Jimmy and Toni were there. I was glad to see them all. I assume they were equally happy to see me. I chatted for quite a while with David and Hershel.

Love Toni! She reads my blog religiously. Always tells me when I return from a trip how she daily followed it and how enjoyable my reports were.

Thank you, Toni!

I really was out of food! Away two months. It was Publix time. Loaded up. My usual American diet. Different from the recent European one. I worry I am going to gain the weight back.

Actually, I did not diet at all while on the trip. It would have been stupid. I was away to have fun. My meals were totally different. Fattening I would have assumed. Like a couple of hot rolls every morning. Generally, one filled with chocolate and the other covered in sugar. In Key West , it is fruits, whole wheat bread, and the like. No sweets!

I have returned just in time. David and Hershel told me bocce starts next week. Terrific!

Enjoy your day!

BACK HOME IN KEY WEST

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I have returned! I am back home in Key West!

I missed Key West and my friends. Badly. The place and people have finally become irrevocably ingrained in me.

I was up 22 straight hours. From the time I got out of bed in Novara, Italy till the time I went to bed in Key West. Surprisingly, it did not bother me. Probably because the long flight over the Atlantic took place on European day time. My time clock for the past two months.

The night before I left, it was Hemingway and Key West again. I had dinner on Lake Maggiore. The Italian portion.

Lake Maggiore figured in Ernest Hemingway’s personal life. He was wounded as an Italian ambulance driver in World War I. Much of the fighting he was involved in took place in northern Italy. He was hospitalized near Lake Maggiore. He spent some time at Lake Maggiore itself recovering. At the same time, he fell in love with one of his nurses.

Speed forward to Hemingway’s time in Key West. He started writing A Farewell to Arms while living in Key West. Basically rough drafted the novel here.

A Farewell to Arms is the story of an American serving as an Italian ambulance driver who is wounded in World War I. He is hospitalized near Lake Maggiore. Falls in love with a nurse. For reasons not important here, the hero had to get the nurse to the other side of Lake Maggiore. The Switzerland side. They row boated across the lake in a storm. She died.

I had dinner on the north end of Lake Maggiore near Switzerland one of my first nights in Italy. Then did it again my final evening, except this time at its southern shore.

Flew Delta into Atlanta. Then Delta to Key West. Had a three hour lay over. Met some very interesting people. All of whom had a Key West connection.

First came Snow. A beauty! I would enjoy getting to know her better. Unfortunately, we had never met before. She has probably been in Key West longer than me. She was on her way back to Key West from a trip to Maine.

She said I looked familiar. She had read some of my KONK Life columns.

On the plane, I was seated next to Paul and Caytlin. Father and daughter. He is military reserves and also a civilian firefighter at the Key West Naval Base. He has been deployed more than once. Most recently, Oman. He was engaged in combat in Iraq.

Intelligent. Understood world events and impacts. He and his wife plan on settling in Key West when he retires. Which is soon.

Daughter Caytlin was 16 years old. Going into her junior year. A personality! Smart. Thus far has a 4.3. She is concerned it is not high enough!

Paul introduced me to his wife Tracy who was at the airport waiting for her family to return. Lovely and pleasant.

I would like to know Paul better.

While the plane was loading, a couple walked by my seat. Hello, Key West Lou! We had met last year at the Chart Room. I am embarrassed. I cannot recall their names. Old age. In the brief moment we had, we agreed we would probably meet at the Chart Room during their stay here.

Recognition night was not over.

I was standing outside waiting for my ride which was late. A lady was standing next to me in the same predicament. We started talking. She said, I know you. You’re Key West Lou! I read your blog every day. We are friends on Facebook, also.
Liked Beth. Hopefully will run in to her again, also.

I also decided I better be a good boy all the time. Too many people have come to know me.

Lisa, Corey and Jake picked me up. Loved seeing them again. Jake appeared a bit subdued. Lisa told me that in addition to not liking the water, he definitely does not like riding in the car. It is a project to get him in. Jake is one very fussy dog.

The house was in pretty good shape. Except. There is always an except. My downstairs air conditioning was blowing warm. Hopefully, it will get repaired today.

Glad to be back! Look forward to running into many of you in the next few days.

The Key West Lou Legal hour television show airs on Friday mornings at 10. While I have been away, reruns have been shown. There will be a rerun tomorrow morning also. I am fearful of doing the show while suffering from jet lag. I probably would end up with a blank look on my face not remembering what I was supposed to say next. The show goes live next Friday!

Enjoy your day!

TOMORROW KEY WEST

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Tomorrow Key West!!!

I am ready. I have been away too long. Home beckons.

No blog tomorrow. I have to leave at 8 in the morning to get to the airport in Milan. I will not arrive in Key West till around 8 tomorrow night Key West time. Two in the morning on the time I have been living for two months. I will be dead.

I am exhausted this morning.

I did not sleep well. I am in Novara. No air conditioning. Yesterday was a run run day. Between the two, I am shot. On the other hand, the trip may be catching up with me. It was exciting, but on the go most of the time.

Wi fi continued to be a problem yesterday. I was in Courmayeur. The closest wi fi was 8 miles away at a Sports Center. I borrowed a car for the drive over.

I do not know if I was permitted to drive in Europe. Additionally, I had not driven a stick shift car since the late 1950s.

About 2 miles into the trip, the car stopped. No juice. Battery appeared to be dead.

A fix. I was in a foreign country. Did not know if I was permitted to drive. No cell phone. Verizon made sure of that.

I must have looked a pathetic sight standing outside the car. A SUV stopped. A family. Parents and child. The husband spoke English. He offered to take me to a garage down the road.

The garage man said he was too busy to deal with a dead battery. Woe is me, I thought.

My new found friend drove me to another garage. The owner did not speak English. However, he understood my problem. He drove me back to my car. Got the battery and car going. Then followed me to his garage. I needed a new battery, he said. Who was I to argue. A three hour wait. Somehow I got across to him where I had to go and why. My blog and KONK Life column had to be done. I suspect he thought I was some sort of reporter or TV star from the United States.

He immediately put in a used battery and told me to return in 3 hours or more. Off I went.

When I got to the sports facility, I was told that wi fi was on and off in the valley all morning. It would be hit and miss.

Great!

It took me 15 minutes to get on. I was on and off for several hours. Whatever, I got this week’s column off to Guy deBoer. The Athens beggar story. Read it. You will enjoy. The paper will be available Thursday.

Drove back to the garage. The new battery had arrived. The owner put it in immediately. A real nice guy.

He charged me 170 euros. $230 American money. I do not know if expensive or not. I did not care. The car was fixed!

Typical of Italian and Greek businessmen, he refused to give me a receipt and I had to pay in cash. Everyone tries to beat taxes. I can’t blame those that do in Italy and Greece. Because of the euro problem, they are being taxed to death. Italian real property taxes went up another 30 per cent. Just like that!

Later, the 3 1/2 hour drive back to Novara.

I still had not done yesterday’s blog. I was up till after midnight doing it.

Not a relaxing day. I am not complaining. I am happy to have had this year’s European experience. As I think of it, yesterday was the first tiring day of the trip. Not bad.

Enjoy your day!

TRATTORIAS NO MORE

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Thirty five years ago, I visited Italy for a month. Trattorias all over the place. A not too pricey Italian restaurant. Good food.

This trip I discovered restaurants called trattorias are a thing of the past. I saw a total of two in my travels through Milan, Novara, and Courmayeur.

The former trattorias have been relabeled/renamed. Ristorante is one. The other Ristorante and Pizzeria.

Pizza definitely has come into its own. Restaurants serve a whole pizza. That is the only way a pizza can be ordered. One to a person. The customers eat them up. Every morsel. Italians leave nothing on the plate. I ate at a Ristorante and Pizzeria tonight. actually called E.T.’s Ristorante and Pizzeria. While I was enjoying a pasta dish at my table, the couple at the one next to me each devoured a whole pizza. All done with white tablecloth and napkins.

Carmelo and his brothers came to Key West many years ago. They opened La Trattoria on Duval Street. They made the restaurant a fantastic success. Then sold it. If Carmelo and his brothers were opening a new Italian restaurant today, no question in my mind they would call it a Ristorante.

Wi fi has been a problem throughout my travels in Italy and France. Very few establishments have wi fi available to customers. Whereas in Greece, wi fi was available all over the place.

I spent a good chunk of yesterday afternoon sitting at an outdoor café in Courmayer. I enjoyed the ambiance and view. I came to the conclusion that the men of Courmayeur have trophy wives or trophy girl friends.

I have fallen behind in posting photos. Tomorrow comes the deluge.

I mentioned the beggars I saw in Athens. Thought they were the worst ever. Several have written and said in effect they had seen beggars in the United States. Even in Key West. What in effect was the big deal?

I took the comments to heart together with what my eyes had seen on the streets of Athens. There is substantial difference between “begging” in the United States and begging in Greece. A world of difference. Ergo, I have to dispute those who disagree with me. No problem in not agreeing with me. A problem exists however if a person disagrees without having first hand knowledge of the facts.

If a person has not seen with their own eyes the beggars on the streets of Athens, such persons are in no position to dispute my observation. Not because you were not there. Rather because you do not know what you are talking about.

I say such with all due respect. It’s the lawyer in me.

Let me help the situation a bit. I decided to write an extensive article on the issue. I titled it The Beggars of Athens. It will appear in this week’s KONK Life as my column of the week. The issue will be published thursday. Dig it up on the internet and read it. I guarantee you will find it revealing.

If you still disagree with me after reading the article, so be it. We have a legitimate difference of opinion regardless of how the opinion was arrived at.

Go to KONKLife.com. Select the edition you wish to read. Leaf through it to find my article.

In 48 hours, I will be sleeping in my bed in Key West. I am ready to return. I miss family and friends big time.

Enjoy your day!

MONT BLANC TUNNEL

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I am presently in Courmayeur, Italy. Yesterday, I decided to go to Chamonix, France. Mont Blanc was in the way.

No big deal. Around 1960, Italy and France built a tunnel under Mont Blanc connecting the two cities and two nations. Travelers were able to save 60-100 miles as a result.

The tunnel took eight years to construct.

It is a little over seven miles long. Only 28 feet wide. A few inches over fourteen feet high. Two lanes, one each way.

Additional lanes are needed. However construction costs are prohibitive and have prevented the construction.

There was a major fire in the tunnel in 1999. Thirty nine people killed. Amongst other things, the ventilation system did not work properly. Instead of sucking the toxic fire fumes out, it drove them back into the tunnel.

Everything purportedly fixed now and it is not supposed to happen again.

I went through the tunnel several times last year. I went through it twice yesterday. Once each way.

Traffic entering the tunnel from both sides is controlled. When the toll is paid, vehicles are not permitted to immediately take off. There is a time factor between each vehicle. About two minutes.

Cars are not permitted to piggy back or get close in any way. Each vehicle must remain at least 500 feet behind the one in front. All through the tunnel, there are blue blinking lights on each side measuring the 500 foot distance for drivers.

Speed is controlled. Fifty to 70 km per hour.

The traffic control is so efficient that when there is going to be a delay, blinking signs miles away announce the delay and how long. I got stuck in a 90 minute delay on the way back to Italy. The traffic was backed up on the French side 3 miles. When I say backed up, it means no movement. The motor is turned off and you sit for 10-20 minutes. Then on again to move forward a few car lengths.

It was not a bad situation. People get out of their cars and talk with each other. I enjoyed the company of my neighbors. Precisely 90 minutes after I entered the 3 mile span, I was in the tunnel.

The delay in itself was an experience. Expected and accepted. Nothing anyone could do about it anyhow.

Other than the tunnel delay, yesterday was basically unexciting. McDonalds was the big event for me. After McDonalds, my plans got screwed up. I intended to go up in a cable car or train over the top of Mont Blanc. A WOW I assumed. However, it started raining. Pouring. The end of trips up and down for the day. I was disappointed. The experience would have been unique.

I was back in my chalet early. Read. Not a bad situation. I was able to sit on the terrace. The one facing Mont Blanc. Each time I looked up, there was the glacier topped peak. A sight to behold.

To my friend Don, a message. If Don is still up north at his camp, someone please bring my message to his attention. The message: Don, I am out of cigarettes!

The honeymoon is over come this wednesday. I will be back in Key West wednesday evening.

Enjoy your day!

NO AIR CONDITIONING IN ITALY

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Italy is basically without air conditioning. It is claimed there is some. However, you can’t prove it by me. I have yet to experience any.

Which means…..Hot and uncomfortable in Novara.

A person sleeps with the windows wide open. Need air! Sheets a bit sticky. Dying for air! Air conditioning!

The open windows invite mosquitos. Every night. My blood must be sweet in my old age. I am the recipient of several bites a night.

There are two reasons for the lack of air conditioning.

One is that Italy does not have nor ever has had sufficient electric power. The other is that most of the buildings are so old and with such thick stone walls that it is impossible to air condition them.

A lack of air conditioning is why Italians eat their big meal at lunch. It is too hot to stay in their apartments, let alone cook a big meal in the evening. Italians rush outside. Sit around till about 11 at outdoor cafes. Have a sandwich or pick on something light. At 11 things are cooler, though not cool cool. They return to home and bed. Pray to be able to fall asleep quickly so they will not continue to feel the discomfort of the fading heat.

Automobiles are involved with the air conditioning problem, also.

Most automobiles have air conditioning. However, it is little if ever used by Italian drivers. The reason is the cost of gasoline. Around $13 a gallon. The same reason why all cars are stick shift and small. To conserve on gasoline and save a dollar or two at the gas pump.

Italians drive with open windows. The outside hot humid air blasting in. They think they are cool.

When I am in a taxi or limousine, I wait a few minutes and then ask for air. The drivers always turn it on. About 20 per cent of what is required. The windows are shut. The air conditioning grossly insufficient. I start to swelter and sweat. I ask for more air. I generally have to repeat it several times to get the air to the point where I am comfortable.

Yesterday, I walked a couple of hours. Downtown Novara is an interesting place. Most buildings constructed in medieval times. Like 1,500-2,000 years ago.

I ventured into the side streets. Deserted. Narrow roadways. Just enough room for one small car to travel.

I got lost. No big deal. Saw a lot of old buildings. Some in good shape. Some in terrible disrepair.

I came across a small retail store on one of the side streets. In the window were Church vestments. The type Catholic priests wear when saying Mass. I went in. Fortunately, the proprietor spoke English. Yes, he only sold vestments for priests. He was actuTlly a mail order business. the vestments were made in Novara and shipped world wide.

I found the whole experience exciting. I was an altar boy for years. I used to get the vestments out for the priests, return them to the closet after Mass, and assist the priests in dressing before Mass. Brought back memories from 65 or more years ago.

It was a Church day. I passed what appeared to be a small Church. Decided to stop in. Catholic Churches are generally beautiful inside. A Mass was just starting. I am a fallen away Catholic . I have not been to Mass in I don’t know how many years. I stayed. For the whole Mass! Talk about memories from days gone by!

I went to a birthday party last night. In an Italian restaurant that served only Italian food. I was the only American. Every one else was Italian or from some other country.

My hosts were Italian and Moroccan.

The meal started with a large dish of assorted fishes. When it was placed before me, I thought I was supposed to take some and pass the plate on. No, each person had their own large plate.

I dug in. I could not finish. Left about a quarter of the plate. My Moroccan hostess was seated next to me. She looked at the dish and looked at me. You do not like, she asked. No, I am full. Are you sure? Yes.

Turns out it is considered an insult in Italy not to finish every morsel of food on your plate. It means you do not consider the food good. An insult to your host.

I thought the fish dish was it. We were done eating. No, the fish dish was an appetizer. Now the main course. Each person ordered off the menu. I order what the host ordered. Spaghetti in oil with clams. Spaghetti vongole.

A huge platter was placed before me. No American restaurant serves that much pasta in one dish. I dug in. I did not wish to insult my hostess further.

The dish was too much for me. I was splitting and uncomfortable. I gave up half way through. My hostess said nothing. I believe she was convinced I was full.

Interestingly, every one else cleaned their plates.

It was announced last night Silvio Berlusconi’s appeal failed. He is scheduled for jail. Because of his age, he is 76, he will probably get house arrest or community service for one year.

Berlusconi is an extremely popular man in Italy. Especially in the north where I am. He is also the political power in Italy. The news reports are clear that if Berlusconi is not treated properly, his party will probably withdraw their support for the present President and Prime Minister. Italy’s government would immediately collapse.

Even the appellate court that ruled against Berlusconi was/is aware of his importance and how he must be treated with kid gloves. Berlusconi presently sits in Italy’s national legislature. Under Italian law, if convicted of a crime, a person can no longer hold office. The court in its decision asked that that portion of the law be relooked at so Berlusconi could continue to sit.

Berlusconi is also presently on appeal for having had sex with a 17 year old. He was convicted and sentenced to a jail term. Last night after hearing of the appellate court’s ruling against him, it was reported Berlusconi said in effect…..Screw them, I am going out and pick up some young girls tonight! The reaction of the Italian people was to be expected. They loved his comment! Typical Berlusconi!

I leave for Courmayeur later today. The Alps. I will be staying in a Swiss chalet half way up Mont Blanc. Mont Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps.

It will be cool. I have been told to bring long pants and a jacket. What a difference three hours traveling will make.

Enjoy your day!

AUSTRALIAN INSIGHTS

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I flew from Athens to Milan yesterday. I had the good fortune to be seated next to a woman of beauty and intelligence. She was from Australia.

The young lady is a public servant. Civil Service type for the Australian government.

I obtained significant insight from our chat.

From the 1990s into the early 2000s, Australia was on the verge of an economic crisis. Jobs and cash flow were needed. The two political parties running the government got together. They passed laws appropriating monies for infrastructure. Jobs were created, money flowed. The stimulus plan worked. A financial crisis was avoided.

Note that the two Australian political parties worked together. Politics in Australia is as adversarial as in the United States. However, when the chips were down, the parties joined together to do the necessary.

The United States needs an infrastructure stimulus program. Obama pushes it. The Republicans reject the idea. When will country over politics reign in the United States?

Australia biggest export customer is China. They export more goods to China than any other country. China needs everything. They are buying. Australia imports Chinese goods, also.

Obviously, no balance of trade problem between Australia and China.

Why does the United States have one and not Australia? What is the United States doing wrong with regard to its China trade policies? Why can’t the United States and China work together as Australia and China are?

Australia did not experience the bank problem we have had in recent years. The reason is that Australia required the banks to have more liquidity. Higher surpluses and reserves.

United States banks have not been held to the same high standard as the Australian banks. Probably because Australia’s leaders are less prone to favor banks over the electorate. I have a feeling corporate/banking lobbyists do not have the same influence in Australia that they do in the United States.

It is interesting that a democratic nation similar to that of the United States appears to operate more intelligently and effectively where economics are concerned. Perhaps it is the air they breath on the other side of the world.

I was shot when I arrived in Novara late yesterday afternoon. First time I have really been tired this trip. I was in bed asleep at 7. Woke at 4. Stayed in bed till 6. Feel a hell of a lot better this morning.

I have started working on next week’s KONK Life column. The Beggars of Athens. From Diogenes to present day. Guaranteed interesting!

Enjoy your day!

MY LAST FULL DAY IN ATHENS

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Yesterday, I slept late. I was comfortable in bed. My body refused to move.

Later, I took a walk. Up and down Ermou Street, Athen’s busiest commercial street. I finally learned its name yesterday even though I have spoken of it every day.

Saw an inviting outdoor café. Took a table. Sat for two hours watching the Greek world go by. I ordered a freddo cappuccino. It is a cold cappuccino. It is the only Greek coffee I have learned by name. Ergo, it is my drink of choice where ever I go.

I made some observations and arrived at some conclusions while sitting. Let me share them with you.

Spaghetti seems to be the lunch favorite in Greece. The famous Greek salad comes in the evening.

There have been no demonstrations while I have been in Athens this year. Last year, I was fortunate to walk through two involving thousands of people. There are union called protests. Nothing however like the ad hoc yelling crowds of last summer.

I constantly learn. Learn of my mistakes. I always thought Acropolis and Parthenon were two separate sets of old buildings on top of the same mountain. Turns out Acropolis is the mountain and Parthenon the buildings.

Sneaks are different in Greece. Whether male or female, they are low slung. Similar to the American walking sneak. No one wears the big Nike. I did. Stopped. Thought I looked foolish, that every one was looking at my feet.

Sandals are also big with men and women. I was ok in this regard. Sandals have a universal appearance.

Women’s foot attire is another story. Athens needs a Stephanie Kaple. Heels forget. On the whole trip thus far, I have seen one set of stiletto heels. A woman working in a high end jewelry store on Santorini was wearing a pair of four inchers.

Platform shoes are worn. Not that many, however. Most women, whether dressed or casual, walk around in sandals with full backs at the ankles. They seem to be the female shoe of choice.

The New Dawn Party is a rebirth of the Nazi Party. It is a growing influence in Greece. When I see them in their black uniforms, I feel the same way as I did on Amorgos when the big Greek Coast Guard vessel arrived and sat in the middle of the entrance to the harbor for several days. Intimidated.

Automobiles were in the minority in Milan. Mopeds were the vehicle of choice. In Athens, it is the motorcycle. I have never seen so many. Crossing the street is a dangerous event!

Young Greek men are lovers. Especially in Athens. They move on every woman, regardless of age. The ladies seem to expect and enjoy it.

There is a constant sense of being a part of history when a person is in Greece. Much like visiting the Washington Memorials, Mount Vernon or Gettysburg.

I quick visited a museum I came across behind Parliament. Entry fee 10 euros. What country are you from? The USA. 10 euros. Seems only the US and German patrons pay 10 euros. Everyone else, 2 euros. We know the Greeks hate the Germans. I can understand why the Germans would not be given a break. But why an American citizen? The Greeks seem to love us. Big time! I suspect they believe Americans are all rich and can afford full price.

The young lady collecting the admission fee at the door and I had a brief chat. She was very upset. She recently finished her university education. She has four degrees. Could not get a job. She works as a ticket seller at the museum and makes a paltry 300 euros a month. $400 American money. She is angered.

I stopped at the Grande Bretagne for a manicure. The same young lady that did me last year did me yesterday. Her name, Chrysa. She said upon seeing me…..You are from Key West, you were here last year. Amazing!

I shall close with the saga of the two elevators.

I think I am losing it a bit.

I had to take the elevator to get to the beauty shop. The elevator doors shut behind me. I looked to both sides and saw no button panel. I did see a sign at eye level. It was dark, had on sunglasses, and have bad vision to boot. The word VOICE stood out. Next to the sign were two little speakers.

I was impressed. A new elevator concept. You recall I experienced one in Washington, DC recently. I said….Two. Nothing happened. I have a clear deep distinct voice. I repeated the number several times. Nothing happened.

I thought…..Shit, I’m stuck in an elevator!

My eyes dropped. There at about knee level was the usual appearing button panel. I pressed 2 and was on my way. I read the sign when the doors opened at 2. The message was in effect to relax if you were stuck. A voice would come on in due course and you could talk to someone.

I returned to my hotel. I am staying in 806. The door opener is one of those swipe things. The door would not open. It had opened the previous two days with no trouble using the same card. I found the floor cleaning lady and told her of my plight. She agreed to let me in. We tried my card again first. She asked what my room number was. I told her 806. We were on the sixth floor and I was trying to get into 606!

Enjoy your day!

BEGGARS…..SICK DOES NOT DESCRIBE

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Athens has street beggars. On its most commercial street. Immediately below the Parliament building.

I walked there yesterday. Within the first four blocks, I saw five beggars.

The first three were elderly women. Marked by the absence of teeth. One or two hanging, otherwise gums. One woman was seated in the middle of the street. The street was closed off to vehicular traffic. The other two walked up to me. Each holding a a cup in hand and saying something in Greek that I could not understand. Their intent was clear, however…..Help me!

The next two were male. One without feet and the other without arms.

The one without feet was the easier of the two to handle. He was sitting with his back up against a building. His feet were missing from just above the ankles.

The armless one was gut wrenching.

I saw this man sitting on the curb. He was missing one arm from just below the shoulder. The other from just above the elbow. His arm remnants were extended. One sort of up, the shorter one at about a 25 degree angle.

At first, I thought the man was a statue. He did not seem to move. I went into a nearby doorway to observe him. He was human. He was alive. His abbreviated limbs moved on occasion. Though, slightly.

His face was disgusting. He must have been the victim of an explosion or fire. Tan and yellow skinned. Hanging flesh. His head was almost completely bald. He did have a tuft of hair on the back. Sticking straight up.

I returned to observe him closely. At a respectable distance.

His eyes. At first I thought him blind. His eyes were both to one direction and looking upward. Not moving. Then, moved slightly. He may have been of limited vision.

Clothe in rags. A small bowl in front of him for contributions.

We do not see this in the United States. Fortunately. Begging has always been a part of Greek society. It amazes me that the Greek government has never done something to help these people. Even in better economic times.

I ended up taking the longest walk of my trip. It was not intended. It just happened. I walked to the plaka. At its entrance to the side, I observed a large sign. Athens Flea Market. Why not!

The flea market was extensive. Long. Like the winding alleys of the Casbah. Once in, it was hard to find the way out. I just kept walking.

Finally, I found a side street leading directly into one of the main plaka streets. The one on the Rockefeller side, the poor side. I walked it to the bitter end. First time.

On the way back, I stopped at an outdoor café to rest. It was boiling hot. Parts of my shirt soaking wet.

I enjoyed a draft beer and observed.

I was seated with the building the Rockefeller Foundation had paid to reconstruct 500 feet to the front of me. Massive. Sits at the base of Acropolis. To my back was an archeological digging. A pretty good sized one. Many persons working. Excavating a community hidden for centuries beneath the ground. Houses, rooms and old pathways could be observed.

I also got to observe business done the Greek way. There are street hustlers everywhere. Peddling their goods to tourists. One was walking around with a handful of men’s wrist watches. He was negotiating the price with a tourist. Turned out to be a young American. The peddler wanted 20 euros for one. The American said no and counter offered. By the time the transaction was over, the American walked away with 2 watches for 10 euros.

It made me wonder. Could the watches be for real? They looked good. But at that price? I suspect the watches were devoid of innards to make them work. Or, were stolen goods and therefore any price was a profitable one.

I stopped into the Rockefeller renovated building. Sort of a museum. Saw a baby’s high chair estimated to have been built some 2,000 years before the birth of Christ. Nothing much changed in design from then to now.

Last night was a disappointment. I ate at the same café I had eaten at 4 weeks ago in the plaka. I had a terrific meal at the time. Went back for another one. Ordered the exact same thing. Even had the same waiter. Grilled egg plant and a dish of assorted grilled meats.

The meal sucked! It was terrible!

Such is life.

Enjoy your day!

ATHENS LAST NIGHT

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Athens is a 25 minute flight from Santorini. I had to wait 45 minutes to get my luggage. Amazing!

Nikos drove me to the Santorini airport. What a guy!

I noticed on the drive into Athens from the airport that there were a lot of police cars. The cab driver told me it was because Italy’s Prime Minister Enrico Letta was in town to meet with the Greek hierarchy.

For some reason, I was not in the mood for plaka last night. My usual Athens night time haunt. I walked in the other direction. Ended up at the Grande Bretagne. I had tried to get a room there when planning the trip. One of the world’s great hotels. I was told there were no available rooms.

There were a lot of policemen outside the Grande Bretagne. Inside, I had to go through security. Like in an airport. I sensed Letta might be staying there. I would not ask, however. Greece makes me uncomfortable on occasion.

I enjoyed a superior evening at the Grande Bretagne! Even better than that!

I started at the bar. I was drinking Beefeaters. During my talk with the bartender, he asked if I had ever tried Beefeaters’ 24 Gin. It is Beefeaters top of the line. Forget never having drunk it, I had never heard of it. I wonder how many of you have.

In any event, I tried a glass. I did not like it. It had a perfumey bouquet like Bombay Saphire.

I decided to eat something. It was around 11 in the evening. I had not eaten since brfeakfast. I took a small intimate table just outside the bar area.

I ordered bruschetta. Three different types were served on vertical slices of a French type bread. One salmon, another mozzarella and tomato. The third was a vegetable of some sort. I susect zucchini crushed into an oily dressing. The whole thing to die for!

There was a piano player. Seated at a large baby grand. He played only American songs. He caught my ear with My Way. Later, his rendition of the theme from the Godfather blew me out.

There I was seated in absolute beauty enjoying excellent food and entertainment.

I thought how lucky I was.

The room. The Grande Bretagne is a distinguished old hotel. The bar area where I was seated is on the side of a huge high ceilinged dining area. Columns to the sky. Paintings. Antique furniture pieces. A physical heaven.

The Germans desecrated the Grande Bretagne with their presence during World War II. High ranking German officers occupied the hotel for living purposes. Offices were maintained in the building, also. I could envision German officers enjoying the room then as I was last night. A shame.

When I left, I had to pass through the crowd of police. I made it out just in time. I was 25 feet from the hotel when the sirens came blasting. Cars drove up. Four abreast. The street is extremely wide. Brakes screeched.

It was the man!

Italy’s Prime Minister Letta was staying at the Grande Bregtagne. He hopped out of his limo, gave a wave to everyone around, and entered the hotel. He had his jacket slung across his arm, no tie and his sleeves rolled up. Gave the impression he had been working. Some one told me that is his trade mark. No jacket or tie, sleeves rolled up.

I recently read that when ever Obama travels anywhere, like 200 staff and protection persons travel with him. The cars he will use are transported by plane, also. It made it easy for me to understand the retinue of cars stopping and people following the Prime Minister into the hotel.

There are two type police in downtown Athens these days. One official. The other unofficial, but tolerated. The usual police and members of the New Dawn Party. The New Dawn Party is the Nazi type political party gaining power on an increasing basis every day. The New Dawn members wore black and both walked and rode mopeds. Young good looking strong appearing individuals. I saw them out and about last night. In three different places. They travel in groups.

There was some sort of demonstration yesterday in front of the New Dawn headquarters in downtown Athens. Near Parliament. The party memebrs played the Nazi National Anthem. The very same one banned in Germany since World War II. During the demonstration, New Dawn handed out free food to whoever needed it. Not a hot dog. Bags of food. Families have a hard time getting enough food to eat in Greece these days.

Immigrants are the Jews of yesterday. The New Dawn Party blames them for Greece’s economic problems. Each person receiving food first had to establish he/she was not an immigrant.

I cannot wait to walk the streets of Athens today. Greece is an interesting and increasingly dangerous place.

Enjoy your day!