I’M GREEKED OUT!

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I’m Greeked out! I am ready to move on. This does not mean I do not like Greece. It just means I have experienced it all for this year and boredom is starting to set in.

My time in Greece was extended from originally planned. I sensed something happening in Greece the first week I was here. I wanted to verify my feelings. My plans were juggled to permit me to extended my Greece time by two weeks. Whatever I wanted to accomplish has been accomplished. In my mind. My thoughts to be shared when I return.

For me, Greece is three islands and Athens.

Athens is pure love. It is one of the world’s great cities. Like New York, Paris, and London. What is there not to like? My return to Athens is for three nights. Then to the Italian alps. A Swiss chalet half way up Mont Blanc. Within an hour’s drive to Switzerland and France.

The three islands I have come to know are Mykonos, Santorini, and Amorgos. Mykonos has the best beaches. Santorini the best view. Amorgos the best wind. Amorgos also has the promise of tomorrow.

I spent two weeks in Mykonos last year. Ten days planned and four extra days because I could not get a ferry boat out due to the bad seas. I did not like Mykonos. Ergo, it was not on the agenda this year.

Mykonos became famous back in the 1950s and 1960s. Movie stars and jet setters popularized the place. It became their playland. 2013 is 50-60 years later. Mykonos still has the reputation. However, there is not a movie star or jet setter on the island. It has become a tourist haven. Wannabes looking for the excitement of yesterday. Additionally, a tourist trap. Merchants hustle everyone. Friendliness lacking.

Therein lie the reasons I did not return to Mykonos this year.

Mykonos does have one non-comparable attribute, however. Its beaches. The best I have ever seen. Soft sand. Quiet water. Great beach bars and restaurants. Plus, topless and nude women. The women merely frosting on the cake. The beaches are that good.

Santorini has a view that is spectacular. Absolutely spectacular! The Lord could not have planned it better. The cave apartments also add to the ambiance. However, you cannot sit on a cave terrace and watch the view all day every day. That is where the problem comes in. After a volcano visit and catamaran trip, there is little to do.

Santorini is becoming a tourist haven. Most merchants on the hustle. Waiters disrespectful. Food not always the best. Prices very expensive. Note however there are still many places and people to the contrary. Such as the Taverna Katina and my cave apartment landlords Nikos and Maria.

Santorini is still good. I fear however it is becoming the tourist trap that Mykonos is.

Amorgos is like a five year old child. On the verge of blooming. It awaits the world.

The island is yet to be discovered. As I have stated in the past, it is a 100 years behind the times. Sitting on the Aegean, waiting for the world to visit it. Prices still dramatically cheap. Anywhere from 50 to 100 per cent cheaper than Mykonos and Santorini. The merchants love you and you love them. They care for you, are thankful for your business, and do their best to please you.

The beaches leave something to be desired. Stoney beaches. Water clear, however. Think Le Grand Bleu.

Amorgos has the wind! A big wind! Kept Katopola where I was staying comfortable all day. A strong cool wind off the sea is almost a necessity of life on a Greek isle in the summer months.

My sense is that Amorgos will be where Santorini is today 20 years from now. Sad. Enjoy it in the meantime.

I spent four hours yesterday morning at the internet store. First correcting my messed up blog from the day before, then doing yesterday’s blog, and finally writing next week’s KONK Life column. The article is interesting. The Real America. It starts with Michael Moore. Then goes from Travon Martin to Obama to Bank of America to the Religious Right to Pat Robertson to Halliburton. The column closes with Weiner and Spitzer. A revealing commentary in many respects. Some things you may not have known.

Lunch was at Mezzo. A chocolate milk shake again. I am a little boy at heart.

Later this afternoon, I start the trek to Athens. Tonight the Plaka. Dinner at the foot of a lighted Acropolis and Parthenon.

I will be in Athens three nights.

The family and I are in touch. Jake is getting car sick. Just from a short ride around town.

Enjoy your day!

A MESS

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Wi Fi did me in yesterday! I was completing, correcting and revising my blog. The Wi Fi kept going in and out. Somehow the final product did not get published. An earlier one did. With all the misspellings and improper grammar.

I did not know till this morning. I am profoundly sorry. I take too much pride in the product to have sent it off in the fashion it was received.

The blog was corrected this morning. It was good to go and is good to read.

Two nights ago Maria told me yesterday would be the hottest day of the summer. It was! What heat! Overbearing!

I have never had need to use the air conditioning in my cave. Yes, even caves have air conditioning. Yesterday, I did. Then prostrated myself on the bed for 4-5 hours till the sun receded over the cliff to the west.

Before the heat hit me, I was walking. I realized very soon how difficult it would be. I stopped into Mezzo to get out of the heat and have lunch.

Even at 78, I get cravings. I have been thinking of a chocolate milk shake the past few days. I satisfied my desire yesterday. A chocolate shake for lunch! I am still a kid at 78.

I spent parts of the day off and on working on next week’s KONK Life column. The Real America. It will be short and hard hitting. Another eye opener.

Last night was lamb on the spit again at the same taverna where I enjoyed it two nights earlier. Same good! Same taste!

I sense I am mellowing out. First time in ages. A good feeling.

Enjoy your day!

Wi Fi ON THE ROAD

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Computer hook ups can be a problem on the road. I know.

First, forget anything your provider suggests. It will not be dependable and cost too much for nothing but pure aggravation.

The key is Wi Fi. I consider Wi Fi a blessing. A benefit to travelers who need, depend on, love their computers. To those who cannot live without.

I have found however that when you are in the boondocks of the world as I am, even Wi Fi has its drawbacks. Wi Fi is generally dependable. However, if everyone wants on at the same time, it does not work. I am staying at a first class resort on Santorini in the Greek isles. From 6 to 8 in the morning, no problem. My computer works terrific. I have internet connection world wide.

The world starts waking at 8. Overload. The Wi Fi connections weakens. Generally, no Wi Fi for a couple of hours. The same problem around 3 in the afternoon when everyone comes in from the beach or out of the sun.

Still better than nothing.

When I am desperate, I find an internet store. For a couple of dollars I have a strong connection everywhere. However, an internet store is an inconvenience since I want on when I want it and not at the convenience of store hours.

So much for venting.

Yesterday was haircut time. I needed one badly. I have little hair on top. However I was three haircuts behind. My hair looked terrible.

I visited Catherine. The owner of hair & soul (spelled with small letters) who gave me a manicure 3 weeks ago and a manicure last year, also. My first haircut with her. In her beauty shop with three women getting their hair done at the same time.

I told Catherine use the #1 setting. She did. Two minutes later my haircut was complete. A stub just above bald.

Catherine felt guilty. No time involved. She threw in doing my ears and eyebrows. She also gave med a cool rinse to wash out the little hairs and cool my head.

When I went to pay, she said no. I cannot charge. I did nothing. After twisting her arm, she said 10 euros. I gave her 15. Kissed her on the cheek and said see you next year.

Maria is one of the owners of my cave hotel. She washes and irons my clothes. For nothing. Everyone seems to feel sorry for me and want to do with out recompense.

Maria brought me a bowl of big fresh figs. From her garden. I had two for lunch. Delicious!

I spent three hours in the afternoon at the pool. Under an umbrella, of course. The sun was a killer. I already have a deep tan from just walking around.

First, I was alone. Then two young European ladies showed up. Mid 20s. Lovely. Bikini clad. They were enjoying the pool and hot tub. How they could handle the hot tub, I did not know.

A little later two more young ladies arrived. Asians. 20s also. Lovely, as well.

They wanted shade. They set down on the two lounges next to me. The only shady spot available. Bikini clad.

It was my day!

Before the afternoon was over, the four and I had become fast friends. The two Europeans were from Bulgaria. Girl friends on a holiday. The two Asians, China. Also girl friends on a holiday.

They could not speak English. I could not speak their languages. We had a terrific conversation. One of the Bulgarian ladies had brought a bag of fresh vegetables and fruit to eat. The bag was shared. I enjoyed figs again and a banana.

I wondered how they could afford Santorini. So young.

Last night was dinner at Taverna Katina. My favorite restaurant on Santorini. Set at the base of a mammoth cliff directly on the water. I once again sat on the very edge of the pier. If I swayed too much one way, I would have been in.

I ate at Taverna Katina 3-4 times last year. Three times again 3 weeks ago. I was remembered. A nice feeling.

I did not need the menu. I enjoyed a fish egg salad and greens for appetizers. The fish eggs were crushed and mixed into some kind of soft cheese with a touch of olive oil. The greens boiled and served covered with a touch of oil.

My entre was sea bass. I have come to love sea bass. The fish is splayed, grilled and then covered with a touch of olive oil. Olive oil on everything in Greece! Sea bass has a sweet taste to it.

I enjoyed the entire meal.

Maria’s husband Nikos drove me to and then picked me up from the restaurant. Great people! I do not believe they do this for everyone. I made two good friends of them last year.

Enjoy your day!

YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE…..

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Some things are difficult to believe. Such as the story I am about to relate.

Two years ago, a new cave hotel opened in Oia. Adronis Suites. About 300 feet from Nikos’ place where I am staying. Everyone tells me the new cave hotel is expensive. Very expensive. How much? Responses varied from $1,000 to $1,500 per night. Hard to believe.

I stopped at the new hotel yesterday. Brochure? No brochure. They handed me their business card and said all I wanted to know would be on internet.

The rooms go for 3,700 euros a night! $5,000 American money!

I find it hard ot believe. I cannot believe it. I lived my life denying myself nothing. Went everywhere, did everything. Never was I asked for that kind of money. And rest assured that had I been asked, I would not have payed it!

Ridiculous!

I watched two young ladies checking in this morning. Early 20s. No way could they afford the place. They were scrawny appearing. Not that good looking. Not kept women if the thought occurred to you.

I have a feeling the hotel is some devious operation. Perhaps money laundering. Who knows. If legitimate, I spent a lifetime in the wrong business. I should have owned a couple of high end hotels like this place.

The wind has become a factor.

Amorgos had the burning sun every day. No humidity. Always cool because of the northwest wind which blew into the bay.

Santorini was hot yesterday. Hot hot. Like I cannot take anymore hot. No wind. More accurately stated, no wind on my side of the cliff. The Oia side.

The cooling wind comes from the northwest for Santorini, also. However, Oia faces southwest. The caves and Oia life are over the crest of the hill facing southwest. The cold northwest wind only 500 feet away. But on the other side of the crest. Ergo, the mountain itself blocks the cooling northwest wind for those of us on the southwest side.

The choice is the view or comfort. The view is worth the discomfort.

Oia’s evenings are cool. There is no humidity day or night here. The masterful wind from the northwest is called meltemi. It only exists in July and August. Then gone until the following year.

During the winter, the wind comes from the southwest. It reverses itself. Nikos said starting in late October the wind is so cold, even he and his family move to another part of the island.

I mentioned the huge number of cats on Amorgos. I rarely saw a dog. I recall my last 1 1/2 hours standing on the concrete port dock in Amorgosw in the boiling sun waiting for the ferry boat to arrive. While standing there, an elderly woman opened the door to her home. Out she came followed by 15 cats. I counted them.

On Santorini, I have only seen dogs. Many of them. Not a cat yet, though I am sure they are here.

Dinner last night was spectacular. I was tired. Heat exhaustion. I did not want to walk far. Ended up in a nearby tiny restaurant. Sat outside on the deck.

I asked what was good. Something different is cooked every evening. I wanted lamb chops. He said…..lamb on the spit!

We had a language problem. I made it known I would like to go in the kitchen and look at the lamb cooking. I was allowed to so do.

The cook was happy to see me. He was probably in his 60s. Bald headed. Fat. No shirt. Bare to the waist. Sweating big time. Chopping something up with a huge cleaver. Which he handled with precision.

There on the spit was this large former sheep turning and cooking. Actually being kept warm. It looked already cooked. Juices dripping off it.

I had lamb on the spit. I am convinced it was lamb and not goat. It looked like a lamb cooking and tasted unquestionably like lamb. I have never enjoyed a more tasteful piece of lamb. Juices still moist. Tender. Just the right amount of fatty taste.

When I finished, I went in the kitchen to congratulate the cook. Actually, thank him. I could see from the look on his face that I had made his evening.

The heat is already up today. I feel like I am in a blast furnace. I have walked. As soon as I finish here, I am going down to the pool to cool off.

Enjoy your day!

BACK ON SANTORINI

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After three delightful weeks on Amorgos, I have returned to Santorini for a week. Santorini will be an enjoyable stay.

The two islands are different.

I love Amorgos because it is yesterday and laid back. Santorini is the view. Different flavors, different strokes. Each satisfying in its own way.

Santorini is a one hour ferry boat ride from Amorgos. It took me all day! Yesterday had its negatives.

I did not know till 3:30 in the afternoon whether the ferry boat was coming. Bad seas. In the meantime, I had to pack and leave my apartment because new tenants were coming in. Eleni was good, however. She arranged a room for me in the event I had to stay another night on Amorgos. However, I could not gain access to the room till it was certain I was staying over.

I was with a large suitcase with no where to go. I stayed on the terrace in the sun. Spent some time at Mythos. Said my goodbyes to three special friends I made. Spyros, Vangelis and Suzanna. Good people all!

Then word came. The boat was coming! Joy to me and a hundred other persons.

The ferry boat was due at 5:30. It was an hour late. Did not show till 6:30. I was standing on a concrete dock in the sun for 1 1/2 hours waiting.

The boat got me to Santorini at 8. One and a half hours late. The seas were still rough. The first 15 minutes of the ride were a bit exciting. I thought I was going to get sick! I assume everyone else thought they were going to, also. Up and down, big dips, with no end in sight. Started just as we left the harbor. After 15 minutes it stopped and was a smooth ride the rest of the way in.

Nikos met me. What a great guy! His cave apartments are on the other side of the island from where the ferry boat landed. Maria gave me a Greek hug and kiss when I got to the caves.

Andromaxi welcomed me with a big hug and kiss when I arrived at Mezzo! She was excited to see me. I was excited to see her. You will recall that I described her a few weeks ago as a classic Greek female beauty.

I wanted a cheeseburger! Chbeeseburger in paradise. Another paradise. I had not had beef in quite a while. Delicious!

I stopped in the bakery store this morning to buy a warm roll. The elderly woman who runs the place gave me a big smile and hug, also. First time.

Santorini is a hugging and kissing place. All of Greece is for that matter.

Besides the various differences described between Amorgos and Santorini, there is another. Santorini is more expensive than Amorgos. Tremendously so!

My best estimate is 50 per cent higher for the same item. What was 4 euros on Amorgos is six on Santorini. In one instance, the difference was 100 per cent. A bottle of Beefeaters on Amorgos was 12 euro. The same size bottle last night on Santorini was 23.90 euros.

Accomodations are also significangtly more expensive.

Santorini is not a poor man’s paradise!

The beauty of Santorini is beyond description. I arrived as the sun set. I was sitting outside this morning when the sun rose. God worked a wonder when He inflicted the volcano eruption on this island some 1,600 years ago.

Enjoy your day!

STUCK ON AMORGOS…..NO FERRY BOAT

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History repeats itself.

Last year I was stranded on Mykonos four extra days. The sea was too choppy. The ferry boats would not venture out.

It is happening again in Amorgos. The ferry boat did not arrive yesterday. Sea too rough. As I write this morning, I have been told it is doubtful the boat will come in today. Perhaps tomorrow.

I minded the inconvenience last year because I did not like Myukonos. I do not mind if I am forced to stay another night on Amorgos, however. Amorgos is one the best places in the world!

The only problem is where do I stay. I lose my apartment today. Eleni says she has a room for me on the third floor. A hike up long steep stairs. At least, I will have a place to sleep.

The funny part of all this is that I only need a ferry boat for a one hour trip. I am returning to Santorini for a few days. Santorini is one hour away.

I had dinner at Mythos again last night. He told me his fisherman said there would be no ferry boat today. The water beyond the bay is too rough.

There ia a boat in the area which gives me concern. The Greek military vessel at the opening to Amorgos’harbor. It is still there. I am sitting outside doing this blog. The monster is directly in my vision.

The vessel is big. I find it intimidating. I keep waiting for a few shells to fall on this small inconsequential island.

I started asking questions yesterday. Turns out the ship is a Greek Coast Guard vessel. I have never seen anything this big in Key West. Most refer to it as a battleship. I doubt it is. However, believe me, it is huge! Even has a big helicopter perched on the rear deck.

There are two versions as why it is here.

Apparently, the Turks flew two planes over Greek soil last week. The Coast Guard vessel is in response to the unauthorized flight. I amn aware Turkey is close by. Not that close, however.

The other version is the boat is part of a training exercise.

The vessel will not leave till friday. It will have sat in the entrance to Amorgos bay for ten days. Many are pissed it is there. Greece is hurting economically. Manuy island people consider it a waste of money for the big boat to sit idle.

Flora stopped by last night before I went out. All dressed up! Lovely! A bright red skirt and black armless top. The colors of Albania. The Albanian flag is red with a big black bird in the center.

Flora and I have become friends. We moved the relationship forward last night. We became Facebook friends.

Before Flora arrived, I was sitting outside on the terrace half asleep. Rita from the other day came by on her bike. To say goodbye to the third American on the island, as she described me. It was nice of her. Her next stop was her garden.

Everyone has a garden on this island. They grow their own vegetables. I suspect they can the foods for the winter.

Canning is a throw back in time. I can recall as a young boy in the late 1930s helping my parents can tomatoes and peaches. Fun, but not easy. Hot work. No air conditioning back then. We lived on the third floor of an apartment building. The top floor. The roof was flat. The tomatoes had to be boiled. Contributed to the heat. Then peeled. Then canned in Bell glass jars. Following which the bottled tomatoes had to be boiled again. The heat and sweat big time.

A full day job. Many jars of tomatoes to be done. We ate pasta at least three times a week. The tomatoes necessary for the sauce.

Last night, a wonderful evening. One of the best. I dined at Mythos.

I decided on lamb chops. Vangelis said no. I have a goat. A whole goat. Cooked it myself. Have the goat. You will enjoy. His food has been so good, I did not argue with him.

A whole goat had been roasted. My plate was overflowing with slices and pieces of goat meat. Some covered in a crispy skin. It was fantastic! Tasted just like the pigs we roasted outdoors for parties in Utica. Great flavor and texture.

After dinner, Vangelis and Suzanna sat with me. It was late. Their work was done. Others were cleaning up. We chatted for well over an hour.

Terrific people! Vangelis is Greek. Suzanna, Albanian. As Flora is. I told Suzanna her name was from the old South in America. I sang the first line of Old, Susanna to her. She knew of it.

They met when Vangelis was on vacation in Albania close to 20 years ago.

Hard working people. Suzanna cooks. Vangelis does everything else. He hosts, takes orders, serves. Their 15 year old daughter works incessantly. Without complaint. These people go seven days a week for three months. The daughter is as good as the father in what she does. The ten year old son serves and cleans tables. Then there is the 13 month old baby. Lovely! She is in someone’s arms all day.

Suzanna said she gets to bed about 3 in the morning and is back in the restaurant at 10. Vangelis gets to bed the same time. However, he has to return at 8 to get things going.

They have to make it in the three summer months. Just as Key West restaurants have to make it in the three month winter season. The difference is that Key West has locals to carry them during the off season. Not on Amorgos. Everything closes down. Most on the island have just enough to sustain themselves.

Vangelis and Suzanna have one of the top restaurants. Perhaps the top. They have operated the restaurant for 13 years. They do not own the property. They lease. They have yet to purchase their own home. A home remains too expensive for them.

Vangelis works another job in the off season. He and his brother operate a remodeling business.

Some one telephoned the ferry boat company. They still do not know if the boat will be running today. They will not know till the afternoon.

I really do not care. The only problem is similar to flying and a snow storm shutting down an airport for a day or two. There are not enough seats available for everyone on the first day’s boat out. I could end up staying on Amorgos for two or three additional days. Wonderful! Though I love Santorini, I will not be unhappy to get the additional time on Amorgos.

Enjoy your day!

GERMANY / HEMINGWAY DAYS

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Here I am sitting on the Greek isle of Amorgos and I will be writing about Germany and Hemingway Days today. Neither has anything to do with each other nor with Amorogos.

The reason the topics are what they are is that I did nothing yesterday. I spent several hours writing next week’s KONK Life column. Then laid around. In the sun, in bed. Period.

The next KONK Life column will be published thursday. The title: Germany…..Biggest Whore House In Europe. It is. Germany has become the sex discount capital of the world.

The thrust of the column has nothing to do with sex per se. It has to do with Germany’s pattern of failing those it initially claimed would be helped. The euro union is an example. All the countries going down the drain economically and socially. Germany pushed the euro union. Promised a new world. Easy money. An end to economic concerns. Fifteen or so years later, Germany is raking in the dollars while other countries are suffering big time.

Prostitution is another example. Germany legalized prostitution in 2002. It was a new day for the ladies of the night. Social acceptance, pensions, medical, etc. Eleven years later, the prostitutes are in dramatically worse shape. Germany on the other hand is thriving from their pain. Big time tax dollars are being collected on prostitution earnings. Germany has become the biggest pimp of all.

The bottom line is Germany is not to be trusted. They sell great up front, but do not produce for anyone but themselves in the end.

Hemingway Days. A big weekend the past few days in Key West. An annual event. Sorry I missed it.

Hemingway lived in Key West 10 years. Wrote some of his best novels there. Key West is proud to have been a part of his life.

Two events I especially enjoy. The Hemingway Look-A-Like Contest and the Bull Run.

Roughly 125 Hemingway look alikes compete to see who looks closest to the original. All white bearded, of course. All wandering around over the weekend in white shirt and pants, with a fire engine red beret on their heads and scarf belt around their waists.

The Bull Run is exciting. Replicated from The Sun Also Rises. The Key West bulls are cardboard machete.

Perhaps, I will be more active today. I do not know.

Enjoy your day!

CHORA

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I visited Chora last night. Also known as hora.

Most Greek isles have a Chora. A community of sorts. Generally, a town. Most are medieval in origin. Go back 1,500 to 2,000 years. They still look the same. Unchanged by time. White buildings, narrow walkways.

Choras were built on hilltops. For protective and defensive purposes. Amorgos’ Chora is on top of a tall mountain. Just over the top. So it could not be seen by ships entering the bay. Way back when, pirates were a problem. By constructing their homes just over the crest, the early Greeks were hopeful their community would not be spotted.

If discovered, the set up of the Chora assisted in its defense. The entrance to the Chora was always a very narrow walkway. The attackers were only able to enter single file or two abreast at the most. Chora’s defenders were better able to protect their homes and families and at the same time do the most damage to invaders.

People still live in Chora. Old and young alike. Businesses have opened. Tiny specialty stores and restaurants.

I took the bus to Chora. A ten minute drive. 1.60 euros each way. A bargain.

The buses are magnificent. Large. Air conditioned. Comfortable. The drivers friendly and adept at driving. They have to be. The road up and down is steep and full of dangerous curves. The drivers carry themselves as if they were Captains on a jet airliner.

I walked the same path as last year. You will recall Chora killed me last year. Steps up. Everything up. It was a horrible trip.

This year, I did it with ease. Surprised even myself. I am in better condition.

I went to the same cafe/restaurant as last year. Along the way, I spotted Maria’s store. Maria who did my nails a couple of days ago. Her store is named Kwati. Sells soaps, oils and some foodstuffs. I was especially taken by pint jars of broccoli in oil and garlic.

I sat outside the cafe and drank. Three gins. They were all big. I was surprised. Even had Tanqueray. I sat there close to three hours.

Marie had mentioned I should try raki psimeni. A Greek drink made with burnt sugar. I did. Sweet. Good.

I cannot tell you the name of the restaurant. It was in Greek. Not an easy language written wise. Letters not arabic.

I have discovered that when I ask someone to spell a Greek word in English, there is difficulty. However most can spell it in Latin. It does help. I took three years of Latin in high school and also served as an altar boy.

Cats are a big deal in Chora, as well as all of Amorgos. They are well liked. Permitted in restaurants and cafes. They are beggars. People constantly feed them. I cannot. I find it repulsive.

Trees. I mentioned yesterday or the day before that there were no trees on Amorgos. There are. In Chora. Tons of them. Why not elsewhere, I do not know.

The evenings have been cold while I have been on Amorgos. Chora was cold by day and even colder by night. The wind on top of the mountain was strong. Could knock you over. You bent with it. Came from every direction. Buildings were no protective help. The wind moved around corners with ease.

I had planned to have dinner in Chora. The cold dissuaded me. I decided to leave.

I screwed up. Got the return trip wrong time wise. My fault. I did not understand the bus driver. Missed the bus. There was a 1 1/2 hour wait for the next one.

The bus stop is just outside Chora. No protection. The wind bellowed. So cold I could have used a winter jacket. And long pants. I was wearing shorts. Fortunately, I found a small bar just at the entrance and got the protection from the wind that I needed.

Enjoy your day!

SCHINOUSSA ISLAND

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I had a terrific breakfast this morning!

You will recall Maria and Nikolas have a garden. They sell vegetables to Amorgos’ restaurants. Maria was especially proud of their tomatoes.

Last night when I returned from Schinoussa Island, Nikolas drove up. He handed me a bag of tomatoes. Twelve plump beauties. I refrigerated them till this morning.

Tomatoes are actually part of the fruit family. So why not have them for breakfast! I sliced away, covered them with olive oil, threw on a little oreganato and salt. Earlier, I had gone to the bakery. I bought a small French loaf of whole wheat bread.

The sun had just come up. I sat outside and enjoyed my breakfast. Absolutely magnificent! The best tasting tomatoes I have ever eaten!

The tomatoes have nothiong to do with Schinoussa Island. They were so good I had to share my pleasure with you.

As sometimes we say in Key West…..I have to get off the rock, I felt like getting off Amorgos yesterday. Decided to visit Schinoussa Island.

The Greek Isles are like the Florida Keysandr the Thousand islands on the St. Lawrence. Many. All sizes, all shapes. Different attractions. You get to them by ferry boat. The ferry boat is the bus line between the smaller islands. I took the 7 a.m. ferry.

A two hour trip. Had to stop Koutonisti Island first. A pleasant trip. I slept most of the way.

Why Schinoussa? The locals are aware I enjoy Amorgos because of its peace and quiet. They told me if I really wanted peace and quiet, I should visit Schinoussa. I took their advice.

Schinoussa’s port was nowhere. I was dropped off where nothing existed. Only three small houses scattered in the distance. A dirt road. I subsequently found out most of the roads are unpaved.

A little more Schinoussa fact wise.

Schinoussa has a total population estimated beytween 120-150 persons. Its size is 2 miles x 2 miles. Much like the size of Key West. It has two cities. Chora, its capital and I cannot remember the name of the other. The other was on the opposite side of the island and had a population of 20. Many beaches. Sand fine, but gray colored. Water magnificent. Blue and clear.

Goats abound. White and black/gray. Another dart in my albino theory! A total of six pensiones on the whole island.

Very few vehicles. Transportation is by pedmobile. You walk. The alternative is to ride a donkey. Many of the natives do. There are few motor vehicles. Generally, they are pick up trucks.

The ferry boat cost 16 euros round trip. $17 American money. That had me sitting in the special lounge class. A comfortable easy chair. Refreshments available for purchase.

I landed. I was standing on Mother Earth. How the hell was I going to get around? By the way, I was the only one who got off the boat at Schinoussa.

A beat up pick up truick appeared out of nowhere. A man offered me a ride. He spoke excellent English. Turned out he owned one of the six pensiones on the island. His game was to pick up a tourist such as myself and show him his place. Grispos Villas.

Grispos Villas was lovely! Relatively new, great rooms and balconies overlooking the Aegean Sea. A magnificednt beach. A restaurant to boot. There are only four on the island.

The beaches were different from others I have recently seen. There were trees. Amorgos has no trees. Only large bushes and not many of them. Schinoussa was loaded with trees. The beaches reminded me of the ones in Tampa/St. Petersburg. A wide beach backed by trees. The trees were low overhanging and provided excellent shelter from the sun.

Grispos was the name of the man who picked me up at the port, the owner of Grispos Villas. He wanted to drive me around the island. I said no, let me walk. It was impossible to get lost. The island was relatively flat.

I was walking along a dirt road running parallel to the beach when another pick up truck came by and stopped. This one was really old. Like maybe 30 years. The driver was equally old. I should not say that as I am 78. He probably was younger. However his years in the sun had weathered, bronzed and wrinkled his face. As well as his vehicle.

His name was Dion.

He offered me a ride. I took it. By this time, I was tired from the sun and dusty. Remember, most of the roads are dirt.

Dion worked the land and kept goasts and mules. He had both colored goats. One of the whites was big. Not an albino, of course.

He took me to Chora. Chora is the island’s capital.

Every Greek isle has a Chora. It is the old town. The oldest on an island. Generally going back 1,500 years. Not this Chora. Looked relatively new compared to the others I had seen. It was.

This Chora was only one street long. It was constructed after 1800. Prior to 1800, no one lived on Schinoussa. For some reason I could not determine, a small group settled the island at that time. They came from Amorgos. Would you believe! No 1,500 years for this Chora. Probably less than 200 years.

I took the ferry back later in the afternoon. Arrived in Amorgos at six.

Schinoussa was quiet and peaceful. More quiet than Amorgos. Next year, I plan on spending a week on Schinoussa. Most of the time will be spent contemplating my navel.

A big military vessel came in last night. A Greek Navy ship. It is sitting just inside the entrance to the bay.

I am not a ship expert. Especially a military one. The ship had to be bigger than a cruiser or destroyer. Not as large as a carrier.

Very ominous. Created a bit of fear in me. I could understand how when we have trouble with a foreign country, we send a carrier to sit off its shore. Has to scare the hell out of those who see it!

Amorgos was loaded with sailors last night. All in deress whites.

My friend Terri White. She returns to New York City for an engagement on July 31. From a park bench to Park Ave.

Terri will be appearing at the 54 Below Broadway Night Club. If you are in New York at the time, watch Terri perform. She is the best!

Tonight, dinner in Chora. I am going to visit Maria at her store before.

Enjoy your day!

NO ALBINO ANYTHING ON AMORGOS

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It’s called living and learning!

I saw a big white goat a few days ago. I assumed it was an albino goat and reported it as such.

Wednesday, I rented a car to drive the island exploring. As I came around a very tight curve, what do I behold on the road walking towards me? Two white goats! There cannot be three albino goats on this small island. It would be like finding three albino chickens in Key West.

Thursday, I was walking one of the many dirt paths on Amorgos. I saw a pure white mule. Would you believe!

An albino mule?

This time I was a bit cautious. I discussed the mule and goats with some friends afterwards. There are many white mules on Amorgos. Why white, I do not know. But here they are! There are also many white goats.

Obviously an albino expert I am not!

While driving around Wednesday, I found a lovely small beach. A big cove. About fifty bathers. There was a small shack. Hamburgers, beers, and the like. Enjoyed a hamburger and beer and took in the scene.

My car was parked in a line of cars. The lot was not that full when I arrived. Upon leaving, it was car to car.

When I tunred into my car to get in, there was this lovely woman. Standing between her car and mine. Bare ass! She was changing into her bathing suit and I came upon her at the right moment.

I smiled. She smiled. I turned my back and walked away. A gentleman am I. What more could I see anyhow? I had seen it all.

I gave her a few moments and returned. She was just walking away. Smiled again and said something in Greek which I assume was thank you.

Another port concert Wednesday night. I ate at Mythos so I could watch. Terrific! Many violins. Violins are big musical instruments in Greece. A 50ish stout woman was singing. Turns out she has had a successful career as a singer. I enjoyed the show! Traditional Greek music. It had the Greek beat. People jumping up and dancing. All ages.

I met Maria thursday. She gave me a manicure and pedicure. Turns out her young 20s son was one of the featured violin performers the night before.

My finger nails and toe nails were a disaster. Three plus weeks. I could find no clippers to buy. Finally discovered there was a woman in Chora who gave mmanicures and pedicures. Even better, she would come to your hotel/apartment.

I tracked her down. The lady was Maria.

We got together yesterday afternoon at my apartment. We enjoyed each other’s company tremendously. Maria has a terrific sense of humor. Aided of course by the three gins we each consumed during the process.

I still have all my toes and fingers!

Maria is 49, married 23 years and lives full time on Amorgos. She resides in the old town. Chora. She also has a place of business in Chora to do manicures and pedicures. She is professional at her work.

Maria and her husband also have side businesses.

Katwi is the name of their Chora store. They make special soaps containing olive oil, creams with olive oil, marmaledes from their own garden fruits, and a traditional Greek drink called raki psimeni. The raki is made with burnt sugar. I look forward to tasting it.

Maria and her husband are multi-faceted. They also raise chickens and sell them to the local restaurants. In addition, till recently a carpentry business. The building where they did the work burned down. No insurance. Very few have insurance for anything on this small island.

The fire has created many problems. They still owe the bank on the mortgage. I felt sorry for them. She described the situation as having to start all over again.

We talked about business generally. Tourism is everything. Come September, there is no more money to be made till next summer. Business has been down not only on Amorgos, but in all of Greece. Her estimate is 30 per cent. She envisons hard days ahead.

Her husband’s name is Nikolas. I met him when he came to pick her up. A nice guy. Unfortunately, we were not able to communicate. He spoke no English and I no greek.

Maria was one of the persons who told me there are white mules all over Amorogos. I got into the lamb chop scenario with her, also. I am not conviced yet that the lamb is lamb. She told me I was correct. The lamb is really goat.

I knew I was right! Though it tastes as good as the real stuff. In fact, I had “lamb” chops for dinner last night.

I am hoping to have lunch today with Spyros. I enjoy talking with him. He is a knowledgeable businessman and familiar with Greek politics.

Enjoy your day!