FLORA’S STORY

 
A true to life tale reflecting on how well most of us have it. If you do not agree, complain not. For if you do, Flora’s story will put you to shame.
 
Who is Flora?
 
She is the cleaning lady at the pensione I am staying in on Amorgos. She cleans my apartment and every other apartment in the complex once a day. I do not know the exact number of apartments. The building is four stories high and wide, built into a mountain.
 
She cleans toilets, washes the floors, changes the sheets and otherwise keeps each apartment neat and tidy. Seven days a week. Eight to nine hours day. For three straight months. Not for $25 an hour. For 4 euros an hour. Six dollars American money.
 
Floras speaks excellent English. Also, Albanian and Italian.
 
Flora resides in Albania. She has lived in Albania all her life. She is 41 years old. Single, never married.
 
Albania is a small country in southeastern Europe. Greece borders Albania to the south.
 
Albania has an interesting history.
 
Until 1991, Albania was socialistic. A Communist nation. Being small, it thought it needed the protection of a great power. First, it was in a protectorate of China. Then Russia and Yugoslavia. Following the fall of Communist Russia, Albania became a democracy. A parliamentary democracy.
 
The language is Albanian. The country is considered a top ten place for visitors.
 
Religion is a strange combination. Fifty seven per cent are Muslim, seventeen per cent Christian. Only forty per cent pay attention to their religion, however. Albania is ranked the 13th least religious country in the world.
 
Russia is primarily responsible for the lack of religious fervor. When Russia took over Albania following World War II, it banned religion. All religion. As a result, Albania acquired the distinction of being the world’s first atheist state.
 
Today’s Muslims and Christians get along well. Tranquility exists between them. Many Muslims are Muslims only because their ancestors became Muslims during the 500 years Turkey controlled Albania. Muslims and Christians intermarry. No problem. Muslim husbands neither dominate nor mistreat their wives as in most other Muslim countries. The partners to the marriage are equal and treat each other accordingly.
 
When Russia initially took over Albania, the illiteracy rate was 85 per cent. Russia initiated immediate steps to rectify the problem. Within 12 years, the rate was corrected dramatically. Today, 98.7 per cent of the people are literate.
 
Health care is a problem in today’s Albania. A national health program does not exist. Under Russia’s domination, everyone had health care. Today few. If a person has not money to pay, doctors and hospitals will not provide treatment.
 
There is very little HIV-AIDS in Albania. Less than 100 cases.
 
I thought a little Albanian background would be helpful in understanding Flora’s life.
 
Now to Flora.
 
Flora grew up under the Communist system. Her father died when she was seven years old. As indicated, Russia made Albanians literate. Education was important.
 
Flora was a good student. Russia would look at a student’s record and decide what that student would be in later life. Doctor, lawyer or Indian Chief, so to speak. It was determined when Flora was 10 years old that her talents were best accommodated if she became either a teacher or nurse. Teaching became the choice.
 
High school in Albania is eight years. At age 18, Flora graduated. High school can be described as a professional school. Flora at 18 upon graduation from high school was qualified to be a teacher. She immediately was assigned to a school and started teaching.
 
She continued her education at the university level. Her college degree did not affect her earnings significantly. She earned just a bit more after acquiring her degree. Money was not an issue for her. It was the security of the job. Albanians are put into a mold and can expect job security throughout their lives. Money, no.
 
Flora teaches third class. Notice, not grade. Our grades are their classes.
 
Russia’s drive to eliminate illiteracy obviously helped Flora. Without it, she would not have acquired an education nor have become a teacher.
 
Without a father, Flora has been her own decision maker in life.
 
Flora lived under Communism her first 20 years. She says Communism was no good. She and her family, everyone, did not have enough food or clothes. Things have been considerably better under a democratic form of government.
 
Flora presently earns 300 euros a month as a teacher. Her salary continues through the three summer months when school is closed. Though she says it is not enough, she considers herself middle class. I suspect because she is a teacher.
 
Twelve years ago, she bought a house. A small one. One bedroom, a small kitchen, a living room area, and a very small bathroom. No tub. Just a shower. She borrowed money from friends to purchase the home. The mortgage was recently paid in full. She now owns her home free and clear.
 
She related it was not easy to make the mortgage payments. Her first year as a homeowner, she was earning only 190 euros a month teaching. The house was important to her and she sacrificed. She claims, and I believe her, that she ate only beans  for a whole year. She could not purchase even a quart of milk.
 
She has been working summers to help pay off the house. Now that the house is paid, she works summers to renovate it. New windows, new doors and the like.
 
Her home is everything to her. She describes it as “…..the most beautiful place in the world.” She says, “I find peace in  my house.”
 
Simplicity best describes the previous paragraph. It also reflects well on the state of her soul.
 
She is glad to have summer employment on Amorgos. It is hard work as she describes it, however. She works long days. Earns four euros an hour. Her employer pays half her rent. Flora does not live in the pensione complex. She rents a room elsewhere. She describes it as dingy. But it works for her.
 
Her share of the rent is 90 euros a month. She also pays the utility bills. Her employer provides her with lunch each day. That is all Flora eats. She buys no other food. She does not go out after work. She saves every penny. Her sole source of enjoyment is viewing the ocean. She claims in the absence from her home, it gives her peace.
 
Flora is obviously on a mission. Her home. To put together enough monies for its renovation.
 
Flora’s widowed mother is 76. She lives with Flora. They share the same bed.
 
Medical is a major concern. Flora puts some money aside to pay doctor and hospital bills in the event her mother becomes ill. As she put it, “…..if you have no money, you die.” No medical attention is available without money up front.
 
Interestingly, Albania provides her mother with a pension. Sixty euros a month. Ten of those euros are retained by the government to cover the mother’s prescription drugs. Her mom has a bad heart.
 
She would like a husband. She stated it in no uncertain terms. “I want a husband!”
 
I was curious as to what she was looking for in a man. She is 41 and still unmarried. By the way, Flora is an extremely beautiful woman. Looks 30. Thin. The face of an angel. Magnificent eyes.
 
Flora says money is not important in her selection of a husband. She prefers “…..a good boy…..a good person…..one who works.”
 
Do you go out evenings and try to meet a man. “No, no!”, she responded. She never goes out evenings. I am not sure if it was because she did not want to be considered a bad girl or could not afford it. Her sole out of the house activity besides teaching was coffee in the afternoon with female friends.
 
Her best friend is a 20 year old niece.

I inquired what she liked to do best for pleasure. Dance was her response. If you do not go out evenings, how do you dance? At parties. How often do you attend parties. Two times a year. Teacher parties.
 
Teaching gives her the next best pleasure. Especially students who may be handicapped in some fashion. She presently has a boy who cannot hear well, but has the ability to speak. She has another boy who is mentally slow. She works extra time with them both.
 
Flora claims there is a benefit to her summer jobs. She gets to travel, to see the world. Last year, it was Italy. This year Amorgos. She considers Amorgos “…..a wonderful place.” She believes that people on Amorgos live better than she does in Albania.
 
Her health is good. She tries to take care of herself. There is no money for medical attention were she to get sick. I asked about yearly check ups, she laughed. What check ups?
 
I asked this simple woman what she would like to have that she does not. Her answer came quick. “A car!” She “…..dreams to have one.” She walks everywhere, even to work. If the trip is too far, there are buses. Small vans.
 
I asked about vacations. She responded, “For poor people winter is all year, there is no summer.”
 
The cleaning job is the most difficult she has had. She has to move swiftly to get all the rooms cleaned. The hours are long. She is tired all the time.
 
I was curious how she got to Amorgos from Albania. First a 16 hour bus ride and then a big ship. The trip took three days. Not bad, she said.
 
Besides a car, what else would make her happy? To only work one job with more pay. She went on to point out that the money here in Amorgos was better than her previous summer employment in Albania. In her home country, she worked every day in the summers for three months from six in the morning to midnight. For 150 euros a month!
 
Teaching hours are not bad. She teaches four hours in the morning. Then is expected to spend three hours at home in the afternoon preparing for the next day. However, she has been teaching third grade for over 20 years and so preparation does not consume that much time.
 
She told me prices in Albania were no different than on Amorgos.
 
She neither drinks nor smokes, except for an occasional wine at those two teacher parties a year.
 
Her English is self taught. She wanted to learn. Started with children’s books and worked her way up. She speaks and writes the language well.
 
Her home town is called Rubik. She tells me it is large. Four thousand people.
 
Such is Flora’s story. She has less and wants more. A universal desire. She is working toward her goals. She will attain most of them, if not all. I wish her a car, a husband, and good health at the very least.
 
Americans as a whole have more than most of their brethren world wide. Flora is an example. We complain. Some of us do have less than others. Some very little.
 
In the overall picture of things, Flora makes up for less with hard work. There are no social agencies, welfare, governmental help or Stephanie Kaples for her. She continues without complaint. 
 
We could learn from her.

THE BREEZE AND I…..

The wind is fantastic! Never stops blowing! Strong! Last night bent me over when hitting me from behind. Pushed me back when I was walking into it.

I have never felt wind this strong. The exception of course would be a hurricane. However, who goes out in a hurricane!

The locals tell me the wind comes in three day cycles. Last night was the fifth day in a row. Apparently no one told the wind its three days were up.

Yet, it is interesting. No one lets it inhibit their activities. The only change is in attire. You dress for it. The wind is cold. A sweatshirt for me.

My landlord Elini changed the Wi Fi system. Her previous one sucked. Of little use. Low frequency/power. The system has been upgraded. Yesterday and today I have been able to do the blog from my kitchen table. No need to wait till 10 for the internet store to open.

I intend to continue visiting and chatting with Spyros, however.

I just heard a strange noise. I am working with the door open. Two goats! Yesterday the albino. Today, what appear to be a father and child. Two weeks no goats where I am living. All of a sudden, they are my neighbors.

They looked at me with sad eyes. I thought they might be hungry. Ran in and got some bread. They would not eat it. What do I know? A goat expert I am not.

Yesterday morning was easy. I sat on the terrace and read. Went for a swim. Back to reading. I love it!

Lunched in. Made myself a sandwich. Then napped. Napping a lot.

The goats are back. Baying. Is that the proper word? They are eating the greenery around the terrace. Bread no, shrubbery yes.

Flora and I had coffee together at the end of her work day. I wanted her to read Flora’s Story. It will be available in the Florida keys in this week’s KONK Life which comes out tomorrow. I have decided to run Flora’s Story as my blog for tomorrow, also. For those outside the keys who might be interested.

This blog is far reaching. The last statistics I saw indicated in was being viewed in 49 countries. Amazing! An example is a woman who I heard from today. She lives in Ireland.

Yesterday, I wrote about having observed two Greek women rolling their own cigarettes. Apparently rolling your own is not uncommon in Ireland. Cost being the reason. Cigarettes are cheaper that way. I can understand. Cigarettes have gotten very expensive in the United States. Eight to $13 a pack depending where you are. Cost alone should be enough make smokers give it up!

Flora enjoyed the article. She wants me to mail a hard copy to her at her home in Albania.

Walked to the other side of the bay in the evening. In the dark of the night.

The Le Grand Bleu Restaurant was showing the Le Grand Bleu movie. Outside. About 40 people sitting around watching. I stopped for a while.

Le Grand Bleu is a French film that was made in English with French subtitles. Last night’s version was in French with English subtitles.

It was after 10. I had not eaten since my sandwich at lunch. I was hungry. Stopped at Mythos. Spaghetti bolognese. The same taste and texture as a few evenings earlier. Good!

Nothing like a pasta filled stomach when going to bed!

Vangelis’ wife’s name is Susanna. Learned it for the first time last night. A strange name for a Greek. Is Susanna from the deep South? She speaks excellent English. I will have to chat with her to learn from whence she comes. She is at the restaurant all the time. The cook. A very good one.

Met Claudia yesterday. Two times. First in the morning when I was coming out of the water after my swim. Then last night when I was walking around.

Fate?

Claudia is Italian. From Verona. Thirtyish. Thin. All Italinas are thin. Tall. Taller than me. She had to be around 6′ 3″. Spoke excellent English. More than bilingual. She speaks several languages fluently. She has spent a significant amount of time working in Austria. I never got around to learning what her work was.

Enjoy your day!

RICHARD BRANSON?

You will recall I mentioned two or three exceptionally lovely women who appeared to be hearing and/or speaking impaired. Their beauty was exceptional. Model types. They communicated via sign language.

I initially saw the ladies at Mythos. I have seen them there several times since. They are always with a man. The same man. He looked familiar. I could not place him. Last night, it dawned on me. He appeared to be Richard Branson! CEO/major owner of Virgin Airlines and a multitude off other international corporations.

Am I correct? I do not know. I will ask Vangelis and let you know. It looks like him. The sun bronzed face, golden hair and bright smile. If you are familiar with Branson’s background, you are aware he has been a huge supporter world wide of the hearing and speaking impaired. So it fits.

Yesterday was another slow day. I am not complaining. I enjoy them. My favorite activity has always been doing nothing. I never seemed to have time to do it.

I spent a couple of hours at a water front café sipping two freddo cappucinos. Cold cappuccinos. I was screwing around on my computer at the same time. Reading an Amazon Kindle book. London. I was half way through it. Somehow, I lost London and another book I have not yet read. I could not get them back. What to do now?

When I returned to my apartment, I decided to go into the water. The lovely Aegean Sea. Water clear blue. It was cold! Once my body adjusted, refreshing replaced cold.

There are some serious swimmers visiting and living on this island. Mostly middle aged and older. They swim far out and for a long time. I envy them. Out of my league!

Body shapes here on Amorgos are the same as in the United States. All sizes and shapes. It is not uncommon to see men and women with bellies. So much different from Italy. Everyone was thin in Italy!

The Greeks are warmer than the Italians, however. They are welcoming and open armed. Whereas, Italians avoided even eye contact.

Dinner at Mythos again last night. Why not, the restaurant is a winner. I enjoyed a large plate of smelts. Small tiny ones. Two to 2 1/2 inches. Fried crispy. My grandmother and mother would have been proud of me.

Vangelis had a Greek group playing at Mythos last night. Greek music. It must have been outstanding. Mostly Greeks in the audience. The group was given huge applause at the conclusion of each number.

Saw something unusual. Two women at differnet tables, each rolling their cigarettes. Not joints. For real tobacco. I could smell nothing unusual. Both Greek. I wondered why a person would want to roll their own when they can buy them ready made?

I prod. Ask questions. Gently, of course. It is hard this year to get people to open up about Greek politics. Most appear to be looking over their shoulders as they talk with me.

Enjoy your day!

ALBINO GOAT

Who would have thought goats would be a major topic on this trip?

Just after sunrise this morning, I was sitting outside on the terrace watching the water and enjoying a cup of tea. Along came this big white animal. It was on a rope leash. A young teenager holding onto the rope leash.

The animal was as big as a German shepherd. Looked like a goat. Especially the head, horns and face. However, the only goats I have seen on Amorgos have been small and brown/black. A sheep? No, the hair was different.

I asked the young man to stop. A goat? Yes. That is all I got out of the him. He appeared busy and moved right along.

I share with you that an albino goat resides on Amorgos. I found the fact interesting. How many of us has ever seen an albino goat?

It is amazing. Some days are full and busy, others slow and easy. Yesterday was a slow and easy day. I took things as they came. Not much came!

Between the KONK Life column and yesterday’s blog, I was at the computer six hours. A long time. Especially for one on vacation. No time to play tourist.

It was 3 when I finished. I stopped at Mythos for lunch. A dako salad. Terrific again! Bean bread, tomatoes and feta cheese covered in a light olive oil. Plus, two draft beers. I do not know what has gotten into me. I have always hated beer. Yet this trip, I am occasionally having one. Or, two.

Then to home and bed. Took a long nap.

It was close to 10 when I woke. The night/day was over for me. Or, so I thought.

A knock on the door. Some friends asked if I had eaten. No. Come on with us. We have not either.

At 11 last night I sat down to a full meal. Not my normal course of conduct. I enjoyed a gin first. When we were finished, the owner sent us a round of drinks as a courtesy. He was glad to have had our business. I received a double gin on the rocks. Just what I wanted! Not wishing to be impolite, I took my time and got it down.

I slept well.

Thursday’s KONK Life article is about an Albanian cleaning lady named Flora. The column is titled Flora’s Life. A comment by Flora is reflective of her life: “For poor people winter is all year, there is no summer.”

Enjoy your day!

MONASTERY OF PANGIA HOZOVIOTISSA

Spent some time yesterday chatting with Spyros. Turns out he is a prominent person in Katapola. Besides his computer/internet skills, he is Secretary of what I would describe as the local Chamber of Commerce. Called here the Association of Katapolis’ Businesses.

An interesting conversation. We covered my reaction to Katapolis, its businesses and people. All favorable. We also covered Greek politics. A today hotbed.

I had no plans for the afternoon. A stupid sudden urge hit me. Go back and revisit the Monastery from last year. The Monastery of Pangia Hozoviotissa. It was a killer walk uphill last year. I made it. I swore however, never again. I did not keep my word.

A short bus ride and I was there at the foot of the hill. Let me put everything in perspective. The Monastery was built into the side of a cliff. Back around 1100 A.D., some King was sitting on the beach and an icon of the Blessed Virgin washed up on shore at his feet. He took it as a sign from Above. He had this magnificent I do not know how it was conctructed monastery built into the side of the hill to honor the Blessed Virgin and God.

For a normal person, the walk up takes about 15 minutes. For me, it took 30 yesterday. Not bad. I went slow. People passed me. I did not care. The steps/path was a narrow walk way winding around the cliff. I made it and did not feel as bad as last year. In fact, I felt nothing adverse. God was on my side! The wind, also. A strong wind was at my back.

Nothing inside had changed in a year, except for the Monk talking with me. A different one. He spoke English. Wanted to know where I was from. Key West. He knew of Key West. A bad place. People take their clothes off. I jokingly asked if he had been watching Fantasy Fest on the internet.

He was curious as to what I did. I explained Key West Lou to him.

There is a book guests are asked to sign. I had signed it as Louis Petrone. Several guests had signed after me. He said you must sign as Key West Lou. He then signed my name for me as Key West Lou with the date.

I am immortalized as Key West Lou in a religious place!

Dinner last night was at a new restaurant. Rita, the American living on Amorgos, had suggested I try the Corner Restaurant. I did. Good meal! No, a great meal! Steamed greens in oil and bruschette to start. Lamb chops as the main. These were for real. The best yet. More than I could eat.

I have been working at my KONK Life column since 8:30 this morning. Took me five hours. A bit long. However that is the time that was required to tell the story. It will be published next Thursday. The title is Flora’s Story.

So much for yesterday and this morning.

Enjoy your Sunday!

OTHER SIDE OF THE BAY

Yesterday I walked around to the other side of the bay. A big distance!

I had already walked a couple of times the same route. However, I stopped where the concrete roadway ended. At the end of the line were two junk cars and a dirt path. The end of the civilized world for me.

From where I sit on my terrace, I can see directly to the other side the bay. What I see is a Church of sorts. All of one inch high to my vision because of the distance. There is also a minimal scattering of homes. There had to be a way to get to the Church and homes beyond the junk cars and concrete road.

There was. I found it. Three hundred feet up the dirt path was a narrow paved road. I followed the road to the Church. Unfortunately, it was locked. That is the second Church I have tried to enter on Amorgos that was closed. The Last Supper Church in Milan said I had to leave minutes after I arrived. The Church was closing. Amoros’ two churches closed. I am never going to be redeemed!

Later in the evening., I was discussing the trip with some neighbors. We were trying to determine how far across the Church was. How wide the bay. Someone mentioned it was farther than Tiger Woods could drive. The consensus was at least 2 miles.

The other side of the bay was interesting. Beautiful goes without saying. Besides the tiny Church, there was a taverna. A tavern in English. Also scattered homes, small coves, a lot of olive trees, and a man on a donkey. A donkey being the reliable and cheapest mode of travel on the island.

A big walk for me! Definitely at least 3 miles. Probably more.

When I returned to my rooms, I was exhausted. Nap time. When I woke, it was too late to catch the bus to Chora.

I was chatting with my neighbors and we decided to have a party on my terrace. The biggest spot in the complex.

We were American, French, Australian, and English. We chipped in and had take out. Take out exists everywhere.

The menu was vine leaves stuffed with rice and gyros. Pork and lamb. Followed by a series of Greek cakes. Plus alcohol, of course. Wine, beer, and gin.

A good time!

I only spent two nights in Athens. Five in Santorini. My total time on Amorgos will be a bit longer than three weeks. What I am about to convey, I did not notice in Athens or Santorini. The people are not the same as last year. The exuberance is gone. People are quiet. They will speak when spoken to. However, they are not as engaging as last year.

Who knows.

Spyros has become a friend. The internet guru who owns the internet store I am working from. He commented this morning that he did not see me last night. The cafe area/nightlife in Kapatola is small. An absence easy to note. I am glad Sypyos missed me.

Enjoy your day!

AMORGOS THE KEY WEST OF GREECE

Amorgos is the Key West of Greece.

It is not the night life that compels that judgment. There is no night life on Amorgos. It is the laid back atmosphere that Key West is so famous for. The locals here have the same laid back attitude.

The observation was arrived at last night while I was having dinner at Mythos.

The view from Mythos suggested a further similarity. The feeling, not the actual eye view itself. The same feeling you get at the Reach Restaurant’s back porch and the Pier House deck.

The wind is back. Blew last night. It was a cold wind. I had to wear a sweatshirt. This morning the wind is even stronger. You can hear it whistling. There are small whitecaps all over. The sun keeps you warm by day. A t-shirt suffices. The nights are another story.

Tonight, I intend to visit Chora. The oldest city on Amorgos. There is a Chora on every Greek island. Always the oldest town. Always on top of a hill. Always old white buildings. Always with Greek seniors sitting in front of their tiny white houses dressed in black.

The top of the mountain means cold. Colder. Definitely a sweatshirt or jacket.

I did Chora last year. The steps are steep and too many. Up, up and away! For me, it was no fun. We shall see if I can handle it better this year. My plan is to have dinner somewhere in Chora.

I carried through yesterday morning on my plan to walk immediately on arising. Forty five whole minutes. Up and down, some steep steps included. I thought I would try for a whole hour this morning.

Good luck! I never made it out of bed!

My computer system is now generally working. No thanks to Verizon. It still goes in and out. I am told the problem is with Vodaphone. Vodaphone is Verizon’s partner in Europe. The Verizon signal is strong. I have to get Verizon first. The Vodaphone signal weak. I cannot understand.

I sat and talked with Flora yesterday afternoon. The cleaning lady. Her story is fantastic! Guaranteed you will enjoy. I will do it as a blog one morning soon. We in the United States do not know how good we have it. Even the least of our citizens are in a better place than Albanians.

Cats have never been a favorite of mine. One appears to have adopted me yesterday.

All of a sudden, there was a cat curled up under one of the terrace chairs. Escaping the sun. I said get out. The cat apparently did not understand English. The cat stayed with me the rest of the afternoon. Later, I went inside to nap. I leave the door open so the ocean breeze runs in and cools the apartment. I forgot about the cat. No, the cat did not come in. However, when I woke the cat was laid out sleeping in front of the door stoop.

My visitor was nowhere to be seen this morning. I have a feeling he/she will be there when I return in a couple of hours.

My choices were twofold for dinner last night. Fried smelts at Dimitris’ or grilled vegetables at Mythos. Mythos won out. I wanted a drink. Dimitris has no hard liquor. Mythos has gin.

Grilled vegetables were an appetizer. My main course was fried calamari. Not like in the United States! Here like big pieces of octopus. Not what I wanted. I was hoping small breaded pieces as in the States. Still good, however. My problem was vision. Big pieces of head, tentacles and body. Affected my enjoyment.

My pants are staying up. I am not sure why. Either I lost weight or gained. At first, I thought lost. Now I am not sure. I am not drinking that much. Eating big time, however. Whatever, I no longer worry about losing my drawers.

Enjoy your day!

SHEEP AND YACHTS REVISITED

What a vacation!

Yesterday, I explored. Took the bus to Aigiali. The bus was expensive this time. 2.5 euros each way. A bargain! I was the only one on the bus both ways.

Aigiali was one of the earliest settlements on Amorgos. Came into being around 500 B.C. A beach town. Old, yet more modern than Kapatola. I spent a couple of hours walking around. Sat at a couple of outdoor cafes talking with the natives.

I learned a lot. Discovered I was wrong regarding some things.

I have been of the opinion that lamb was really goat when served in restaurants. The underlying reason being that I have seen hundreds of goats, but not one sheep.

Turns out I have not visited the right places.

The reason I have been seeing goats all over the place is that they are not penned in. They are permitted to roam freely. Sheep on the other hand are penned/fenced in. Sheep have a value and cannot be permitted to wander off.

I have yet to see a sheep. However, I believe the gentlemen who told me about them. If it is advertised as lamb, it generally is lamb I was told. They were a bit offended to think I thought a Greek might pass off goat as lamb.

I was wrong. We live and learn.

Dined again last night at Mythos. Enjoyed a special Greek lamb dish. The owner Vangelis insisted I order it. Was it lamb? I think so. However, I do not know if I ever will be certain.

I enjoyed the dako salad again. Bean bread, diced tomatoes, and crumbled feta covered with a light olive oil. Just as tasty as the night before.

Drank cappuccinos with some locals afterwards. The yacht issue came up. There seems to be a yacht every evening in port. The real big ones. Each evening a different one. Drugs, I inquired. Learned something new again. I was told the economy is very bad in Turkey. So, what is new? Perhaps the worst ever.

Yacht rentals are big business in the summer months. People do not have the cash flow they once did. The yachts were not renting. The rental price dropped dramatically in the search for business. It worked. People are now renting yachts and their crews for their summer vacation. Cheap. Offers a different vacation at a cut rate price.

So much for my druggie thought.

The Greek Isles are not like Key West. Key West is flat. Here every island has several high mountains. Most taller than Santorini’s volcano that I could not climb. The tops of the mountains are unusual. They are huge gray rock formations. Comparable to the top of a glacier covered Alp. Rock instead of ice.

The locals are always trying to figure out a way to attract tourists. That is their econmy. Same as with Key West.

A few years ago someone came up with the idea of rock climbing. Put the mountain tops to good use. Rock climbing is now big time.

I was sitting in a bar when the issue came up. The owner showed me a video of rock climbing on Amorgos. Real big time! Scary! Definitely not for me.

The wind came back last night. Cold! Cold this morning when I walked. If I have been told correctly, last night began another three day phase of cold wind over the island.

Two ladies and a little girl showed up at my apartment this morning. Amwericans. They heard there was another American on the island and wanted to meet me. We had coffee and chatted a while. We are going to become good friends.

Rita is formerly from Los Angeles. She and her husband live on Amorgos full time. Rita runs a dress shop here in Katapola. Her husband is a contractor.

Jean was with Rita. Cousins. Jean brought along her young granddaughter Sofia.

Jean is a physician’s assistant in urology at the Veteran’s Hospital in Washington, DC. She is visiting. Her husband is an attorney. A Syracuse law graduate, also. Once an unsure Catholic, he now is a Deacon. Very much into his religious work and the Catholic Church. I told Rita I had deep concerns about the path the Catholic Church has been taking. She says her husband would enjoy talking with me. And I said, I with him. We exchanged e mails.

Enjoy your day!

TOILET PAPER SAGA

Before I get into the down and dirty, let me tell you how happy I am! No, I did not get married nor did I meet a lovely new woman. My data port connection is talking to my computers! Took two years. A shame.

I blame Verizon. I go into their Key West store and all the staff really do is sell. They know from nothing. They make like they do, however. Even Verizon’s alleged telephone professional staff is wanting.

I am on a little island called Amorgos in Greece. I keep saying the island is a hundred years behind the times. It is. On this tiny out of the way place, I discovered Spyros. Spyros Tsimelas. He lives on Amorgos all year long. He operates a small five computer internet store. The only game in town. I have been arriving at 10 every morning when he opens to do my blog and take care of other matters.

We got to talking about my problem. He asked to take a look at my equipment. Said he enjoyed working things out. Twenty four hours later, it all works. He figured out the two major problems and corrected them. He made a couple of other adjustments.

I label him a great man! He succeeded in less than 24 hours where Verizon failed over 2 years!

His bill was 15 euros. I said no way. I gave him 50. He was reluctant to take it. He finally did. Things are not valued as highly on Amorgos as back in the States.

Toilet paper has recently been in the news. Venezuela has a shortage. A real problem. They use 125 million rolls a month. They are coming up 40 million short. People are without. They are having to make do in other ways. It took one woman two weeks to find one roll of toilet paper she could buy.

Toilet paper on Amorgos is a problem, also! Though not in the same way as Venezuela.

I went into the men’s room at Mythos’ restaurant yesterday. Over the toilet was a sign: DO NOT THROW TOILET PAPER IN TOILETTE. Back at Eleni’s pension where I am staying, Eleni herself told me not to flush the toilet paper down the toilet.

There is a waste basket next to a toilet. The directions everywhere are to place the used toilet paper in the basket.

I suspect the problem has to do with the overall antiquated sewage system on the island.

There are some things I cannot do. Man has only one orifice requiring the use of toilet paper. I could not, I repeat, I could not, open the waste basket and drop my used toilet paper on top of the other tainted toilet paper. Gross!

Instead, I do it the usual way. I flush it down the toilet. If a disaster occurs or I am caught, I will say I did not see the sign, I forgot, I did not know, or what have you.

We all have limitations.

My yesterday was pleasant. I am doing basically nothing every day. Floating along.

I enjoyed lunch at a cafe on the port. Drank an ouzo afterwards. The view was spectacular. Magnificent probably a better description. The mountains, the clouds below the top of some, the white houses with blue trim, a blue sky, and water equally blue. I enjoyed!

Took a walk. Not 3 miles or anything close. About one mile. That was all I felt like doing. Then it was a nap for me. A two hour one.

Flora has come in to my life. She is the cleaning lady at Eleni’s where I am staying. She saw my clean but unpressed clothes on the couch. Maria washed them one last time, but could not get the ironing in. I have been wearing shirts and shorts out of the wash. Crushed also in the suitcase from the trip from Santorini to Amorgos. Wrinkled is not an apt description. Worse.

Flora said she would be happy to iron. She needed the extra money. Go to it, I said. I told her I was going to bed for a nap. Wake me when you are finished.

I woke two hours later. She was still at it. Finally, finished. Total time 2 1/2 hours.

We had made no deal as to how much. I handed her 20 euros. $30 American money. She said too much. I said, no. Keep it. She said no, again. Finally, she relented. Her eyes were tear filled as she did. Turns out Flora is from Albania. She is a college educated woman. 41. Teaches school. Single. Owns a home. She has a mortgage. Her teaching earnings are 300 euros a month. $400 American money. She does not get paid while not working. So she came to Amorgos for summer work. Ended up as the cleaning lady at Eleni’s. She is happy to have the job.

With the tears starting to slide out of her eyes, she said you have no idea how much money this is to me. My teacher salary amounts to 10 euros a day. Twenty euros represents two days’ pay. You have given me two days’ pay for 2 1/2 hours work.

Sometimes we do not know how good we have it.

Dinner was at Sunset. Mythos. I enjoyed the finest meal I have had thus far on the trip. Started with steamed greens covered with oil. Then the very best…..Roast lamb with potatoes done in the oven. I was told I would have to wait a half hour as it was cooked fresh. Where was I going? The meal was worth waiting for! Wow!

Of course, the meat was not lamb. It was that other little animal. Goat. I did not have the heart to confront the owner with the issue. I have become knowledgeable. I can tell the difference. It is not in the taste. It is in the form. The bone structure accompanying the meat is different.

There were five people sitting nearby. Early 20s. Four young ladies and one man. They caught my attention. They were all laughing and talking in sign language. Two of the ladies were apparently deaf and dumb. The two were talking everyone’s ears off, so to speak. The two were also absolutely beautiful! Hair, make up, attire all perfect. These were today ladies on an Amorgos holiday.

Another experience evidencing we do not know how good we have it. I was enjoying a conversation with two Italian ladies sitting at the next table. We were idling the time over coffee. Mythos gave us a dish of fresh watermelon on the house. Black seeds galore.

I mentioned that we have watermelon without seeds available in the United States. They were surprised. No seeds? Italian watermelon comes only with seeds.

I told them about seedless grapes. Again, surprise. They had never heard of them.

The conversation stayed on food. They told me they now have egg whites in bottles. New to Italy. I told them we have had egg whites for years.

An interesting world we live in.

Enjoy your day!

A QUIET DAY IN ANOTHER PARADISE

Yesterday…..

Not all days are exciting and new. The thrill of discovery not always there. Some are quiet and laid back. My yesterday was.

Did my duty for God and country. The blog! At Spyros’s internet store. Spyros runs a pleasant operation. A clean updated store. Five relatively new computers. His personality helpful. The store is located on a lovely narrow walkway. Attractive stores within my view. I work looking out the window. Immediately across is the international book store. American newspapers expensive. Generally a week old.

Lunched at Mythos. An octopus salad. Octopus, lettuce and tomatoes in a light oil sauce. I do not know how Greeks would survive without oil. If olive trees ever get sick, Greek restaurants are in trouble!

The octopus was cooked. Delicious. Tender. The texture of sponge cake.

I walked after the lunch. A downer! I learned that my 3 mile walk from the day before was really 1 1/2 miles. Still better than nothing. I will get to 3 miles on this trip. I am committed.

Actually, I got to 2 miles yesterday. In the evening after dinner I walked a half mile. It was a half mile.

I keep referring to one of my favorite restaurants without naming it. I finally learned the name last night when I had dinner there. The Mouragio Restaurant. Dimitris is the owner and cook. A few days ago, I mentioned he wears crocs, also. Black ones. Unusual since Greece is not croc country.

Stuffed vines and mousaka for dinner. The place was empty when I arrived. When I left, there was not a table to be had. Mostly local customers. The two items for dinner, bread, a large bottle of water and one ozou. They charge for bread in Greece. Cost: 13 euros. About $17 American money.

Kapatola is empty. The festival guests have left. It is like Key West after a big weekend of some celebration or other.

Turkey is represented here by several sailboats and a very large vessel. The flags tell me the country of origin.

There was an exceptionally large power boat. One hundred feet plus. A yacht. Bearing a Turkish flag.

I paid attention to the yacht. There were three 30ish fellows on board. Dressed very casually. Drinking beer.

I suspected at the time that they were too young to have such a magnificent vessel. The boat probably cost $20-$30 million. They were either captaining the boat to wherever the owner might be or were drug dealers. It takes big money to own a boat like that.

After dinner, I walked by the yacht again. A magnificent table had been set on the rear deck of the boat. White table clothe and several types of fancy glassware. The three guys were sitting down having dinner. One was puffing a cigar. The three were being waited on by what was obviously the boat’s waitress/servant. A lady dressed in a white blouse and black pants.

My vote is they were drug dealers.

I loaded six novels in my tablet before leaving Key West two weeks ago. Yesterday, I finished the sixth and last one. I love reading so it did not bother me.

I want to briefly review the books with you. I do so in the order they impressed me.

Eisenhower in War and Peace by Jean Edward Smith was by far the best. As mentioned a few days ago, the author exposed Eisenhower’s warts. If you think about it, every President has had them.

Then Paris by Edward Rutherford. Two years ago I read another Rutherford novel. It was entitled New York. Loved it!

Rutherford writes in a strange style. He takes a person and traces the lineage/descendants from the start of the community to present day. That is how he tells about the city. The personal interrelationships keep you glued to the book.

The next was Burt Bacharach’s Anyone Who Had A Heart. His autobiography. Loved it! His ups and downs. Told in some places with humor, in other sadness. No punches pulled. He was once married to Angie Dickinson. They had an autistic child. A sad story. Autism was not a known disease/problem back then. So the daughter was never effectively treated. When she could be treated, it was too late. She committed suicide.

Thomas Jefferson – The Art of Power by Jon Meahcam. I am a history freak. The facts were interesting. I learned much. However, the writing style encumbered me. The sentences were too long. Sometime 5-6lines, compounded, etc. For me, not smooth reading.

The book was obviously the work of a scholar. It reminded me of a legal brief or educational treatise. Everything documented.

Meacham is a popular media person. He was editor of some big time weekly magazine till about two years ago. Now he is most frequently seen on MSNBC’s Morning Joe.

I had a hard time enjoying the book.

Next was Best Kept Secret by Jeffrey Arthur. Strange, but I cannot recall anything about it. Obviously the book made an impression on me (said with tongue in cheek).

The last novel was No Easy Day by Mark Owen. Do not bother reading it. Boring.

I selected the book because the author was one of the super duper Seals in on the raid that killed Osama Bin Laden. He was on the steps in back of the Seal who actually shot Bin Laden in the head.

The Bin Laden story came at the end of the book and was quite short. Most of the book was dedicated to what it took to be a Seal and the category above which required even more from an individual. Seal training was not my interest. Bin Laden’s demise was.

The cold wind is gone. I was up at 7 this morning sitting on the terrace. Glorious. Me, the sea and a mountain. I enjoyed a cup of coffee and just sat taking it in. The only sound was the water rushing towards shore. No other. Not even a bird.

Around 8 in the morning, the locals and some visitors walked by the terrace on their way to the beach. The path is immediately to my left. The same people swim every morning. All ages. Not for long. It is their exercise time.

I have yet to put my feet into the Aegean Sea.

The salt must be heavy in the water. Everyone seems to be floating on their backs with ease.

I am into cookies. They looked good in the bakery I frequent. I enjoyed them for breakfast yesterday morning.

I found another bakery last night. I bought their cookies this morning. Good! Like you would not believe! Texture and taste outstanding! I ate the whole dozen in one sitting. I do not feel guilty. This is only the second time on this trip that I have pigged out. Actually, I am eating less than normal. I even believe I may have lost a pound or two. My pants are more difficult to keep up.

Enjoy your day!