BACK ON SANTORINI

After three delightful weeks on Amorgos, I have returned to Santorini for a week. Santorini will be an enjoyable stay.

The two islands are different.

I love Amorgos because it is yesterday and laid back. Santorini is the view. Different flavors, different strokes. Each satisfying in its own way.

Santorini is a one hour ferry boat ride from Amorgos. It took me all day! Yesterday had its negatives.

I did not know till 3:30 in the afternoon whether the ferry boat was coming. Bad seas. In the meantime, I had to pack and leave my apartment because new tenants were coming in. Eleni was good, however. She arranged a room for me in the event I had to stay another night on Amorgos. However, I could not gain access to the room till it was certain I was staying over.

I was with a large suitcase with no where to go. I stayed on the terrace in the sun. Spent some time at Mythos. Said my goodbyes to three special friends I made. Spyros, Vangelis and Suzanna. Good people all!

Then word came. The boat was coming! Joy to me and a hundred other persons.

The ferry boat was due at 5:30. It was an hour late. Did not show till 6:30. I was standing on a concrete dock in the sun for 1 1/2 hours waiting.

The boat got me to Santorini at 8. One and a half hours late. The seas were still rough. The first 15 minutes of the ride were a bit exciting. I thought I was going to get sick! I assume everyone else thought they were going to, also. Up and down, big dips, with no end in sight. Started just as we left the harbor. After 15 minutes it stopped and was a smooth ride the rest of the way in.

Nikos met me. What a great guy! His cave apartments are on the other side of the island from where the ferry boat landed. Maria gave me a Greek hug and kiss when I got to the caves.

Andromaxi welcomed me with a big hug and kiss when I arrived at Mezzo! She was excited to see me. I was excited to see her. You will recall that I described her a few weeks ago as a classic Greek female beauty.

I wanted a cheeseburger! Chbeeseburger in paradise. Another paradise. I had not had beef in quite a while. Delicious!

I stopped in the bakery store this morning to buy a warm roll. The elderly woman who runs the place gave me a big smile and hug, also. First time.

Santorini is a hugging and kissing place. All of Greece is for that matter.

Besides the various differences described between Amorgos and Santorini, there is another. Santorini is more expensive than Amorgos. Tremendously so!

My best estimate is 50 per cent higher for the same item. What was 4 euros on Amorgos is six on Santorini. In one instance, the difference was 100 per cent. A bottle of Beefeaters on Amorgos was 12 euro. The same size bottle last night on Santorini was 23.90 euros.

Accomodations are also significangtly more expensive.

Santorini is not a poor man’s paradise!

The beauty of Santorini is beyond description. I arrived as the sun set. I was sitting outside this morning when the sun rose. God worked a wonder when He inflicted the volcano eruption on this island some 1,600 years ago.

Enjoy your day!

STUCK ON AMORGOS…..NO FERRY BOAT

History repeats itself.

Last year I was stranded on Mykonos four extra days. The sea was too choppy. The ferry boats would not venture out.

It is happening again in Amorgos. The ferry boat did not arrive yesterday. Sea too rough. As I write this morning, I have been told it is doubtful the boat will come in today. Perhaps tomorrow.

I minded the inconvenience last year because I did not like Myukonos. I do not mind if I am forced to stay another night on Amorgos, however. Amorgos is one the best places in the world!

The only problem is where do I stay. I lose my apartment today. Eleni says she has a room for me on the third floor. A hike up long steep stairs. At least, I will have a place to sleep.

The funny part of all this is that I only need a ferry boat for a one hour trip. I am returning to Santorini for a few days. Santorini is one hour away.

I had dinner at Mythos again last night. He told me his fisherman said there would be no ferry boat today. The water beyond the bay is too rough.

There ia a boat in the area which gives me concern. The Greek military vessel at the opening to Amorgos’harbor. It is still there. I am sitting outside doing this blog. The monster is directly in my vision.

The vessel is big. I find it intimidating. I keep waiting for a few shells to fall on this small inconsequential island.

I started asking questions yesterday. Turns out the ship is a Greek Coast Guard vessel. I have never seen anything this big in Key West. Most refer to it as a battleship. I doubt it is. However, believe me, it is huge! Even has a big helicopter perched on the rear deck.

There are two versions as why it is here.

Apparently, the Turks flew two planes over Greek soil last week. The Coast Guard vessel is in response to the unauthorized flight. I amn aware Turkey is close by. Not that close, however.

The other version is the boat is part of a training exercise.

The vessel will not leave till friday. It will have sat in the entrance to Amorgos bay for ten days. Many are pissed it is there. Greece is hurting economically. Manuy island people consider it a waste of money for the big boat to sit idle.

Flora stopped by last night before I went out. All dressed up! Lovely! A bright red skirt and black armless top. The colors of Albania. The Albanian flag is red with a big black bird in the center.

Flora and I have become friends. We moved the relationship forward last night. We became Facebook friends.

Before Flora arrived, I was sitting outside on the terrace half asleep. Rita from the other day came by on her bike. To say goodbye to the third American on the island, as she described me. It was nice of her. Her next stop was her garden.

Everyone has a garden on this island. They grow their own vegetables. I suspect they can the foods for the winter.

Canning is a throw back in time. I can recall as a young boy in the late 1930s helping my parents can tomatoes and peaches. Fun, but not easy. Hot work. No air conditioning back then. We lived on the third floor of an apartment building. The top floor. The roof was flat. The tomatoes had to be boiled. Contributed to the heat. Then peeled. Then canned in Bell glass jars. Following which the bottled tomatoes had to be boiled again. The heat and sweat big time.

A full day job. Many jars of tomatoes to be done. We ate pasta at least three times a week. The tomatoes necessary for the sauce.

Last night, a wonderful evening. One of the best. I dined at Mythos.

I decided on lamb chops. Vangelis said no. I have a goat. A whole goat. Cooked it myself. Have the goat. You will enjoy. His food has been so good, I did not argue with him.

A whole goat had been roasted. My plate was overflowing with slices and pieces of goat meat. Some covered in a crispy skin. It was fantastic! Tasted just like the pigs we roasted outdoors for parties in Utica. Great flavor and texture.

After dinner, Vangelis and Suzanna sat with me. It was late. Their work was done. Others were cleaning up. We chatted for well over an hour.

Terrific people! Vangelis is Greek. Suzanna, Albanian. As Flora is. I told Suzanna her name was from the old South in America. I sang the first line of Old, Susanna to her. She knew of it.

They met when Vangelis was on vacation in Albania close to 20 years ago.

Hard working people. Suzanna cooks. Vangelis does everything else. He hosts, takes orders, serves. Their 15 year old daughter works incessantly. Without complaint. These people go seven days a week for three months. The daughter is as good as the father in what she does. The ten year old son serves and cleans tables. Then there is the 13 month old baby. Lovely! She is in someone’s arms all day.

Suzanna said she gets to bed about 3 in the morning and is back in the restaurant at 10. Vangelis gets to bed the same time. However, he has to return at 8 to get things going.

They have to make it in the three summer months. Just as Key West restaurants have to make it in the three month winter season. The difference is that Key West has locals to carry them during the off season. Not on Amorgos. Everything closes down. Most on the island have just enough to sustain themselves.

Vangelis and Suzanna have one of the top restaurants. Perhaps the top. They have operated the restaurant for 13 years. They do not own the property. They lease. They have yet to purchase their own home. A home remains too expensive for them.

Vangelis works another job in the off season. He and his brother operate a remodeling business.

Some one telephoned the ferry boat company. They still do not know if the boat will be running today. They will not know till the afternoon.

I really do not care. The only problem is similar to flying and a snow storm shutting down an airport for a day or two. There are not enough seats available for everyone on the first day’s boat out. I could end up staying on Amorgos for two or three additional days. Wonderful! Though I love Santorini, I will not be unhappy to get the additional time on Amorgos.

Enjoy your day!