MONT BLANC TUNNEL

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I am presently in Courmayeur, Italy. Yesterday, I decided to go to Chamonix, France. Mont Blanc was in the way.

No big deal. Around 1960, Italy and France built a tunnel under Mont Blanc connecting the two cities and two nations. Travelers were able to save 60-100 miles as a result.

The tunnel took eight years to construct.

It is a little over seven miles long. Only 28 feet wide. A few inches over fourteen feet high. Two lanes, one each way.

Additional lanes are needed. However construction costs are prohibitive and have prevented the construction.

There was a major fire in the tunnel in 1999. Thirty nine people killed. Amongst other things, the ventilation system did not work properly. Instead of sucking the toxic fire fumes out, it drove them back into the tunnel.

Everything purportedly fixed now and it is not supposed to happen again.

I went through the tunnel several times last year. I went through it twice yesterday. Once each way.

Traffic entering the tunnel from both sides is controlled. When the toll is paid, vehicles are not permitted to immediately take off. There is a time factor between each vehicle. About two minutes.

Cars are not permitted to piggy back or get close in any way. Each vehicle must remain at least 500 feet behind the one in front. All through the tunnel, there are blue blinking lights on each side measuring the 500 foot distance for drivers.

Speed is controlled. Fifty to 70 km per hour.

The traffic control is so efficient that when there is going to be a delay, blinking signs miles away announce the delay and how long. I got stuck in a 90 minute delay on the way back to Italy. The traffic was backed up on the French side 3 miles. When I say backed up, it means no movement. The motor is turned off and you sit for 10-20 minutes. Then on again to move forward a few car lengths.

It was not a bad situation. People get out of their cars and talk with each other. I enjoyed the company of my neighbors. Precisely 90 minutes after I entered the 3 mile span, I was in the tunnel.

The delay in itself was an experience. Expected and accepted. Nothing anyone could do about it anyhow.

Other than the tunnel delay, yesterday was basically unexciting. McDonalds was the big event for me. After McDonalds, my plans got screwed up. I intended to go up in a cable car or train over the top of Mont Blanc. A WOW I assumed. However, it started raining. Pouring. The end of trips up and down for the day. I was disappointed. The experience would have been unique.

I was back in my chalet early. Read. Not a bad situation. I was able to sit on the terrace. The one facing Mont Blanc. Each time I looked up, there was the glacier topped peak. A sight to behold.

To my friend Don, a message. If Don is still up north at his camp, someone please bring my message to his attention. The message: Don, I am out of cigarettes!

The honeymoon is over come this wednesday. I will be back in Key West wednesday evening.

Enjoy your day!

A BEAUTIFUL EVENING…..A BEAUTIFUL PLACE

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You will never believe from where I am writing this blog. McDonalds in Chamonix, France! The only good part of it is that I am in France. The McDonalds sucks. Large, crowded, no air conditioning. It has to be a 120 degrees in here. Many Europeans do not use deodorant. The fact is very obvious at the moment.

I am not complaining. Just sharing.

I went to Vodaphone in Novara. I should have known better. They are Verizon’s informal partner in Europe. I said sell me something that I can use in Italy that will act as my wi fi. No problem, I was told. Twenty euros later I had this little thing to plug in my computer. No wi fi number needed. Just type away!

Wow!

My luck was consistent. It did not work. It will not work.

I stayed in a hillside Swiss chalet last night with no wi fi connection. I am in Chamonix this morning. I figured Chamonix would have all sorts of cafes and places with wi fi. Good luck! Everyone directed me to McDonalds. Wi fi! It works! However, the conditions under which I am writing leave something to be desired.

I am supposed to take a train or cable car to the top and over Mont Blanc into Switzerland later in the afternoon. There is a stop for lunch near the top. I will need the glacier to cool down.

Enough of the pain in the ass stuff. Now for the good stuff.

I drove to Courmayeur from Novara yesterday. A 3 1/2 hour drive. A different one. The speed limit was 130 kilometers. That translates to 135 miles per hour. I drove it! Sometimes as high as 150 miles per hour.

No special thrill involved. It is the same as driving 60-70 mph in the States. The difference I suspect would be if an accident occurred.

Would you believe that at 135 mph, everyone was passing me.

The drive was pleasant view wise. Early on, I entered into the Alps. The mountain chain starts small. The whole of each mountain was green with foliage and trees. Then a bit of brown started to appear high up. Dirt. The mountain had grown beyond the tree line. Then gray rock on top of the brown. Even higher. Then glaring white. Glaciers! Real high up!

I was also driving gradually up hill the whole way.

Castles galore. On both sides of the highway. One every mile or so. Each constructed on top of a steep rocky hill. Apparently to make it difficult for an enemy to attack the castle.

Keep in mind how close the castles were to each other. One mile. A half days horse ride From one to the other. Not difficult to engage in warfare at that distance. They frequently did back then.

The evening was outstanding!

Last year, I stayed on the outskirts of Courmayeur. I did not go into the center of town. Last night, I did. What beauty! What a wonderful place!

Picture streets for pedestrians only. No vehicular traffic. Each building styled like a Swiss chalet. Very smart boutiques, cafes and restaurants along the way.
All a pleasure to behold.

The people were different. Courmayeur is a high end place. People in summer attire. Not the summer attire I wear in Key West or saw in Athens or the Greek isles. Very few shorts here. Men and women in long slacks. The women in tight legged pants. The place reeked of money, money, and more money.

I was able to determine that most of those I saw were residents of Milan. They have second homes in Courmayeur to escape the summer heat and to ski in the winter.

Keep in mind that the Alps are all around. Mont Blanc with its glacier appeared close enough to touch.

What a setting!

I did two outdoor cafes. At each, the drinks were served with a bit of food. Free. Lazy susans were used. Ten inches in diameter. Loaded with goodies! Slices of pastrami, salami and ham. Different filled tiny puffs. Different kinds of finger sandwiches. Butter generally used on the them. Pizza. Tiny olive sandwiches. Little pieces of bread covered with goat cheese topped with apricot marmalade.

All free!

I had two gins at the first place. Ate 2 of the lazy susans all alone. At the second place, I finished again the whole thing. Completed my informal dining with a piece of cake. I had to pay for the desert.

I had gone to Courmayeur intending to have dinner. No way! I was stuffed! So was my pocketbook. The three gins, the piece of cake, and all the food goodies cost me a mere 18 euros.

I even learned bocce is popular.

Everything I saw is an inducement to return.

I met a woman. Everyone has a dog. The dogs were well trained and well groomed. At the table next to me at the first place were 6 people and 3 dogs. The dogs sat or laid by their masters and did not move. Except once. One of the three dogs was a large black curly haired one. He or she scooted over and under my table. Started sniffing my feet, then my legs, and was probably going for my crotch. The dog’s mistress pulled her dog back and apologized.

I suspect the dog was so trained.

We started talking.

What a lovely woman! Mid 50s to early 60s. Beautiful face. Short cropped hair. A well kept body. She was wearing tan riding trousers and a tight white shirt. The fit was perfect.

Her name Justine. A divorcee. Resides in Milan. She has an apartment in Coumayeur. We chatted quite a while. Enjoyed the moment and each other’s company. At the end, we exchanged e mails and telephone numbers.

Justine told me Courmayeur is considered the flower of Europe. She further told me that Christmas and New Years are especially exciting. On Christmas eve, skiers come down Mont Blanc holding candles. A sight to behold I was told.

So much for yesterday. Enough for today. The humidity is so heavy in this place that I am beginning to smell like my European compatriots.

Enjoy your day!

NO AIR CONDITIONING IN ITALY

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Italy is basically without air conditioning. It is claimed there is some. However, you can’t prove it by me. I have yet to experience any.

Which means…..Hot and uncomfortable in Novara.

A person sleeps with the windows wide open. Need air! Sheets a bit sticky. Dying for air! Air conditioning!

The open windows invite mosquitos. Every night. My blood must be sweet in my old age. I am the recipient of several bites a night.

There are two reasons for the lack of air conditioning.

One is that Italy does not have nor ever has had sufficient electric power. The other is that most of the buildings are so old and with such thick stone walls that it is impossible to air condition them.

A lack of air conditioning is why Italians eat their big meal at lunch. It is too hot to stay in their apartments, let alone cook a big meal in the evening. Italians rush outside. Sit around till about 11 at outdoor cafes. Have a sandwich or pick on something light. At 11 things are cooler, though not cool cool. They return to home and bed. Pray to be able to fall asleep quickly so they will not continue to feel the discomfort of the fading heat.

Automobiles are involved with the air conditioning problem, also.

Most automobiles have air conditioning. However, it is little if ever used by Italian drivers. The reason is the cost of gasoline. Around $13 a gallon. The same reason why all cars are stick shift and small. To conserve on gasoline and save a dollar or two at the gas pump.

Italians drive with open windows. The outside hot humid air blasting in. They think they are cool.

When I am in a taxi or limousine, I wait a few minutes and then ask for air. The drivers always turn it on. About 20 per cent of what is required. The windows are shut. The air conditioning grossly insufficient. I start to swelter and sweat. I ask for more air. I generally have to repeat it several times to get the air to the point where I am comfortable.

Yesterday, I walked a couple of hours. Downtown Novara is an interesting place. Most buildings constructed in medieval times. Like 1,500-2,000 years ago.

I ventured into the side streets. Deserted. Narrow roadways. Just enough room for one small car to travel.

I got lost. No big deal. Saw a lot of old buildings. Some in good shape. Some in terrible disrepair.

I came across a small retail store on one of the side streets. In the window were Church vestments. The type Catholic priests wear when saying Mass. I went in. Fortunately, the proprietor spoke English. Yes, he only sold vestments for priests. He was actuTlly a mail order business. the vestments were made in Novara and shipped world wide.

I found the whole experience exciting. I was an altar boy for years. I used to get the vestments out for the priests, return them to the closet after Mass, and assist the priests in dressing before Mass. Brought back memories from 65 or more years ago.

It was a Church day. I passed what appeared to be a small Church. Decided to stop in. Catholic Churches are generally beautiful inside. A Mass was just starting. I am a fallen away Catholic . I have not been to Mass in I don’t know how many years. I stayed. For the whole Mass! Talk about memories from days gone by!

I went to a birthday party last night. In an Italian restaurant that served only Italian food. I was the only American. Every one else was Italian or from some other country.

My hosts were Italian and Moroccan.

The meal started with a large dish of assorted fishes. When it was placed before me, I thought I was supposed to take some and pass the plate on. No, each person had their own large plate.

I dug in. I could not finish. Left about a quarter of the plate. My Moroccan hostess was seated next to me. She looked at the dish and looked at me. You do not like, she asked. No, I am full. Are you sure? Yes.

Turns out it is considered an insult in Italy not to finish every morsel of food on your plate. It means you do not consider the food good. An insult to your host.

I thought the fish dish was it. We were done eating. No, the fish dish was an appetizer. Now the main course. Each person ordered off the menu. I order what the host ordered. Spaghetti in oil with clams. Spaghetti vongole.

A huge platter was placed before me. No American restaurant serves that much pasta in one dish. I dug in. I did not wish to insult my hostess further.

The dish was too much for me. I was splitting and uncomfortable. I gave up half way through. My hostess said nothing. I believe she was convinced I was full.

Interestingly, every one else cleaned their plates.

It was announced last night Silvio Berlusconi’s appeal failed. He is scheduled for jail. Because of his age, he is 76, he will probably get house arrest or community service for one year.

Berlusconi is an extremely popular man in Italy. Especially in the north where I am. He is also the political power in Italy. The news reports are clear that if Berlusconi is not treated properly, his party will probably withdraw their support for the present President and Prime Minister. Italy’s government would immediately collapse.

Even the appellate court that ruled against Berlusconi was/is aware of his importance and how he must be treated with kid gloves. Berlusconi presently sits in Italy’s national legislature. Under Italian law, if convicted of a crime, a person can no longer hold office. The court in its decision asked that that portion of the law be relooked at so Berlusconi could continue to sit.

Berlusconi is also presently on appeal for having had sex with a 17 year old. He was convicted and sentenced to a jail term. Last night after hearing of the appellate court’s ruling against him, it was reported Berlusconi said in effect…..Screw them, I am going out and pick up some young girls tonight! The reaction of the Italian people was to be expected. They loved his comment! Typical Berlusconi!

I leave for Courmayeur later today. The Alps. I will be staying in a Swiss chalet half way up Mont Blanc. Mont Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps.

It will be cool. I have been told to bring long pants and a jacket. What a difference three hours traveling will make.

Enjoy your day!

AUSTRALIAN INSIGHTS

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I flew from Athens to Milan yesterday. I had the good fortune to be seated next to a woman of beauty and intelligence. She was from Australia.

The young lady is a public servant. Civil Service type for the Australian government.

I obtained significant insight from our chat.

From the 1990s into the early 2000s, Australia was on the verge of an economic crisis. Jobs and cash flow were needed. The two political parties running the government got together. They passed laws appropriating monies for infrastructure. Jobs were created, money flowed. The stimulus plan worked. A financial crisis was avoided.

Note that the two Australian political parties worked together. Politics in Australia is as adversarial as in the United States. However, when the chips were down, the parties joined together to do the necessary.

The United States needs an infrastructure stimulus program. Obama pushes it. The Republicans reject the idea. When will country over politics reign in the United States?

Australia biggest export customer is China. They export more goods to China than any other country. China needs everything. They are buying. Australia imports Chinese goods, also.

Obviously, no balance of trade problem between Australia and China.

Why does the United States have one and not Australia? What is the United States doing wrong with regard to its China trade policies? Why can’t the United States and China work together as Australia and China are?

Australia did not experience the bank problem we have had in recent years. The reason is that Australia required the banks to have more liquidity. Higher surpluses and reserves.

United States banks have not been held to the same high standard as the Australian banks. Probably because Australia’s leaders are less prone to favor banks over the electorate. I have a feeling corporate/banking lobbyists do not have the same influence in Australia that they do in the United States.

It is interesting that a democratic nation similar to that of the United States appears to operate more intelligently and effectively where economics are concerned. Perhaps it is the air they breath on the other side of the world.

I was shot when I arrived in Novara late yesterday afternoon. First time I have really been tired this trip. I was in bed asleep at 7. Woke at 4. Stayed in bed till 6. Feel a hell of a lot better this morning.

I have started working on next week’s KONK Life column. The Beggars of Athens. From Diogenes to present day. Guaranteed interesting!

Enjoy your day!

MY LAST FULL DAY IN ATHENS

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Yesterday, I slept late. I was comfortable in bed. My body refused to move.

Later, I took a walk. Up and down Ermou Street, Athen’s busiest commercial street. I finally learned its name yesterday even though I have spoken of it every day.

Saw an inviting outdoor café. Took a table. Sat for two hours watching the Greek world go by. I ordered a freddo cappuccino. It is a cold cappuccino. It is the only Greek coffee I have learned by name. Ergo, it is my drink of choice where ever I go.

I made some observations and arrived at some conclusions while sitting. Let me share them with you.

Spaghetti seems to be the lunch favorite in Greece. The famous Greek salad comes in the evening.

There have been no demonstrations while I have been in Athens this year. Last year, I was fortunate to walk through two involving thousands of people. There are union called protests. Nothing however like the ad hoc yelling crowds of last summer.

I constantly learn. Learn of my mistakes. I always thought Acropolis and Parthenon were two separate sets of old buildings on top of the same mountain. Turns out Acropolis is the mountain and Parthenon the buildings.

Sneaks are different in Greece. Whether male or female, they are low slung. Similar to the American walking sneak. No one wears the big Nike. I did. Stopped. Thought I looked foolish, that every one was looking at my feet.

Sandals are also big with men and women. I was ok in this regard. Sandals have a universal appearance.

Women’s foot attire is another story. Athens needs a Stephanie Kaple. Heels forget. On the whole trip thus far, I have seen one set of stiletto heels. A woman working in a high end jewelry store on Santorini was wearing a pair of four inchers.

Platform shoes are worn. Not that many, however. Most women, whether dressed or casual, walk around in sandals with full backs at the ankles. They seem to be the female shoe of choice.

The New Dawn Party is a rebirth of the Nazi Party. It is a growing influence in Greece. When I see them in their black uniforms, I feel the same way as I did on Amorgos when the big Greek Coast Guard vessel arrived and sat in the middle of the entrance to the harbor for several days. Intimidated.

Automobiles were in the minority in Milan. Mopeds were the vehicle of choice. In Athens, it is the motorcycle. I have never seen so many. Crossing the street is a dangerous event!

Young Greek men are lovers. Especially in Athens. They move on every woman, regardless of age. The ladies seem to expect and enjoy it.

There is a constant sense of being a part of history when a person is in Greece. Much like visiting the Washington Memorials, Mount Vernon or Gettysburg.

I quick visited a museum I came across behind Parliament. Entry fee 10 euros. What country are you from? The USA. 10 euros. Seems only the US and German patrons pay 10 euros. Everyone else, 2 euros. We know the Greeks hate the Germans. I can understand why the Germans would not be given a break. But why an American citizen? The Greeks seem to love us. Big time! I suspect they believe Americans are all rich and can afford full price.

The young lady collecting the admission fee at the door and I had a brief chat. She was very upset. She recently finished her university education. She has four degrees. Could not get a job. She works as a ticket seller at the museum and makes a paltry 300 euros a month. $400 American money. She is angered.

I stopped at the Grande Bretagne for a manicure. The same young lady that did me last year did me yesterday. Her name, Chrysa. She said upon seeing me…..You are from Key West, you were here last year. Amazing!

I shall close with the saga of the two elevators.

I think I am losing it a bit.

I had to take the elevator to get to the beauty shop. The elevator doors shut behind me. I looked to both sides and saw no button panel. I did see a sign at eye level. It was dark, had on sunglasses, and have bad vision to boot. The word VOICE stood out. Next to the sign were two little speakers.

I was impressed. A new elevator concept. You recall I experienced one in Washington, DC recently. I said….Two. Nothing happened. I have a clear deep distinct voice. I repeated the number several times. Nothing happened.

I thought…..Shit, I’m stuck in an elevator!

My eyes dropped. There at about knee level was the usual appearing button panel. I pressed 2 and was on my way. I read the sign when the doors opened at 2. The message was in effect to relax if you were stuck. A voice would come on in due course and you could talk to someone.

I returned to my hotel. I am staying in 806. The door opener is one of those swipe things. The door would not open. It had opened the previous two days with no trouble using the same card. I found the floor cleaning lady and told her of my plight. She agreed to let me in. We tried my card again first. She asked what my room number was. I told her 806. We were on the sixth floor and I was trying to get into 606!

Enjoy your day!

BEGGARS…..SICK DOES NOT DESCRIBE

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Athens has street beggars. On its most commercial street. Immediately below the Parliament building.

I walked there yesterday. Within the first four blocks, I saw five beggars.

The first three were elderly women. Marked by the absence of teeth. One or two hanging, otherwise gums. One woman was seated in the middle of the street. The street was closed off to vehicular traffic. The other two walked up to me. Each holding a a cup in hand and saying something in Greek that I could not understand. Their intent was clear, however…..Help me!

The next two were male. One without feet and the other without arms.

The one without feet was the easier of the two to handle. He was sitting with his back up against a building. His feet were missing from just above the ankles.

The armless one was gut wrenching.

I saw this man sitting on the curb. He was missing one arm from just below the shoulder. The other from just above the elbow. His arm remnants were extended. One sort of up, the shorter one at about a 25 degree angle.

At first, I thought the man was a statue. He did not seem to move. I went into a nearby doorway to observe him. He was human. He was alive. His abbreviated limbs moved on occasion. Though, slightly.

His face was disgusting. He must have been the victim of an explosion or fire. Tan and yellow skinned. Hanging flesh. His head was almost completely bald. He did have a tuft of hair on the back. Sticking straight up.

I returned to observe him closely. At a respectable distance.

His eyes. At first I thought him blind. His eyes were both to one direction and looking upward. Not moving. Then, moved slightly. He may have been of limited vision.

Clothe in rags. A small bowl in front of him for contributions.

We do not see this in the United States. Fortunately. Begging has always been a part of Greek society. It amazes me that the Greek government has never done something to help these people. Even in better economic times.

I ended up taking the longest walk of my trip. It was not intended. It just happened. I walked to the plaka. At its entrance to the side, I observed a large sign. Athens Flea Market. Why not!

The flea market was extensive. Long. Like the winding alleys of the Casbah. Once in, it was hard to find the way out. I just kept walking.

Finally, I found a side street leading directly into one of the main plaka streets. The one on the Rockefeller side, the poor side. I walked it to the bitter end. First time.

On the way back, I stopped at an outdoor café to rest. It was boiling hot. Parts of my shirt soaking wet.

I enjoyed a draft beer and observed.

I was seated with the building the Rockefeller Foundation had paid to reconstruct 500 feet to the front of me. Massive. Sits at the base of Acropolis. To my back was an archeological digging. A pretty good sized one. Many persons working. Excavating a community hidden for centuries beneath the ground. Houses, rooms and old pathways could be observed.

I also got to observe business done the Greek way. There are street hustlers everywhere. Peddling their goods to tourists. One was walking around with a handful of men’s wrist watches. He was negotiating the price with a tourist. Turned out to be a young American. The peddler wanted 20 euros for one. The American said no and counter offered. By the time the transaction was over, the American walked away with 2 watches for 10 euros.

It made me wonder. Could the watches be for real? They looked good. But at that price? I suspect the watches were devoid of innards to make them work. Or, were stolen goods and therefore any price was a profitable one.

I stopped into the Rockefeller renovated building. Sort of a museum. Saw a baby’s high chair estimated to have been built some 2,000 years before the birth of Christ. Nothing much changed in design from then to now.

Last night was a disappointment. I ate at the same café I had eaten at 4 weeks ago in the plaka. I had a terrific meal at the time. Went back for another one. Ordered the exact same thing. Even had the same waiter. Grilled egg plant and a dish of assorted grilled meats.

The meal sucked! It was terrible!

Such is life.

Enjoy your day!

ATHENS LAST NIGHT

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Athens is a 25 minute flight from Santorini. I had to wait 45 minutes to get my luggage. Amazing!

Nikos drove me to the Santorini airport. What a guy!

I noticed on the drive into Athens from the airport that there were a lot of police cars. The cab driver told me it was because Italy’s Prime Minister Enrico Letta was in town to meet with the Greek hierarchy.

For some reason, I was not in the mood for plaka last night. My usual Athens night time haunt. I walked in the other direction. Ended up at the Grande Bretagne. I had tried to get a room there when planning the trip. One of the world’s great hotels. I was told there were no available rooms.

There were a lot of policemen outside the Grande Bretagne. Inside, I had to go through security. Like in an airport. I sensed Letta might be staying there. I would not ask, however. Greece makes me uncomfortable on occasion.

I enjoyed a superior evening at the Grande Bretagne! Even better than that!

I started at the bar. I was drinking Beefeaters. During my talk with the bartender, he asked if I had ever tried Beefeaters’ 24 Gin. It is Beefeaters top of the line. Forget never having drunk it, I had never heard of it. I wonder how many of you have.

In any event, I tried a glass. I did not like it. It had a perfumey bouquet like Bombay Saphire.

I decided to eat something. It was around 11 in the evening. I had not eaten since brfeakfast. I took a small intimate table just outside the bar area.

I ordered bruschetta. Three different types were served on vertical slices of a French type bread. One salmon, another mozzarella and tomato. The third was a vegetable of some sort. I susect zucchini crushed into an oily dressing. The whole thing to die for!

There was a piano player. Seated at a large baby grand. He played only American songs. He caught my ear with My Way. Later, his rendition of the theme from the Godfather blew me out.

There I was seated in absolute beauty enjoying excellent food and entertainment.

I thought how lucky I was.

The room. The Grande Bretagne is a distinguished old hotel. The bar area where I was seated is on the side of a huge high ceilinged dining area. Columns to the sky. Paintings. Antique furniture pieces. A physical heaven.

The Germans desecrated the Grande Bretagne with their presence during World War II. High ranking German officers occupied the hotel for living purposes. Offices were maintained in the building, also. I could envision German officers enjoying the room then as I was last night. A shame.

When I left, I had to pass through the crowd of police. I made it out just in time. I was 25 feet from the hotel when the sirens came blasting. Cars drove up. Four abreast. The street is extremely wide. Brakes screeched.

It was the man!

Italy’s Prime Minister Letta was staying at the Grande Bregtagne. He hopped out of his limo, gave a wave to everyone around, and entered the hotel. He had his jacket slung across his arm, no tie and his sleeves rolled up. Gave the impression he had been working. Some one told me that is his trade mark. No jacket or tie, sleeves rolled up.

I recently read that when ever Obama travels anywhere, like 200 staff and protection persons travel with him. The cars he will use are transported by plane, also. It made it easy for me to understand the retinue of cars stopping and people following the Prime Minister into the hotel.

There are two type police in downtown Athens these days. One official. The other unofficial, but tolerated. The usual police and members of the New Dawn Party. The New Dawn Party is the Nazi type political party gaining power on an increasing basis every day. The New Dawn members wore black and both walked and rode mopeds. Young good looking strong appearing individuals. I saw them out and about last night. In three different places. They travel in groups.

There was some sort of demonstration yesterday in front of the New Dawn headquarters in downtown Athens. Near Parliament. The party memebrs played the Nazi National Anthem. The very same one banned in Germany since World War II. During the demonstration, New Dawn handed out free food to whoever needed it. Not a hot dog. Bags of food. Families have a hard time getting enough food to eat in Greece these days.

Immigrants are the Jews of yesterday. The New Dawn Party blames them for Greece’s economic problems. Each person receiving food first had to establish he/she was not an immigrant.

I cannot wait to walk the streets of Athens today. Greece is an interesting and increasingly dangerous place.

Enjoy your day!

I’M GREEKED OUT!

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I’m Greeked out! I am ready to move on. This does not mean I do not like Greece. It just means I have experienced it all for this year and boredom is starting to set in.

My time in Greece was extended from originally planned. I sensed something happening in Greece the first week I was here. I wanted to verify my feelings. My plans were juggled to permit me to extended my Greece time by two weeks. Whatever I wanted to accomplish has been accomplished. In my mind. My thoughts to be shared when I return.

For me, Greece is three islands and Athens.

Athens is pure love. It is one of the world’s great cities. Like New York, Paris, and London. What is there not to like? My return to Athens is for three nights. Then to the Italian alps. A Swiss chalet half way up Mont Blanc. Within an hour’s drive to Switzerland and France.

The three islands I have come to know are Mykonos, Santorini, and Amorgos. Mykonos has the best beaches. Santorini the best view. Amorgos the best wind. Amorgos also has the promise of tomorrow.

I spent two weeks in Mykonos last year. Ten days planned and four extra days because I could not get a ferry boat out due to the bad seas. I did not like Mykonos. Ergo, it was not on the agenda this year.

Mykonos became famous back in the 1950s and 1960s. Movie stars and jet setters popularized the place. It became their playland. 2013 is 50-60 years later. Mykonos still has the reputation. However, there is not a movie star or jet setter on the island. It has become a tourist haven. Wannabes looking for the excitement of yesterday. Additionally, a tourist trap. Merchants hustle everyone. Friendliness lacking.

Therein lie the reasons I did not return to Mykonos this year.

Mykonos does have one non-comparable attribute, however. Its beaches. The best I have ever seen. Soft sand. Quiet water. Great beach bars and restaurants. Plus, topless and nude women. The women merely frosting on the cake. The beaches are that good.

Santorini has a view that is spectacular. Absolutely spectacular! The Lord could not have planned it better. The cave apartments also add to the ambiance. However, you cannot sit on a cave terrace and watch the view all day every day. That is where the problem comes in. After a volcano visit and catamaran trip, there is little to do.

Santorini is becoming a tourist haven. Most merchants on the hustle. Waiters disrespectful. Food not always the best. Prices very expensive. Note however there are still many places and people to the contrary. Such as the Taverna Katina and my cave apartment landlords Nikos and Maria.

Santorini is still good. I fear however it is becoming the tourist trap that Mykonos is.

Amorgos is like a five year old child. On the verge of blooming. It awaits the world.

The island is yet to be discovered. As I have stated in the past, it is a 100 years behind the times. Sitting on the Aegean, waiting for the world to visit it. Prices still dramatically cheap. Anywhere from 50 to 100 per cent cheaper than Mykonos and Santorini. The merchants love you and you love them. They care for you, are thankful for your business, and do their best to please you.

The beaches leave something to be desired. Stoney beaches. Water clear, however. Think Le Grand Bleu.

Amorgos has the wind! A big wind! Kept Katopola where I was staying comfortable all day. A strong cool wind off the sea is almost a necessity of life on a Greek isle in the summer months.

My sense is that Amorgos will be where Santorini is today 20 years from now. Sad. Enjoy it in the meantime.

I spent four hours yesterday morning at the internet store. First correcting my messed up blog from the day before, then doing yesterday’s blog, and finally writing next week’s KONK Life column. The article is interesting. The Real America. It starts with Michael Moore. Then goes from Travon Martin to Obama to Bank of America to the Religious Right to Pat Robertson to Halliburton. The column closes with Weiner and Spitzer. A revealing commentary in many respects. Some things you may not have known.

Lunch was at Mezzo. A chocolate milk shake again. I am a little boy at heart.

Later this afternoon, I start the trek to Athens. Tonight the Plaka. Dinner at the foot of a lighted Acropolis and Parthenon.

I will be in Athens three nights.

The family and I are in touch. Jake is getting car sick. Just from a short ride around town.

Enjoy your day!

A MESS

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Wi Fi did me in yesterday! I was completing, correcting and revising my blog. The Wi Fi kept going in and out. Somehow the final product did not get published. An earlier one did. With all the misspellings and improper grammar.

I did not know till this morning. I am profoundly sorry. I take too much pride in the product to have sent it off in the fashion it was received.

The blog was corrected this morning. It was good to go and is good to read.

Two nights ago Maria told me yesterday would be the hottest day of the summer. It was! What heat! Overbearing!

I have never had need to use the air conditioning in my cave. Yes, even caves have air conditioning. Yesterday, I did. Then prostrated myself on the bed for 4-5 hours till the sun receded over the cliff to the west.

Before the heat hit me, I was walking. I realized very soon how difficult it would be. I stopped into Mezzo to get out of the heat and have lunch.

Even at 78, I get cravings. I have been thinking of a chocolate milk shake the past few days. I satisfied my desire yesterday. A chocolate shake for lunch! I am still a kid at 78.

I spent parts of the day off and on working on next week’s KONK Life column. The Real America. It will be short and hard hitting. Another eye opener.

Last night was lamb on the spit again at the same taverna where I enjoyed it two nights earlier. Same good! Same taste!

I sense I am mellowing out. First time in ages. A good feeling.

Enjoy your day!

Wi Fi ON THE ROAD

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Computer hook ups can be a problem on the road. I know.

First, forget anything your provider suggests. It will not be dependable and cost too much for nothing but pure aggravation.

The key is Wi Fi. I consider Wi Fi a blessing. A benefit to travelers who need, depend on, love their computers. To those who cannot live without.

I have found however that when you are in the boondocks of the world as I am, even Wi Fi has its drawbacks. Wi Fi is generally dependable. However, if everyone wants on at the same time, it does not work. I am staying at a first class resort on Santorini in the Greek isles. From 6 to 8 in the morning, no problem. My computer works terrific. I have internet connection world wide.

The world starts waking at 8. Overload. The Wi Fi connections weakens. Generally, no Wi Fi for a couple of hours. The same problem around 3 in the afternoon when everyone comes in from the beach or out of the sun.

Still better than nothing.

When I am desperate, I find an internet store. For a couple of dollars I have a strong connection everywhere. However, an internet store is an inconvenience since I want on when I want it and not at the convenience of store hours.

So much for venting.

Yesterday was haircut time. I needed one badly. I have little hair on top. However I was three haircuts behind. My hair looked terrible.

I visited Catherine. The owner of hair & soul (spelled with small letters) who gave me a manicure 3 weeks ago and a manicure last year, also. My first haircut with her. In her beauty shop with three women getting their hair done at the same time.

I told Catherine use the #1 setting. She did. Two minutes later my haircut was complete. A stub just above bald.

Catherine felt guilty. No time involved. She threw in doing my ears and eyebrows. She also gave med a cool rinse to wash out the little hairs and cool my head.

When I went to pay, she said no. I cannot charge. I did nothing. After twisting her arm, she said 10 euros. I gave her 15. Kissed her on the cheek and said see you next year.

Maria is one of the owners of my cave hotel. She washes and irons my clothes. For nothing. Everyone seems to feel sorry for me and want to do with out recompense.

Maria brought me a bowl of big fresh figs. From her garden. I had two for lunch. Delicious!

I spent three hours in the afternoon at the pool. Under an umbrella, of course. The sun was a killer. I already have a deep tan from just walking around.

First, I was alone. Then two young European ladies showed up. Mid 20s. Lovely. Bikini clad. They were enjoying the pool and hot tub. How they could handle the hot tub, I did not know.

A little later two more young ladies arrived. Asians. 20s also. Lovely, as well.

They wanted shade. They set down on the two lounges next to me. The only shady spot available. Bikini clad.

It was my day!

Before the afternoon was over, the four and I had become fast friends. The two Europeans were from Bulgaria. Girl friends on a holiday. The two Asians, China. Also girl friends on a holiday.

They could not speak English. I could not speak their languages. We had a terrific conversation. One of the Bulgarian ladies had brought a bag of fresh vegetables and fruit to eat. The bag was shared. I enjoyed figs again and a banana.

I wondered how they could afford Santorini. So young.

Last night was dinner at Taverna Katina. My favorite restaurant on Santorini. Set at the base of a mammoth cliff directly on the water. I once again sat on the very edge of the pier. If I swayed too much one way, I would have been in.

I ate at Taverna Katina 3-4 times last year. Three times again 3 weeks ago. I was remembered. A nice feeling.

I did not need the menu. I enjoyed a fish egg salad and greens for appetizers. The fish eggs were crushed and mixed into some kind of soft cheese with a touch of olive oil. The greens boiled and served covered with a touch of oil.

My entre was sea bass. I have come to love sea bass. The fish is splayed, grilled and then covered with a touch of olive oil. Olive oil on everything in Greece! Sea bass has a sweet taste to it.

I enjoyed the entire meal.

Maria’s husband Nikos drove me to and then picked me up from the restaurant. Great people! I do not believe they do this for everyone. I made two good friends of them last year.

Enjoy your day!