YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE…..

Some things are difficult to believe. Such as the story I am about to relate.

Two years ago, a new cave hotel opened in Oia. Adronis Suites. About 300 feet from Nikos’ place where I am staying. Everyone tells me the new cave hotel is expensive. Very expensive. How much? Responses varied from $1,000 to $1,500 per night. Hard to believe.

I stopped at the new hotel yesterday. Brochure? No brochure. They handed me their business card and said all I wanted to know would be on internet.

The rooms go for 3,700 euros a night! $5,000 American money!

I find it hard ot believe. I cannot believe it. I lived my life denying myself nothing. Went everywhere, did everything. Never was I asked for that kind of money. And rest assured that had I been asked, I would not have payed it!

Ridiculous!

I watched two young ladies checking in this morning. Early 20s. No way could they afford the place. They were scrawny appearing. Not that good looking. Not kept women if the thought occurred to you.

I have a feeling the hotel is some devious operation. Perhaps money laundering. Who knows. If legitimate, I spent a lifetime in the wrong business. I should have owned a couple of high end hotels like this place.

The wind has become a factor.

Amorgos had the burning sun every day. No humidity. Always cool because of the northwest wind which blew into the bay.

Santorini was hot yesterday. Hot hot. Like I cannot take anymore hot. No wind. More accurately stated, no wind on my side of the cliff. The Oia side.

The cooling wind comes from the northwest for Santorini, also. However, Oia faces southwest. The caves and Oia life are over the crest of the hill facing southwest. The cold northwest wind only 500 feet away. But on the other side of the crest. Ergo, the mountain itself blocks the cooling northwest wind for those of us on the southwest side.

The choice is the view or comfort. The view is worth the discomfort.

Oia’s evenings are cool. There is no humidity day or night here. The masterful wind from the northwest is called meltemi. It only exists in July and August. Then gone until the following year.

During the winter, the wind comes from the southwest. It reverses itself. Nikos said starting in late October the wind is so cold, even he and his family move to another part of the island.

I mentioned the huge number of cats on Amorgos. I rarely saw a dog. I recall my last 1 1/2 hours standing on the concrete port dock in Amorgosw in the boiling sun waiting for the ferry boat to arrive. While standing there, an elderly woman opened the door to her home. Out she came followed by 15 cats. I counted them.

On Santorini, I have only seen dogs. Many of them. Not a cat yet, though I am sure they are here.

Dinner last night was spectacular. I was tired. Heat exhaustion. I did not want to walk far. Ended up in a nearby tiny restaurant. Sat outside on the deck.

I asked what was good. Something different is cooked every evening. I wanted lamb chops. He said…..lamb on the spit!

We had a language problem. I made it known I would like to go in the kitchen and look at the lamb cooking. I was allowed to so do.

The cook was happy to see me. He was probably in his 60s. Bald headed. Fat. No shirt. Bare to the waist. Sweating big time. Chopping something up with a huge cleaver. Which he handled with precision.

There on the spit was this large former sheep turning and cooking. Actually being kept warm. It looked already cooked. Juices dripping off it.

I had lamb on the spit. I am convinced it was lamb and not goat. It looked like a lamb cooking and tasted unquestionably like lamb. I have never enjoyed a more tasteful piece of lamb. Juices still moist. Tender. Just the right amount of fatty taste.

When I finished, I went in the kitchen to congratulate the cook. Actually, thank him. I could see from the look on his face that I had made his evening.

The heat is already up today. I feel like I am in a blast furnace. I have walked. As soon as I finish here, I am going down to the pool to cool off.

Enjoy your day!

MONASTERY OF PANGIA HOZOVIOTISSA

Spent some time yesterday chatting with Spyros. Turns out he is a prominent person in Katapola. Besides his computer/internet skills, he is Secretary of what I would describe as the local Chamber of Commerce. Called here the Association of Katapolis’ Businesses.

An interesting conversation. We covered my reaction to Katapolis, its businesses and people. All favorable. We also covered Greek politics. A today hotbed.

I had no plans for the afternoon. A stupid sudden urge hit me. Go back and revisit the Monastery from last year. The Monastery of Pangia Hozoviotissa. It was a killer walk uphill last year. I made it. I swore however, never again. I did not keep my word.

A short bus ride and I was there at the foot of the hill. Let me put everything in perspective. The Monastery was built into the side of a cliff. Back around 1100 A.D., some King was sitting on the beach and an icon of the Blessed Virgin washed up on shore at his feet. He took it as a sign from Above. He had this magnificent I do not know how it was conctructed monastery built into the side of the hill to honor the Blessed Virgin and God.

For a normal person, the walk up takes about 15 minutes. For me, it took 30 yesterday. Not bad. I went slow. People passed me. I did not care. The steps/path was a narrow walk way winding around the cliff. I made it and did not feel as bad as last year. In fact, I felt nothing adverse. God was on my side! The wind, also. A strong wind was at my back.

Nothing inside had changed in a year, except for the Monk talking with me. A different one. He spoke English. Wanted to know where I was from. Key West. He knew of Key West. A bad place. People take their clothes off. I jokingly asked if he had been watching Fantasy Fest on the internet.

He was curious as to what I did. I explained Key West Lou to him.

There is a book guests are asked to sign. I had signed it as Louis Petrone. Several guests had signed after me. He said you must sign as Key West Lou. He then signed my name for me as Key West Lou with the date.

I am immortalized as Key West Lou in a religious place!

Dinner last night was at a new restaurant. Rita, the American living on Amorgos, had suggested I try the Corner Restaurant. I did. Good meal! No, a great meal! Steamed greens in oil and bruschette to start. Lamb chops as the main. These were for real. The best yet. More than I could eat.

I have been working at my KONK Life column since 8:30 this morning. Took me five hours. A bit long. However that is the time that was required to tell the story. It will be published next Thursday. The title is Flora’s Story.

So much for yesterday and this morning.

Enjoy your Sunday!

OTHER SIDE OF THE BAY

Yesterday I walked around to the other side of the bay. A big distance!

I had already walked a couple of times the same route. However, I stopped where the concrete roadway ended. At the end of the line were two junk cars and a dirt path. The end of the civilized world for me.

From where I sit on my terrace, I can see directly to the other side the bay. What I see is a Church of sorts. All of one inch high to my vision because of the distance. There is also a minimal scattering of homes. There had to be a way to get to the Church and homes beyond the junk cars and concrete road.

There was. I found it. Three hundred feet up the dirt path was a narrow paved road. I followed the road to the Church. Unfortunately, it was locked. That is the second Church I have tried to enter on Amorgos that was closed. The Last Supper Church in Milan said I had to leave minutes after I arrived. The Church was closing. Amoros’ two churches closed. I am never going to be redeemed!

Later in the evening., I was discussing the trip with some neighbors. We were trying to determine how far across the Church was. How wide the bay. Someone mentioned it was farther than Tiger Woods could drive. The consensus was at least 2 miles.

The other side of the bay was interesting. Beautiful goes without saying. Besides the tiny Church, there was a taverna. A tavern in English. Also scattered homes, small coves, a lot of olive trees, and a man on a donkey. A donkey being the reliable and cheapest mode of travel on the island.

A big walk for me! Definitely at least 3 miles. Probably more.

When I returned to my rooms, I was exhausted. Nap time. When I woke, it was too late to catch the bus to Chora.

I was chatting with my neighbors and we decided to have a party on my terrace. The biggest spot in the complex.

We were American, French, Australian, and English. We chipped in and had take out. Take out exists everywhere.

The menu was vine leaves stuffed with rice and gyros. Pork and lamb. Followed by a series of Greek cakes. Plus alcohol, of course. Wine, beer, and gin.

A good time!

I only spent two nights in Athens. Five in Santorini. My total time on Amorgos will be a bit longer than three weeks. What I am about to convey, I did not notice in Athens or Santorini. The people are not the same as last year. The exuberance is gone. People are quiet. They will speak when spoken to. However, they are not as engaging as last year.

Who knows.

Spyros has become a friend. The internet guru who owns the internet store I am working from. He commented this morning that he did not see me last night. The cafe area/nightlife in Kapatola is small. An absence easy to note. I am glad Sypyos missed me.

Enjoy your day!

TOILET PAPER SAGA

Before I get into the down and dirty, let me tell you how happy I am! No, I did not get married nor did I meet a lovely new woman. My data port connection is talking to my computers! Took two years. A shame.

I blame Verizon. I go into their Key West store and all the staff really do is sell. They know from nothing. They make like they do, however. Even Verizon’s alleged telephone professional staff is wanting.

I am on a little island called Amorgos in Greece. I keep saying the island is a hundred years behind the times. It is. On this tiny out of the way place, I discovered Spyros. Spyros Tsimelas. He lives on Amorgos all year long. He operates a small five computer internet store. The only game in town. I have been arriving at 10 every morning when he opens to do my blog and take care of other matters.

We got to talking about my problem. He asked to take a look at my equipment. Said he enjoyed working things out. Twenty four hours later, it all works. He figured out the two major problems and corrected them. He made a couple of other adjustments.

I label him a great man! He succeeded in less than 24 hours where Verizon failed over 2 years!

His bill was 15 euros. I said no way. I gave him 50. He was reluctant to take it. He finally did. Things are not valued as highly on Amorgos as back in the States.

Toilet paper has recently been in the news. Venezuela has a shortage. A real problem. They use 125 million rolls a month. They are coming up 40 million short. People are without. They are having to make do in other ways. It took one woman two weeks to find one roll of toilet paper she could buy.

Toilet paper on Amorgos is a problem, also! Though not in the same way as Venezuela.

I went into the men’s room at Mythos’ restaurant yesterday. Over the toilet was a sign: DO NOT THROW TOILET PAPER IN TOILETTE. Back at Eleni’s pension where I am staying, Eleni herself told me not to flush the toilet paper down the toilet.

There is a waste basket next to a toilet. The directions everywhere are to place the used toilet paper in the basket.

I suspect the problem has to do with the overall antiquated sewage system on the island.

There are some things I cannot do. Man has only one orifice requiring the use of toilet paper. I could not, I repeat, I could not, open the waste basket and drop my used toilet paper on top of the other tainted toilet paper. Gross!

Instead, I do it the usual way. I flush it down the toilet. If a disaster occurs or I am caught, I will say I did not see the sign, I forgot, I did not know, or what have you.

We all have limitations.

My yesterday was pleasant. I am doing basically nothing every day. Floating along.

I enjoyed lunch at a cafe on the port. Drank an ouzo afterwards. The view was spectacular. Magnificent probably a better description. The mountains, the clouds below the top of some, the white houses with blue trim, a blue sky, and water equally blue. I enjoyed!

Took a walk. Not 3 miles or anything close. About one mile. That was all I felt like doing. Then it was a nap for me. A two hour one.

Flora has come in to my life. She is the cleaning lady at Eleni’s where I am staying. She saw my clean but unpressed clothes on the couch. Maria washed them one last time, but could not get the ironing in. I have been wearing shirts and shorts out of the wash. Crushed also in the suitcase from the trip from Santorini to Amorgos. Wrinkled is not an apt description. Worse.

Flora said she would be happy to iron. She needed the extra money. Go to it, I said. I told her I was going to bed for a nap. Wake me when you are finished.

I woke two hours later. She was still at it. Finally, finished. Total time 2 1/2 hours.

We had made no deal as to how much. I handed her 20 euros. $30 American money. She said too much. I said, no. Keep it. She said no, again. Finally, she relented. Her eyes were tear filled as she did. Turns out Flora is from Albania. She is a college educated woman. 41. Teaches school. Single. Owns a home. She has a mortgage. Her teaching earnings are 300 euros a month. $400 American money. She does not get paid while not working. So she came to Amorgos for summer work. Ended up as the cleaning lady at Eleni’s. She is happy to have the job.

With the tears starting to slide out of her eyes, she said you have no idea how much money this is to me. My teacher salary amounts to 10 euros a day. Twenty euros represents two days’ pay. You have given me two days’ pay for 2 1/2 hours work.

Sometimes we do not know how good we have it.

Dinner was at Sunset. Mythos. I enjoyed the finest meal I have had thus far on the trip. Started with steamed greens covered with oil. Then the very best…..Roast lamb with potatoes done in the oven. I was told I would have to wait a half hour as it was cooked fresh. Where was I going? The meal was worth waiting for! Wow!

Of course, the meat was not lamb. It was that other little animal. Goat. I did not have the heart to confront the owner with the issue. I have become knowledgeable. I can tell the difference. It is not in the taste. It is in the form. The bone structure accompanying the meat is different.

There were five people sitting nearby. Early 20s. Four young ladies and one man. They caught my attention. They were all laughing and talking in sign language. Two of the ladies were apparently deaf and dumb. The two were talking everyone’s ears off, so to speak. The two were also absolutely beautiful! Hair, make up, attire all perfect. These were today ladies on an Amorgos holiday.

Another experience evidencing we do not know how good we have it. I was enjoying a conversation with two Italian ladies sitting at the next table. We were idling the time over coffee. Mythos gave us a dish of fresh watermelon on the house. Black seeds galore.

I mentioned that we have watermelon without seeds available in the United States. They were surprised. No seeds? Italian watermelon comes only with seeds.

I told them about seedless grapes. Again, surprise. They had never heard of them.

The conversation stayed on food. They told me they now have egg whites in bottles. New to Italy. I told them we have had egg whites for years.

An interesting world we live in.

Enjoy your day!

A QUIET DAY IN ANOTHER PARADISE

Yesterday…..

Not all days are exciting and new. The thrill of discovery not always there. Some are quiet and laid back. My yesterday was.

Did my duty for God and country. The blog! At Spyros’s internet store. Spyros runs a pleasant operation. A clean updated store. Five relatively new computers. His personality helpful. The store is located on a lovely narrow walkway. Attractive stores within my view. I work looking out the window. Immediately across is the international book store. American newspapers expensive. Generally a week old.

Lunched at Mythos. An octopus salad. Octopus, lettuce and tomatoes in a light oil sauce. I do not know how Greeks would survive without oil. If olive trees ever get sick, Greek restaurants are in trouble!

The octopus was cooked. Delicious. Tender. The texture of sponge cake.

I walked after the lunch. A downer! I learned that my 3 mile walk from the day before was really 1 1/2 miles. Still better than nothing. I will get to 3 miles on this trip. I am committed.

Actually, I got to 2 miles yesterday. In the evening after dinner I walked a half mile. It was a half mile.

I keep referring to one of my favorite restaurants without naming it. I finally learned the name last night when I had dinner there. The Mouragio Restaurant. Dimitris is the owner and cook. A few days ago, I mentioned he wears crocs, also. Black ones. Unusual since Greece is not croc country.

Stuffed vines and mousaka for dinner. The place was empty when I arrived. When I left, there was not a table to be had. Mostly local customers. The two items for dinner, bread, a large bottle of water and one ozou. They charge for bread in Greece. Cost: 13 euros. About $17 American money.

Kapatola is empty. The festival guests have left. It is like Key West after a big weekend of some celebration or other.

Turkey is represented here by several sailboats and a very large vessel. The flags tell me the country of origin.

There was an exceptionally large power boat. One hundred feet plus. A yacht. Bearing a Turkish flag.

I paid attention to the yacht. There were three 30ish fellows on board. Dressed very casually. Drinking beer.

I suspected at the time that they were too young to have such a magnificent vessel. The boat probably cost $20-$30 million. They were either captaining the boat to wherever the owner might be or were drug dealers. It takes big money to own a boat like that.

After dinner, I walked by the yacht again. A magnificent table had been set on the rear deck of the boat. White table clothe and several types of fancy glassware. The three guys were sitting down having dinner. One was puffing a cigar. The three were being waited on by what was obviously the boat’s waitress/servant. A lady dressed in a white blouse and black pants.

My vote is they were drug dealers.

I loaded six novels in my tablet before leaving Key West two weeks ago. Yesterday, I finished the sixth and last one. I love reading so it did not bother me.

I want to briefly review the books with you. I do so in the order they impressed me.

Eisenhower in War and Peace by Jean Edward Smith was by far the best. As mentioned a few days ago, the author exposed Eisenhower’s warts. If you think about it, every President has had them.

Then Paris by Edward Rutherford. Two years ago I read another Rutherford novel. It was entitled New York. Loved it!

Rutherford writes in a strange style. He takes a person and traces the lineage/descendants from the start of the community to present day. That is how he tells about the city. The personal interrelationships keep you glued to the book.

The next was Burt Bacharach’s Anyone Who Had A Heart. His autobiography. Loved it! His ups and downs. Told in some places with humor, in other sadness. No punches pulled. He was once married to Angie Dickinson. They had an autistic child. A sad story. Autism was not a known disease/problem back then. So the daughter was never effectively treated. When she could be treated, it was too late. She committed suicide.

Thomas Jefferson – The Art of Power by Jon Meahcam. I am a history freak. The facts were interesting. I learned much. However, the writing style encumbered me. The sentences were too long. Sometime 5-6lines, compounded, etc. For me, not smooth reading.

The book was obviously the work of a scholar. It reminded me of a legal brief or educational treatise. Everything documented.

Meacham is a popular media person. He was editor of some big time weekly magazine till about two years ago. Now he is most frequently seen on MSNBC’s Morning Joe.

I had a hard time enjoying the book.

Next was Best Kept Secret by Jeffrey Arthur. Strange, but I cannot recall anything about it. Obviously the book made an impression on me (said with tongue in cheek).

The last novel was No Easy Day by Mark Owen. Do not bother reading it. Boring.

I selected the book because the author was one of the super duper Seals in on the raid that killed Osama Bin Laden. He was on the steps in back of the Seal who actually shot Bin Laden in the head.

The Bin Laden story came at the end of the book and was quite short. Most of the book was dedicated to what it took to be a Seal and the category above which required even more from an individual. Seal training was not my interest. Bin Laden’s demise was.

The cold wind is gone. I was up at 7 this morning sitting on the terrace. Glorious. Me, the sea and a mountain. I enjoyed a cup of coffee and just sat taking it in. The only sound was the water rushing towards shore. No other. Not even a bird.

Around 8 in the morning, the locals and some visitors walked by the terrace on their way to the beach. The path is immediately to my left. The same people swim every morning. All ages. Not for long. It is their exercise time.

I have yet to put my feet into the Aegean Sea.

The salt must be heavy in the water. Everyone seems to be floating on their backs with ease.

I am into cookies. They looked good in the bakery I frequent. I enjoyed them for breakfast yesterday morning.

I found another bakery last night. I bought their cookies this morning. Good! Like you would not believe! Texture and taste outstanding! I ate the whole dozen in one sitting. I do not feel guilty. This is only the second time on this trip that I have pigged out. Actually, I am eating less than normal. I even believe I may have lost a pound or two. My pants are more difficult to keep up.

Enjoy your day!

NOT A BAD BIRTHDAY

Yesterday a good birthday. Spent the day selfishly. Doing what I wanted. No wife, friend or foe to accommodate. Just Louis.

Some observations to begin.

This morning was the best yet in Amorgos. I sat outside on the terrace reading till I left for the internet store at noon. The sun warm. Comfortable. It was impossible to sit out early morning till today because of the cold winds.

The locals tell me the winds come three days at a time from the northwest. Then they are gone. This is my fourth day on Amorgos. The natives were correct.

Bikinis. I have never seen a woman in a bikini that I did not like. The thought recurred to me this morning as I was walking to the internet store. With such great winds, sailing boats frequent the area. There were nine docked this morning. Each with one or more women on board. All in bikinis. Whether tall, short, slender bodied, heavy or what have you, a woman in a bikini is a sight to behold. All lovely. All sexy.

I have been on this trip two weeks. I loaded six books into my tablet before I left. I figured it would take me two months to read them. I am on my sixth and last book today. I will need to reload.

I finished Jefferson this morning. Terrific! I started Burt Bacharach’s book thereafter. Bacharach is the famous composer. What a book! I am only about fifty pages into it and love it! This guy has a sense of humor! Read his book!

I spent 4.5 hours yesterday at the internet store. Two tasks confronted me. I had to do next week’s KONK Life column. I called it Reflections. Commented on some events world wide. Then the blog. It’s a good thing I enjoy all this writing!

Lunch was Mythos. The restaurant has become another favorite. On the port and water, also.

Mythos’ owner is Vangelis. His first name. He and his family run the place. Vangelis, his wife, 15 year old daughter, and 10 year old son. There is also a 14 month baby daughter who walks around. Yes, she walks. Toddles. To the entertainment of the customers. A hard working family!

Why, I do not know. I ordered a huge glass of draught beer! I hate beer! A gallon jug! Not really that big, however. Though almost quart size.

Felt a bit bloated afterwards. Decided to walk.

My health has been so so. My fault. Stopped exercising in any fashion ages ago. Have been trying to get back into shape.

I said Louis, you are 78 today. Lets see how good you can do.

I walked around the bay. Three miles. I have not walked three miles in years. Did it. And felt no anguish afterwards.

I was proud of myself.

Back to Mythos for a moment. The bread on Amorgos is great. Thick cut with a strong hard crust. Not crispy, however. I have difficulty biting and chewing the crust. So I have taken to breaking away the soft portion within the crust and leaving the crust.

Vangelis came by with the baby. He said excuse me and took a piece of crust from my table. He gave it to the baby . She chewed it easily with the few teeth she had. I thought I have $35,000 teeth and cannot do what the baby does.

I have noticed that people of all ages sit around tables at the cafes playing a game. Looked familiar. It was. They play backgammon! Call it tavli.

Backgammon was popular back in the 1970s. I can remember playing it all the time at the Jockey Club in Miami. I guess it took a while to reach Amorgos. The observation is consistent with my thought that Amorgos is from another time.

Ran into my British widow friend Alice. If you are doing nothing, join me, she said. She had rented a car and wanted to show me the goats.

We drove up a mountain. There were clouds. First, we were below the clouds. Then in the clouds. Then on top of the clouds. Just like in an airplane. The only other time I had this experience was last year in Courmier. My chalet was half way up Mont Blanc. I woke one morning to a cloud bed below me.

We came upon the goats. She was correct. Had to be at least 200 of them. All beautiful, short, brown and black, and short in stature.

I was back to the Mythos Restaurant at 7. I had reserved a table. The stage for the music festival was right in front of the restaurant.

A great show. Young people from adjoining islands singing, dancing and playing music. Violins were the primary instrument. Some guitars. A small drum or two.

Dancing was in native costumes.

The Greek Orthodox priest I had seen earlier in the day was on stage playing with the teenagers.

Music loud. Very loud. Big time amplification.

The show most enjoyable! A pleasant way to spend the evening. Eating, drinking and being entertained in that fashion.

Spyros Tsimelas owns the internet store I am working out of. He was there last night. He had an important role. Spyros is the computer/internet guru on the island. The entire festival was being ustreamed on the internet. His responsibility.

I ordered stuffed calamari for dinner. Not what grandmother made. Hers were small and thin stuffed with bread crumbs, eggs and what have you. This was one calamari. Huge. Four by three inches. Thick walled. Stuffed with feta cheese, tomatoes and peppers. Delicious! I could not finish it. I left half the meal on the plate.

Vangelis came over and asked if I did not like the food. I learned later that in Europe people clean their plates. Not to do so is considered an insult to the cook.

To my Italian readers, although the walls of the calamari were 1/4 inch thick, the meat was tender. As tender as if it were as thin as the calamari prepared in the United States.

Time for lunch. Then, I do not know.

Enjoy your day!