DAY 16

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I was dead last night! The volcano did me in!

I did yesterday’s blog till 8 in the evening. Then I satisfied a need. For whatever reason, I had a desire for a chocolate milkshake. Yes, they sell them in Oia. It was delicious!

I was back in my cave by 9 and soon sound asleep. The sleep of the dead. The volcano responsible therefore.

I have been in Santorini longer than planned. I was to leave last Saturday. Put it off to Sunday. Then to today, Tuesday. Now, tomorrow. I definitely will be leaving tomorrow. Wednesday.

Destination Mykonos.

Going by boat. Speed boat. So called. Probaly a big boat as yesterday. Makes three stops before reaching Mykonos.

I do not have a place to stay. Unusual for me. I am normally a planner. But this trip is loosey goosey. I am told to worry not. A lot of places to stay in Mykonos. Not yet the season.

Donna and Terri wrote me. We have friends in Mykonos. She told me a bar to go to. Terri sang for the owners in New York. Bobby Peoscue, probaly spelled his name wrong, is playing piano there. He worked the place where Terri sang when she first came to Key West.

Loosey goosay not working in Mykonois. I am only staying three nights. I am anxious to move on to Fourni-Korseon. In English, Pirate’s Cove.

Fourni, as it is so called, is a very small island with a very small village. Only one bar. Serves the same one meal all day.

The attraction of Fourni is its expatriates. Writers, musicians, entrepreneurs, etc. I am told my time there will be enjoyable and well spent. The expatriates look forward to the few guests who arrive to visit their island

I do not know how long I will be in Fourni. Perhaps a couple of weeks. Where, then? I am thinking Morroco or Portofino. I have met many Morocco natives on this trip. They make their homeland sound interesting. Although a Muslim country, the people dance to their own tune. Women dress as in the USA. Mini skirts in vogue. Men and women walk the streets hand in hand. The young well educated. A fun place.

They speak of interesting historical places. Like Casablanca, the Casbah and the like. Shades of Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman and Tony Martin. Even Frank Sinatra. I saw Sinatra in person at the Paramount Theatre on stage in 1943. My father took me. I was 8 years old. This young kid, skinny, with a big bow tie sang. The movie running with the live Sinatra was The Casbah with Tony Martin. The recollection fixed in my mind.

China is starting to tickle my fancy. I have met many Chinese here in Santorini on vacation. All interestig. All mysterious.

Portofino is a must. Have to get everything worked out. decision time later. I have the time.

The Greek language is difficult to absorb. I have mentioned the katini I dined at three evenings. The one at the base of a lava cliff on the sea. I thought the place was a katini. In my mind, a canteen. The sign said Katina. Turns out Katina is trhe family name of the persons owning the restaurtsant.

The name of the place turns out to be Fish Eatry. However that is in English. The sign in Greek reads YapotaBepva. I am staying on the island of Santorini. The name Santorini is on the sign, also. In Greek. It read Eantopinh. Do you wonder why I make mistakes in translation?

Some intreresting tidbits about Santorini.

The locals dress in black. Men and women alike. All black. The men wear black jeans and black tee shirts who work on the boats. How they stand the heat, I do not know.

Oia wakes up at 9 in the morning. Before then, the locals are busy sweeping in front of their stores, otherwise claeaning up, doing pre opening tasks. They talk with each other. Not a precise description. They yell. A hundred feet away, they communicate in loud tones. Reminded me of the Italian neighboirhood in Utica where I grew up.

Comes 9, everything goes silent. And stays that way til the next morning.

Water a problem. As everywhere. Santorini is a small island. No wells. Water is brought in by tanker. Some in large vats, some in bottles. It is said it is better to drink bottled water as the tanked water is not so good.

Everyone has water problems. Key West brings water in also. Except Key West gets it by pipe from Miami.

There are two super markets on the walk above the caves. Not really super markets, though so called. Really small grocery stores stacked with every conceivable thing.

I have been going to the one closest to me. The owner cheats. No matter how many times I buy the same thing, it is always a different price. By as much as 3 euros.

No cable TV here. Antennas like in the 1960s on rooftops.

Electric power via solar panels. One on each house. More on hotels. Each rthe size of a door. with a small tank behind each one. Not covering the entire roof as we are being told in Key West. As I understand it, solar panels in the U.S. are cheap. It is the labor that is costly. But we cover the entire roof in the U.S. Someone should look into the Greek concept.

You pay for bread in a restaurant. A small basket is anywhere from 1 euro to 2.5 euros. The bread sucks. The only food in Greece I have not enjoyed. It all tastes
the same no matter where you eat. Bland with a soft/hard crust.

On the other hand, other type baked goods are delicious. Like the breakfast rolls I enjoy each morning.

Santorini is a vacation place. The season is the summer months. However, the island is open for business from April 1 to November 1. Otherwaise closed down. It gets very cold here in the winter.

Locals work 7 days a week. Some froim 9 to 9. Others different evening hours. Hotel workers from 7 to 9. These are all morning to night times.

They do not complain. This is their time to make it. An industrious people.

It is now June. The weather is warm by day. Very warm. Absolutely no humidity. I have not sweat once no matter what I wqas doing. Evenings are cold, however. A sweater or jacket required. They tell me it remains that way in July and August.

So much for today. Chat with you in the morning.

Enjoy your day!

Day 8

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When I saw Key West for the first time twenty five years ago, I knew almost immediately it was a place I wanted to be. So too with Santorini.

You just know.

My day yesterday started with an early morning flight from Athens to Santorini. Olympic Airlines. A one half hour flight. On a big jet. Packed.

The plane took off. The pilot said we are heading to an elevation of 17,000 feet. Once we reached that point, the plane started its descent. You got it! The plane ride was an ascent to 17,000 feet and then an immediate descent into the Santorini airport.

Again young stewardesses. That is the word. Stewardesses. Thin. No more than size 4s. Hair swept back and up. For the little hats they perched on their heads when we landed.

Nikos met me at the airport. I never had met nor known Nikos before. Nikos and his wife Maria own some cave houses which they rent out. I was booked into one of those cave houses.

Nikos about 5′ 6″. Thin. Muscle bound. I would estimate around 60. Skin tough and weather beaten by the sun.

He embraced me like a long lost friend. A mutual acquaintance had arranged for me to stay at Nikos’ place. Nikos pointed out on the drive to his caves that he never picks anyone up at the airport. He was only doing so because a mutual friend had told him to take good care of me. I was grateful

The formal name of the caves is Filotera Cave Houses. I do not know what filotera means. I googled it and could only come up with a list of motels, hotels and other cave accommodations on Santorini. Everything is filotera here.

The ride from the airport was an experience. Uncomfortable.

Nikos’ place was an hour drive from the airport. Straight up a hill. Mountain may be a better description. A very narrow two lane road with a drop off on the upward side thousands of feet into the sea. I was up up and away.

Drivers speed here. They come at each other at horrendous speeds. The road was very curvy. At every turn I saw an accident in the making. Especially when a bus came at us!

The views were spectacular. The heights dramatic. I have never been closer to God. In more ways than one.

Maria met us. Her appearance as her husband’s, except Maria was shorter and on the heavy side. It was hugs and kisses all around. I met the whole family. Daughter and grandchildren.

It was Maria’s birthday. She sent a piece of her birthday cake to my cave.

These caves are another world.

Santorini was once one large island. About 1,500 years before Christ (everything is before Christ in this part of the world), there was a huge volcanic explosion. Reportedly the largest ever known to man before and since. Broke Santorini into several islands. Santorini the largest.

The very first volcano was a long time back. Six hundred fifty thousand years. ago. The most recent in 1950.

Natural tragedy appears common to the area. There was a violent earthquake in 1956 which destroyed many old structures on the island. Earthquakes and I are becoming common place on this trip.

One side of Santorini ended up being a very high and steep cliff running from the heavens thousands of feet into the ocean. Caves developed. Home for me is one of those caves. Fear not, the accommodations are wonderful. Do not let the term caves scare you. All modern amenities. Only negative, no windows. Not for the claustrophobic. I have my own small white terrace hewed out of the cliff in front. A place where one can sit and contemplate his navel.

I can see the four islands made by the volcanic eruption. The eruption actually split a big island down the middle into two islands as well as several small ones. Smoke and sulphur can still be seen coming from the volcano itself.

Tradition has many tales. It is claimed that Santorini is the place where Moses and his people made their exodus from Egypt. The plagues which afflicted the Pharoah and Egyptians are the same as were experienced on Santorini at the time of the volcanic eruption. Also, the breaking up of the island is said to reflect the parting of the waters by Moses. Another historical claim  is that the Atlantis of old was a part of Santorini and now lies somewhere below the sea in the area.

The waters are extremely deep around Santorini. Especially in the area of the volcano. So the tale may have some truth.

Sunset is big here. As in Key West. I rarely go to a sunset anymore in Key West. Seen one, seen them all. Too many people.

I went to the sunset last night. When in Rome, etc. Never again.

The sunset was around a corner of the island. I had about a one mile walk to it. Uphill all the way. Sometimes at a 45 degree angle. Steps everywhere. No consistency between the distance or height of each. The paved area marble. Slippery.

I was exhausted when I arrived at the annointed place. Pleased I had not fallen. Crushed into and with a mass of people just as in Mallory Square.

My sunset hours the rest of this trip will be spent on my little terrace with a drink in hand.

Many outdoor cafes along the top of the cliff. I stopped at one and enjoyed a delicious dish of mousaka. Prices dramatically cheap.

Then back to my cave and sleep. The weather cool. I slept like a baby all night. The first time I have done so on this trip.

This morning there was a knock on the cave door. Yes, there are doors. It was a boy with coffee and bread. Nikos had sent them to me for breakfast. The bread was hot. Just out of the oven. I broke off a chunk and enjoyed.

More tomorrow. Do not miss any of it. This is one exciting place!

Enjoy your day!