A MESS

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Wi Fi did me in yesterday! I was completing, correcting and revising my blog. The Wi Fi kept going in and out. Somehow the final product did not get published. An earlier one did. With all the misspellings and improper grammar.

I did not know till this morning. I am profoundly sorry. I take too much pride in the product to have sent it off in the fashion it was received.

The blog was corrected this morning. It was good to go and is good to read.

Two nights ago Maria told me yesterday would be the hottest day of the summer. It was! What heat! Overbearing!

I have never had need to use the air conditioning in my cave. Yes, even caves have air conditioning. Yesterday, I did. Then prostrated myself on the bed for 4-5 hours till the sun receded over the cliff to the west.

Before the heat hit me, I was walking. I realized very soon how difficult it would be. I stopped into Mezzo to get out of the heat and have lunch.

Even at 78, I get cravings. I have been thinking of a chocolate milk shake the past few days. I satisfied my desire yesterday. A chocolate shake for lunch! I am still a kid at 78.

I spent parts of the day off and on working on next week’s KONK Life column. The Real America. It will be short and hard hitting. Another eye opener.

Last night was lamb on the spit again at the same taverna where I enjoyed it two nights earlier. Same good! Same taste!

I sense I am mellowing out. First time in ages. A good feeling.

Enjoy your day!

NO ALBINO ANYTHING ON AMORGOS

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It’s called living and learning!

I saw a big white goat a few days ago. I assumed it was an albino goat and reported it as such.

Wednesday, I rented a car to drive the island exploring. As I came around a very tight curve, what do I behold on the road walking towards me? Two white goats! There cannot be three albino goats on this small island. It would be like finding three albino chickens in Key West.

Thursday, I was walking one of the many dirt paths on Amorgos. I saw a pure white mule. Would you believe!

An albino mule?

This time I was a bit cautious. I discussed the mule and goats with some friends afterwards. There are many white mules on Amorgos. Why white, I do not know. But here they are! There are also many white goats.

Obviously an albino expert I am not!

While driving around Wednesday, I found a lovely small beach. A big cove. About fifty bathers. There was a small shack. Hamburgers, beers, and the like. Enjoyed a hamburger and beer and took in the scene.

My car was parked in a line of cars. The lot was not that full when I arrived. Upon leaving, it was car to car.

When I tunred into my car to get in, there was this lovely woman. Standing between her car and mine. Bare ass! She was changing into her bathing suit and I came upon her at the right moment.

I smiled. She smiled. I turned my back and walked away. A gentleman am I. What more could I see anyhow? I had seen it all.

I gave her a few moments and returned. She was just walking away. Smiled again and said something in Greek which I assume was thank you.

Another port concert Wednesday night. I ate at Mythos so I could watch. Terrific! Many violins. Violins are big musical instruments in Greece. A 50ish stout woman was singing. Turns out she has had a successful career as a singer. I enjoyed the show! Traditional Greek music. It had the Greek beat. People jumping up and dancing. All ages.

I met Maria thursday. She gave me a manicure and pedicure. Turns out her young 20s son was one of the featured violin performers the night before.

My finger nails and toe nails were a disaster. Three plus weeks. I could find no clippers to buy. Finally discovered there was a woman in Chora who gave mmanicures and pedicures. Even better, she would come to your hotel/apartment.

I tracked her down. The lady was Maria.

We got together yesterday afternoon at my apartment. We enjoyed each other’s company tremendously. Maria has a terrific sense of humor. Aided of course by the three gins we each consumed during the process.

I still have all my toes and fingers!

Maria is 49, married 23 years and lives full time on Amorgos. She resides in the old town. Chora. She also has a place of business in Chora to do manicures and pedicures. She is professional at her work.

Maria and her husband also have side businesses.

Katwi is the name of their Chora store. They make special soaps containing olive oil, creams with olive oil, marmaledes from their own garden fruits, and a traditional Greek drink called raki psimeni. The raki is made with burnt sugar. I look forward to tasting it.

Maria and her husband are multi-faceted. They also raise chickens and sell them to the local restaurants. In addition, till recently a carpentry business. The building where they did the work burned down. No insurance. Very few have insurance for anything on this small island.

The fire has created many problems. They still owe the bank on the mortgage. I felt sorry for them. She described the situation as having to start all over again.

We talked about business generally. Tourism is everything. Come September, there is no more money to be made till next summer. Business has been down not only on Amorgos, but in all of Greece. Her estimate is 30 per cent. She envisons hard days ahead.

Her husband’s name is Nikolas. I met him when he came to pick her up. A nice guy. Unfortunately, we were not able to communicate. He spoke no English and I no greek.

Maria was one of the persons who told me there are white mules all over Amorogos. I got into the lamb chop scenario with her, also. I am not conviced yet that the lamb is lamb. She told me I was correct. The lamb is really goat.

I knew I was right! Though it tastes as good as the real stuff. In fact, I had “lamb” chops for dinner last night.

I am hoping to have lunch today with Spyros. I enjoy talking with him. He is a knowledgeable businessman and familiar with Greek politics.

Enjoy your day!

DAY 11

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Ho ho Yogi Bear! I am having a terrific time!

Donkeys have become a part of my life all of a sudden. First in Navarro when I discovered horsemeat and donkey meat were sold in butcher shops for human consumption. Donkey was viewed to horsemeat as veal is to cattle meat. Now donkeys in Santorini.

Before I made the trip, many told me to be sure to ride the donkeys up and down the hill. The hill that in reality is a mountain of lava.

I saw the donkeys yesterday for the first time. I was taking a walk along the other road. The road that runs between the cave hotel apartments and lesser accommodations. Actually the other side of the road is where the working people of Santorini live. Much like Stock Island is to Key West.

All of a sudden, I came upon eight donkeys on the side of the road. All saddled up and ready to go. What beautiful animals! I am a horse lover of sorts. The horses that race at Saratoga. Especially up close. Magnificant beasts. So too were these donkeys. Beautiful shiny coats. Ears standing straight up. Big bright eyes. Muscular legs. Very muscular.

These donkeys carry people up and down the side of a nearby lava mountain. On a path running along the side. Along a five foot wide path has been constructed 2,000 feet plus long. It consists of 500 plus steps. The steps of varying widths. A short 3 foot wall on the ocean side.

The ride did not appeal to me. I did not wish to be an ass on an ass. I was fearful of either the donkey or me or both of us falling over the wall. I raised that issue with the man in charge of the donkeys. I think I insulted him. He told me very firmly that no donkey or person had ever even fallen off the path into the ocean.

The path was made of dirt and rocks.

I had Nikos give me a ride in his car down the mountain.

The volcano sitting out in the water is like a magnet. It draws me to it. I have decided to visit the volcano in the next few days. I want to look into the opening and its depths. I want to view the smoke and sulphur and whatever else my eyes can see.

The volcano is not too high. Most of it sunk into the sea. So I should be able to walk to the top.

There is an added attraction. There are springs periodically spraying water and smoke. Baths from the emissions are available on site. I want to bathe in these waters. Supposedly healthful, I will be doing it merely for the experience.

Sanrorini is the largest of the several islands which were born 3,500 years ago when the volcano had its major eruption. It is big. How large, I am not sure. Larger than Key West I do know.

The whole island has a mere 13,000 permanent residents. Compared to Key West which has 19,00.

Santorini is the name of the whole island. There are several villages and towns located on the island. I am staying in Oia, one of those towns. People are nice here. Just as in Key West.

Sociable, helpful.

I spoke of beauty parlor proprietor Catherine Risvani yesterday. Catherine owns the only beauty shop in Oia. One to a town, I guess. Called Hair & Soul. It is a beautifully done small place. Two chairs, two sinks, a manicure station and a counter. Two lovely ladies working for her.  Catherine gave me a manicure this week.

Catherine is lovely in appearance. A typical Grecian beauty. Tall, thin and blond. Hair swept up and somehow tied in back. Interestingly, I have yet to find a Grecian woman who wears her hair down. Catherine also has high cheek bones. Another trait of Grecian women.

The bill for the manicure was 20 euros. About $28 american money. I was out of euros. I asked Catherine if she took credit cards. No. So I took out one of my $100 bills and told her to hold it while I went to the ATM machine for euros. She would not take the $100. Strangers though we were, she trusted me. In a tourist town. Typical of the Greeks here.

Which brings me to Nikos and Maria. Proprietors of my cave accommodation. Nikos and Maria are around 60. Own the Filotera Cave Houses aka Filotera Villas. A superior accommodation. Consistent with historical Santorini.

They and their son Adonis work their asses off. They have staff, but work along with staff from very early morning to late at night.

When I first arrived and met Maria, she was in a dress and apron. Smiling always. She does not speak English. I no Greek. Yet we have had several conversations. Each of us has spoken our native tongue. We understood each other!

I figured after first meeting Maria that she was the typical Mama Mia. A dress and apron. Always cooking and cleaning. Always watching the grandchildren.

Was I wrong!

The next time I saw Maria she was in peddle pushers and a tee shirt. Directing the employees.

Nice people these two.

It was Maria’s birthday the day I arrived. She sent a piece of birthday cake to my rooms. Nikos picked me up at the airport. Nikos drives me where ever I have to go. And picks me up. Their caves are lovely and clean. Very clean. Take a look at them. www.filoteravillas.gr, www.filoteravillas.com and www.santorini.com/hotels/filoteravillas. These sites will give you a flavor of cave living. They will surprise you!

The second day here, their son Adonis showed up with a bottle of wine. He said it was from his father’s vineyards. A special brew. Please enjoy it. I did, the next day. A cross between a white and red. A distinctive special taste.

Yes, Nikos and Maria besides owning the cave villas also own a vineyard and wine producing facility on Santorini. They ship world wide.

Nikos and Maria live across that street I mentioned earlier. In a small apartment less accommodating than the caves. In November, it gets cold on Santorini. They move to their home on the other side of the island. When it gets colder, they move to their home in Athens. During the winter months, they generally take a one to two month trip to the Caribbean or South Pacific.

It gets better.

Santorini and the Greek isles are not the United States. Many amenities we are accustomed to do not exist or are not provided. Like my clothes getting washed and ironed.

I was warned before I embarked on this odyssey that such would be the case. I came prepared. Purchased shirts and shorts at Orvis. That special material that is light, easy to wash and dry. Generally requiring little or no ironing.

I wash my own clothes. For real. Easy. In the bathroom sink. Drop some dishwashing fluid on the clothes. A bit of water. Wash with my hands. Then shake dry.

The clothes still need hanging. Dryers are not common place on the island. Could not hang the clothes in front of my cave accommodation. It would not look right nor would it be proper.

There are clothes lines across the street at the cheaper accommodation. I hung my first washing there to dry. When I returned that evening, Maria came out to greet me. She insisted on ironing my clothes. My saviour in disguise!

If you ever plan to come to Santorini, stay with Nikos and Maria. You cannot do better. Their telephone number is 003022860 71110. Fax number 003022860 71555. E-mail Filotera@otent.gr.

Enough for today.

There is much still to share.

This afternoon I am going to a beach somewhere on this island. Where I am guaranteed seeing bare breasted women. And, if I am lucky, some bare assed ones.

Enjoy your day!