CHORA

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I visited Chora last night. Also known as hora.

Most Greek isles have a Chora. A community of sorts. Generally, a town. Most are medieval in origin. Go back 1,500 to 2,000 years. They still look the same. Unchanged by time. White buildings, narrow walkways.

Choras were built on hilltops. For protective and defensive purposes. Amorgos’ Chora is on top of a tall mountain. Just over the top. So it could not be seen by ships entering the bay. Way back when, pirates were a problem. By constructing their homes just over the crest, the early Greeks were hopeful their community would not be spotted.

If discovered, the set up of the Chora assisted in its defense. The entrance to the Chora was always a very narrow walkway. The attackers were only able to enter single file or two abreast at the most. Chora’s defenders were better able to protect their homes and families and at the same time do the most damage to invaders.

People still live in Chora. Old and young alike. Businesses have opened. Tiny specialty stores and restaurants.

I took the bus to Chora. A ten minute drive. 1.60 euros each way. A bargain.

The buses are magnificent. Large. Air conditioned. Comfortable. The drivers friendly and adept at driving. They have to be. The road up and down is steep and full of dangerous curves. The drivers carry themselves as if they were Captains on a jet airliner.

I walked the same path as last year. You will recall Chora killed me last year. Steps up. Everything up. It was a horrible trip.

This year, I did it with ease. Surprised even myself. I am in better condition.

I went to the same cafe/restaurant as last year. Along the way, I spotted Maria’s store. Maria who did my nails a couple of days ago. Her store is named Kwati. Sells soaps, oils and some foodstuffs. I was especially taken by pint jars of broccoli in oil and garlic.

I sat outside the cafe and drank. Three gins. They were all big. I was surprised. Even had Tanqueray. I sat there close to three hours.

Marie had mentioned I should try raki psimeni. A Greek drink made with burnt sugar. I did. Sweet. Good.

I cannot tell you the name of the restaurant. It was in Greek. Not an easy language written wise. Letters not arabic.

I have discovered that when I ask someone to spell a Greek word in English, there is difficulty. However most can spell it in Latin. It does help. I took three years of Latin in high school and also served as an altar boy.

Cats are a big deal in Chora, as well as all of Amorgos. They are well liked. Permitted in restaurants and cafes. They are beggars. People constantly feed them. I cannot. I find it repulsive.

Trees. I mentioned yesterday or the day before that there were no trees on Amorgos. There are. In Chora. Tons of them. Why not elsewhere, I do not know.

The evenings have been cold while I have been on Amorgos. Chora was cold by day and even colder by night. The wind on top of the mountain was strong. Could knock you over. You bent with it. Came from every direction. Buildings were no protective help. The wind moved around corners with ease.

I had planned to have dinner in Chora. The cold dissuaded me. I decided to leave.

I screwed up. Got the return trip wrong time wise. My fault. I did not understand the bus driver. Missed the bus. There was a 1 1/2 hour wait for the next one.

The bus stop is just outside Chora. No protection. The wind bellowed. So cold I could have used a winter jacket. And long pants. I was wearing shorts. Fortunately, I found a small bar just at the entrance and got the protection from the wind that I needed.

Enjoy your day!

NO ALBINO ANYTHING ON AMORGOS

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It’s called living and learning!

I saw a big white goat a few days ago. I assumed it was an albino goat and reported it as such.

Wednesday, I rented a car to drive the island exploring. As I came around a very tight curve, what do I behold on the road walking towards me? Two white goats! There cannot be three albino goats on this small island. It would be like finding three albino chickens in Key West.

Thursday, I was walking one of the many dirt paths on Amorgos. I saw a pure white mule. Would you believe!

An albino mule?

This time I was a bit cautious. I discussed the mule and goats with some friends afterwards. There are many white mules on Amorgos. Why white, I do not know. But here they are! There are also many white goats.

Obviously an albino expert I am not!

While driving around Wednesday, I found a lovely small beach. A big cove. About fifty bathers. There was a small shack. Hamburgers, beers, and the like. Enjoyed a hamburger and beer and took in the scene.

My car was parked in a line of cars. The lot was not that full when I arrived. Upon leaving, it was car to car.

When I tunred into my car to get in, there was this lovely woman. Standing between her car and mine. Bare ass! She was changing into her bathing suit and I came upon her at the right moment.

I smiled. She smiled. I turned my back and walked away. A gentleman am I. What more could I see anyhow? I had seen it all.

I gave her a few moments and returned. She was just walking away. Smiled again and said something in Greek which I assume was thank you.

Another port concert Wednesday night. I ate at Mythos so I could watch. Terrific! Many violins. Violins are big musical instruments in Greece. A 50ish stout woman was singing. Turns out she has had a successful career as a singer. I enjoyed the show! Traditional Greek music. It had the Greek beat. People jumping up and dancing. All ages.

I met Maria thursday. She gave me a manicure and pedicure. Turns out her young 20s son was one of the featured violin performers the night before.

My finger nails and toe nails were a disaster. Three plus weeks. I could find no clippers to buy. Finally discovered there was a woman in Chora who gave mmanicures and pedicures. Even better, she would come to your hotel/apartment.

I tracked her down. The lady was Maria.

We got together yesterday afternoon at my apartment. We enjoyed each other’s company tremendously. Maria has a terrific sense of humor. Aided of course by the three gins we each consumed during the process.

I still have all my toes and fingers!

Maria is 49, married 23 years and lives full time on Amorgos. She resides in the old town. Chora. She also has a place of business in Chora to do manicures and pedicures. She is professional at her work.

Maria and her husband also have side businesses.

Katwi is the name of their Chora store. They make special soaps containing olive oil, creams with olive oil, marmaledes from their own garden fruits, and a traditional Greek drink called raki psimeni. The raki is made with burnt sugar. I look forward to tasting it.

Maria and her husband are multi-faceted. They also raise chickens and sell them to the local restaurants. In addition, till recently a carpentry business. The building where they did the work burned down. No insurance. Very few have insurance for anything on this small island.

The fire has created many problems. They still owe the bank on the mortgage. I felt sorry for them. She described the situation as having to start all over again.

We talked about business generally. Tourism is everything. Come September, there is no more money to be made till next summer. Business has been down not only on Amorgos, but in all of Greece. Her estimate is 30 per cent. She envisons hard days ahead.

Her husband’s name is Nikolas. I met him when he came to pick her up. A nice guy. Unfortunately, we were not able to communicate. He spoke no English and I no greek.

Maria was one of the persons who told me there are white mules all over Amorogos. I got into the lamb chop scenario with her, also. I am not conviced yet that the lamb is lamb. She told me I was correct. The lamb is really goat.

I knew I was right! Though it tastes as good as the real stuff. In fact, I had “lamb” chops for dinner last night.

I am hoping to have lunch today with Spyros. I enjoy talking with him. He is a knowledgeable businessman and familiar with Greek politics.

Enjoy your day!

OTHER SIDE OF THE BAY

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Yesterday I walked around to the other side of the bay. A big distance!

I had already walked a couple of times the same route. However, I stopped where the concrete roadway ended. At the end of the line were two junk cars and a dirt path. The end of the civilized world for me.

From where I sit on my terrace, I can see directly to the other side the bay. What I see is a Church of sorts. All of one inch high to my vision because of the distance. There is also a minimal scattering of homes. There had to be a way to get to the Church and homes beyond the junk cars and concrete road.

There was. I found it. Three hundred feet up the dirt path was a narrow paved road. I followed the road to the Church. Unfortunately, it was locked. That is the second Church I have tried to enter on Amorgos that was closed. The Last Supper Church in Milan said I had to leave minutes after I arrived. The Church was closing. Amoros’ two churches closed. I am never going to be redeemed!

Later in the evening., I was discussing the trip with some neighbors. We were trying to determine how far across the Church was. How wide the bay. Someone mentioned it was farther than Tiger Woods could drive. The consensus was at least 2 miles.

The other side of the bay was interesting. Beautiful goes without saying. Besides the tiny Church, there was a taverna. A tavern in English. Also scattered homes, small coves, a lot of olive trees, and a man on a donkey. A donkey being the reliable and cheapest mode of travel on the island.

A big walk for me! Definitely at least 3 miles. Probably more.

When I returned to my rooms, I was exhausted. Nap time. When I woke, it was too late to catch the bus to Chora.

I was chatting with my neighbors and we decided to have a party on my terrace. The biggest spot in the complex.

We were American, French, Australian, and English. We chipped in and had take out. Take out exists everywhere.

The menu was vine leaves stuffed with rice and gyros. Pork and lamb. Followed by a series of Greek cakes. Plus alcohol, of course. Wine, beer, and gin.

A good time!

I only spent two nights in Athens. Five in Santorini. My total time on Amorgos will be a bit longer than three weeks. What I am about to convey, I did not notice in Athens or Santorini. The people are not the same as last year. The exuberance is gone. People are quiet. They will speak when spoken to. However, they are not as engaging as last year.

Who knows.

Spyros has become a friend. The internet guru who owns the internet store I am working from. He commented this morning that he did not see me last night. The cafe area/nightlife in Kapatola is small. An absence easy to note. I am glad Sypyos missed me.

Enjoy your day!

TOILET PAPER SAGA

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Before I get into the down and dirty, let me tell you how happy I am! No, I did not get married nor did I meet a lovely new woman. My data port connection is talking to my computers! Took two years. A shame.

I blame Verizon. I go into their Key West store and all the staff really do is sell. They know from nothing. They make like they do, however. Even Verizon’s alleged telephone professional staff is wanting.

I am on a little island called Amorgos in Greece. I keep saying the island is a hundred years behind the times. It is. On this tiny out of the way place, I discovered Spyros. Spyros Tsimelas. He lives on Amorgos all year long. He operates a small five computer internet store. The only game in town. I have been arriving at 10 every morning when he opens to do my blog and take care of other matters.

We got to talking about my problem. He asked to take a look at my equipment. Said he enjoyed working things out. Twenty four hours later, it all works. He figured out the two major problems and corrected them. He made a couple of other adjustments.

I label him a great man! He succeeded in less than 24 hours where Verizon failed over 2 years!

His bill was 15 euros. I said no way. I gave him 50. He was reluctant to take it. He finally did. Things are not valued as highly on Amorgos as back in the States.

Toilet paper has recently been in the news. Venezuela has a shortage. A real problem. They use 125 million rolls a month. They are coming up 40 million short. People are without. They are having to make do in other ways. It took one woman two weeks to find one roll of toilet paper she could buy.

Toilet paper on Amorgos is a problem, also! Though not in the same way as Venezuela.

I went into the men’s room at Mythos’ restaurant yesterday. Over the toilet was a sign: DO NOT THROW TOILET PAPER IN TOILETTE. Back at Eleni’s pension where I am staying, Eleni herself told me not to flush the toilet paper down the toilet.

There is a waste basket next to a toilet. The directions everywhere are to place the used toilet paper in the basket.

I suspect the problem has to do with the overall antiquated sewage system on the island.

There are some things I cannot do. Man has only one orifice requiring the use of toilet paper. I could not, I repeat, I could not, open the waste basket and drop my used toilet paper on top of the other tainted toilet paper. Gross!

Instead, I do it the usual way. I flush it down the toilet. If a disaster occurs or I am caught, I will say I did not see the sign, I forgot, I did not know, or what have you.

We all have limitations.

My yesterday was pleasant. I am doing basically nothing every day. Floating along.

I enjoyed lunch at a cafe on the port. Drank an ouzo afterwards. The view was spectacular. Magnificent probably a better description. The mountains, the clouds below the top of some, the white houses with blue trim, a blue sky, and water equally blue. I enjoyed!

Took a walk. Not 3 miles or anything close. About one mile. That was all I felt like doing. Then it was a nap for me. A two hour one.

Flora has come in to my life. She is the cleaning lady at Eleni’s where I am staying. She saw my clean but unpressed clothes on the couch. Maria washed them one last time, but could not get the ironing in. I have been wearing shirts and shorts out of the wash. Crushed also in the suitcase from the trip from Santorini to Amorgos. Wrinkled is not an apt description. Worse.

Flora said she would be happy to iron. She needed the extra money. Go to it, I said. I told her I was going to bed for a nap. Wake me when you are finished.

I woke two hours later. She was still at it. Finally, finished. Total time 2 1/2 hours.

We had made no deal as to how much. I handed her 20 euros. $30 American money. She said too much. I said, no. Keep it. She said no, again. Finally, she relented. Her eyes were tear filled as she did. Turns out Flora is from Albania. She is a college educated woman. 41. Teaches school. Single. Owns a home. She has a mortgage. Her teaching earnings are 300 euros a month. $400 American money. She does not get paid while not working. So she came to Amorgos for summer work. Ended up as the cleaning lady at Eleni’s. She is happy to have the job.

With the tears starting to slide out of her eyes, she said you have no idea how much money this is to me. My teacher salary amounts to 10 euros a day. Twenty euros represents two days’ pay. You have given me two days’ pay for 2 1/2 hours work.

Sometimes we do not know how good we have it.

Dinner was at Sunset. Mythos. I enjoyed the finest meal I have had thus far on the trip. Started with steamed greens covered with oil. Then the very best…..Roast lamb with potatoes done in the oven. I was told I would have to wait a half hour as it was cooked fresh. Where was I going? The meal was worth waiting for! Wow!

Of course, the meat was not lamb. It was that other little animal. Goat. I did not have the heart to confront the owner with the issue. I have become knowledgeable. I can tell the difference. It is not in the taste. It is in the form. The bone structure accompanying the meat is different.

There were five people sitting nearby. Early 20s. Four young ladies and one man. They caught my attention. They were all laughing and talking in sign language. Two of the ladies were apparently deaf and dumb. The two were talking everyone’s ears off, so to speak. The two were also absolutely beautiful! Hair, make up, attire all perfect. These were today ladies on an Amorgos holiday.

Another experience evidencing we do not know how good we have it. I was enjoying a conversation with two Italian ladies sitting at the next table. We were idling the time over coffee. Mythos gave us a dish of fresh watermelon on the house. Black seeds galore.

I mentioned that we have watermelon without seeds available in the United States. They were surprised. No seeds? Italian watermelon comes only with seeds.

I told them about seedless grapes. Again, surprise. They had never heard of them.

The conversation stayed on food. They told me they now have egg whites in bottles. New to Italy. I told them we have had egg whites for years.

An interesting world we live in.

Enjoy your day!

AMORGOS AND CAPTAIN PETER

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Amorgos and Captain Peter! The two are nowhere related. However, both represent joyful experiences and so share the title of today’s blog.

Last night was a very good one. Unusually good. It was Captain Peter’s 70th birthday. We partied. Played in a bocce make up match. We won all three games. It is a pleasure to share the evening with you. First however, the Amorgos photos.

You will recall the Greek isle of Amorgos was my favorite of the five Greek places visited.

Amorgos is a nothing island sitting out in the extremes of the Agean Sea. I had not planned to visit Amorgos. I was stuck on Mykonos three extra days because of weather. I was desperate to get out. Finally a boat was available. To a place called Amorgos. I went.

Amorgos is a relatively small island. Has six towns. The population is limited. Not many people live on Amorgos. The official population is 1,859. Amorgos’ claim to fame is a Monastery and an earthquake. I have seaparate photos of the Monastery that will be shown in a day or two. The earthquake occurred on July 9, 1953. Left 53 dead. Amorgos was my third island. Santorini and Mykonos preceded it. All three had a history of volcanic explosions. Sort of compares to the hurricane season in Key West. A threat always there. You never know.

I stayed in the town of Katapola. I did not know the name when I landed.

Amorgos’ connection with the outside world is the boat that comes in once a week. On wednesday. Assuming the weather is ok. The winds can be horrific.

I saw very few automobiles on the island. Not ten total. There was a bus. I wondered then and wonder now how they got the gasoline to fuel the few cars, bus and fishing boats. The gasoline had to come in on the once a week boat. Where it was stored, pumped, I never learned.

I loved Amorgos! Again, the best of the Greek places visited. Why? Because it was so serene and quiet. Nothing to do. Peaceful. Old. The people were from another century. Men and women alike dressed in black. Regardless of age. I was told black shuns the sun better than light colored apparel.

Twelve photos.

The first is the view from my terrace. The view says it all.

The next is an inner shot of the terrace. I spent most of my time on the terrace sitting at the table during the ten days I was on Amorgos.

I sat on the terrace in the evening also, as seen in the next photo.

As indicated before, I spent considerable time on the terrace. The next photo is of me sitting on the terrace reading. I did this all day, every day. Never went in the water. Sat, read, and slept. And ate, of course. My landlord would bring me fresh apricots every morning from his garden to start my day.

Another shot of me on the terrace.

The bay I lived on was horseshoe in shape. I walked around the horseshoe one day and had lunch. The photo is me and the restaurant. On the water. Simple. I could not figure out how the owner made it. I was the only customer at lunch time.

Note the boats in the restauant picture and the ones in the next photo. Fishing is Amorgos’ industry. They fish for themselves and the few restauants on the island. Provincially. Most of the fishing boats are mere rowboats with a motor on the back.

Again, Amorgos is from another time.

Every Greek island has a chora. Also known as hora. Means old town. You saw Mykonos’ chora. Now, Amorgos’.

Amorgos’ chora was way up on a hill. Hills again! I took the bus up. The bus had to be 40 plus years old. Shaked, rattled and rolled. But made it! I thought as the bus traveled up the hill that I was like the bus. Getting older and still hanging in there.

Once you enter the chora, everything is up hill. Whether a path or steps. So many steps! A stress test unto itself.

The next photo is me starting into the chora. Old means old. This chora was more than a 1,000 years old. It consisted primarily of homes. People still live in the 1,000 year old buildings. There was also a bar or restaurant every 200 feet or so.

I was mid way into the chora and ready to die. I needed to sit. The yellow chairs in the next photo were my salvation.

The next pic is me sitting in a yellow chair. Tired! Note my beard was growing. I looked like a bum! Did not care!

The next photo is a chora street scene. Pretty. Narrow. Only room for a galloping horse when built 1,000 years ago. Today, only foot traffic. Cars would not fit.

The final photo is me sitting on a stoop. The steps to some one’s home. I was lost. Dead tired. Could not find my way out of the chora. Sat on that stoop till I regained my energies.

So much for Amorgos. Hope you enjoyed.

It was Peter’s birthday yesterday. Seventy years old. A surprise party was planned for him at 5 at the Chart Room. Many friends. Emily, Sheila, Sean, Che, David, Jean, John DeSantis, and many others.

Also present were some friends of Emily. She referred to them as her grad school friends. About 8-10. From Louisville and Pensacola and perhaps elsewhere. Nice people. One was Fred. Fred owns a parking lot at Churchill Downs. Must be like owning Sloppy Joe’s in Key West.

I was at the Chart Room for a half hour and still no Happy birthday! There was a table full of cake, key lime pie, and other goodies. The candle was on the key lime pie. Peter never realized the people and eats were for him. Not till Emily walked up with the pie and candle and every one sang Happy Birthday!

Peter is a good guy. Loved by all. May we all share more of his birthdays with him and with each other.

Bocce was part of my evening, also. We had a make up game for one that had been rained out.

I hurried over to the bocce courts. I knew I would be late. I had already told Captain David. I learned when I arrived that we had won the two final games after I had left the night before.

I played the third game. We won all three games last night. We are on a run! A total of six victories in two nights! Everyone is playing well. May we continue to so play.

It was very comfortable playing last night. No humidity. A cold front had come in in the afternoon. Dropped the temperature 10 degrees to the high 70s. The cold front is still here today. A strong wind is coming from the north. There are big waves off my deck.

I spent yesterday afternoon researching. Also published on Amazon Kindle an article I ran a few weeks ago in KONK Lfe: Catholic Church…..200 Years Out Of Date. It speaks of the death bed interview with Cardinal Carl Maria Martini. The Cardinal was high up in the Papal hierarchy. He thought Pope Brnedict II was being too hard ass (my language), supported condom use in certain circumstances, was not against birth control, remarriage after divorce was ok, and commented on many other things afflicting/conflicting the Catholic Church today. One of his most meaningful observations was to the effect that …..our Churches are empty.

The Cardinal died four days after the interview was given.

I mentioned my Quest neighbors yesterday, There is a film crew next door. Cameras and lights all over. On the roof, on the grounds, etc. It is a new TV film series being shot next door and in the lower Florida keys. Its stars are young men from all over the country. Eighteen to 23. I cannot tell you what the show is specically about. I do not know. It appears a lot of money is being spent on it.

The individual locally putting the show together is Key West’s Denise Jackson. I did not know her. Met her for the first time two nights ago.

Enjoy your day!

MYKONOS

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No internet show this morning. The Key West Lou Legal Hour is off to next week. I feel like I am on vacation this morning. Normally, I would be in the studio at this time going over my notes. The morning is mine!

Yesterday began with a walk along Smathers Beach. Lovely! Nothing but blue ocean as far as the eye could see. A couple of shrimp boats off in the distance. Calm. Peaceful.

Then to Publix. Just a few things.

Follwed by a visit to my heart doctor. A regular check up. He spoke to me of a 5 year study involving fish oil and triglycerides. I signed up for it. Nothing to lose. Plus, I get free blood work and a mini physical every two months.

I only played the first game of bocce last night. Captain Dave gave me permission to leave early to watch the Vice Presidential debate.

What a game! We were getting slaughtered! Like 10-3. I figured we were a loser. All of a sudden the score was 13-12 in our favor. Game is 16. We were rolling. Don had the last shot. The other team had one ball on the polina. Don blasted. When the dust settled, we had three points. What a shot! We won the game!

The debate. Better than the Presidential one. Clearly a philosophical difference between Biden and Ryan. Each made their points. I thought Biden came out ahead.

Whatever. I evaluate the Vice Presidnetial race from one perspective. Who would I want for President? One of them could be. I ask myself who would I want to take that telephone call at 3 in the morning advising that Iran had just dropped a nuclear bomb on Israel. The answer is obvious.

What did and does disturb me are not the candidates themselves. It is the political pundits on TV. Between last night and this morning, American viewers got an education in Public Speaking 102. What bullshit! Discuss the issues and responses. Not who may have smiled too much.

Today the Mykonos photos! Eleven of them.

Let me start by saying I was not thrilled by Mykonos. The beauty of the other Greek isles was there. That was it. I found Mykonos to be a money hungry island. Everything expensive. Restaurants moving patrons in and out swiftly. Natives curt.

Mykonos was once the playground for the rich and famous. Like 50 plus years ago. No more. Now it is the home of wannabes.

I cannot deny I had a pleasant time. In spite also of being hit by a car and thrown skyward over a stone wall. However, the other islands were more to my liking.

The primary town on Mykonos bears the name Mykonos. It is a Greek custom. The biggest town on a Greek isle carries the same name as the island itself.

Two interesting pieces of information regarding Mykonos. First, the 1989 movie Shirley Valentine was shot totlally on Mykonos. The other involves drinking water. Most of Mykonos’ water is derived from desalinization of sea water. The island’s fresh water supply is extremely limited.

The first photo is of me looking at Little Venice off in the distance. Little Venice is where the town meets the sea. Back in time, the Greeks on Mykonos were taken by Italy’s Venice. They wanted homes on the water, also. Little Venice was constructed. The buildings were built on the sea’s edge with balconies over hanging the water.

The next photo is three of the many windmills on Mykonos. Landmarks. Constructed back in the 16th century. They provided power and graining use then. Some are still used for power today.

Mykonos is primarily an old town. There are some modern buildings on its perimeter. However the significant part of the town of Mykonos was built more than a thousand years ago. The old town portion is called Chora. Sometimes, Hora. The next photo is of me walking down a Chora street. Notice how narrow the street is. No cars back then.

It was hard to find top shelf gin in the Greek isles. No one had Beefeater. A few sold Tanqueray. Most sold Gordon’s. A terrible gin. It can be drunk all night with no effect.

I was walking Chora one evening and came upon a restaurant that specialized in serving Tanqueray. I was over joyed. You can tell from the next photo.

The next pic is of me sitting at an outside Greek restaurant in the evening. I had just started growing my beard.

The next photo is of me resting by the hotel pool. The sun was extemely hot that day. I covered up.

Though I was not happy with the commercial parts of Mykonos, the beaches thrilled me. Great beaches! The next photo is of me suning myself on Elia Beach. My stomach shames me. Elia’s sand and water were black. The remnants of a volcanic explosion.

Paradise and Super Paradise Beaches in the next two photos. Separate beaches miles apart. Both terrific! Fun places. Some nudity. Good for the soul! Huge semi circular bars that jumped from 5 on. Patrons dancing on the bars and that sort of thing.

The next photo is me sitting in the shade of a tree at Super Paradise Beach waiting for the bus to take me back to my hotel.

The final photo contains bird houses. All Mykonos buildings, whether old or new, have them. They are represented in the photo by the triangular openings on each side of the blue door.

Doves are a loved and protected species of bird on Mykonos. I do not know why. Mykonos also has a huge number of eagles, vultures and falcons. You can understand what was happening. The big birds were attacking and dining on the little doves. The small triangular openings provide the doves protection.

There is something going on at the home next door to mine. A TV series is being filmed. The show is called The Quest.
A Key Wester is involved. A Denise Jackson. I will tell you more about The Quest tomorrow.

Enjoy your day!

DAY 29

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Nearer my God to Thee!

I was there. I was close. I visited the monastery on Amorgos yesterday. Way up in the sky sitting on the side of a very high cliff.

Some pertinent background information first. Then my personal experience.

The Monastery is also called the Monastery of Hozoviotissa. Do not ask what it means. I do not know. Could not ascertain. It has something to do with the Virgin Mary, however.

There was an Emperor Alexius back in the 11th century. Whether he was emperor of only Amorgos or more, I do not know. As the story goes, a mysterious icon of the Virgin Mary arrived on the beach below the cliff. No one knew nor could discover where it came from.

Emperor Alexius concluded it had been Divinely sent to him. He decided to build a shrine on the spot to honor the Virgin.

The spot could not be the beach. A house cannot be built on sand. There was only the beach and a cliff. The cliff towered. Straight up. Three thousand feet or better. Alexius decided the shrine should be built on the side of the cliff. The cliff that was sheer and high.

He ended up building a monastery to house the Virgin icon. The Monastery constructed is 8 stories tall. For real. Built a couple of thousand feet up the side of a sheer wall of stone. The Monastery itself is constructed of stone, marble and whatever concrete was back then.

Now to put everything in perspective. Louis’ journey and visit to the Monastery.

My first step was to take a bus. To Chora. The old part of town I visited a couple of days ago. The road to Chora is basically straight up a high mountain. The Chora area continues straight up. Evverything here is up, up and more up!

Fortunately, the bus dropped me off near the top side of the Chora. Then it was a long walk to the gate to the Monastery. Up hill, of course.

The gate did not mean I was there. It was merely an entrance.

The next step (a good word to use) in the process was to climb the steps to the Monastery. Note, I am walking up the side of a sheer cliff.

There are 300 steps. They twist a bit. Always up. Never down. Not even once.

The steps are not of normal construction. Their height varied little. Their width and length very much. Like 5-10 feet.

The steps were constructed of stone. A slate type. I do not know if they are the original steps from the 11th century or have been replaced. The stones/slates were worn. A few missing here and there.

Basically, the steps had the side of the cliff on one side and a drop off the cliff on the other.

The Monastery was at the other end of the 300 steps. Almost straight up. I keep stressing the straight. Simply because it was that way. I would estimate the steps were at a 75 degree angle or better. That is straight up!

You will recall, I failed to make it to the top of the volcano. I was not gung ho to make it to the top here. If I did, good. If not, it would have been a valiant effort. I would give it a try!

I made it to the top. To the Monastery. It took a while. Quite a while. I stopped about a dozen times. Sat a while on a step. The stress on my body did not seem as bad as the volcano attempt.

I was thinking why was I making it now and could not with the volcano. I concluded because the volcano was early in my trip and a first attempt at something high and steep. Everything is upward bound in Greece. Hills and steps every where. I have been in Greece more than three weeks now. My body gotten a bit in shape and adapted to the terrain.

The end of the steps did not take me directly into the Monastery. There was still a long walk up a path to the Monastery door.

I was there!

Awesome is the only way to describe what I saw. A mammoth white building running to the sky. Recall, the building is described as eight stories tall. That is tall. Especially when you are standing at the foot of the structure.

The building was constructed on the side of a sheer cliff. I could not help but think sadly how many slaves were involved and how many died in erecting this shrine. I also thought the engineers and architects of the 11th century had to be brilliant to have constructed such a large edifice under extremely difficult conditions.

The front door. Small. Tiny. At best 5 feet in height. Maybe less. Three to three and a half feet in width. The only entrance. I had to bend over to enter.

I suspect the Monastery entrance was so constructed because people were shorter back then. Additionally, it was a good way to ward off invaders. Only one bad guy at a time could enter.

The first room on the other side of the entrance. The first thing I saw was a table with clothes. Women’s dresses, men’s pants, etc.

There is a strict dress code. No shorts on men. Women in dresses. Not even pants. Shoulders and beasts covered. If you are not so attired, the monks provide the appropriate clothing. I was glad I had been forewarned. I wore khakis. The clothes available at the monastery were filthy. Looked like they had not been washed in 50 years.

Awesome continued to be my impression as I walked through the rooms. Amazing what my eyes beheld.

Art work in each room. Fantastic art work! Paintings. Icons. The sanctuary where the Virgin Mary icon was shown defies description. That beautiful.

An eight story structure has many windows. The views from the windows magnificent! Open sea to the front. The beach below. All in glorious color. It was like almost being in Heaven and looking down.

There was a social aspect. A monk came out at the end of our visit. The only monk I had seen. The monks here take a vow never to speak or see outsiders the rest of their lives. This monk apparently had a dispensation.

We were seated in a long narrow room. There was a throne at one end. A long narrow beautiful wood table. A long couch with very comfortable cushions on each side.

The monk served us a sweet drink. A wine of some sort. And a sweet. A piece of candy covered with sugar. He spoke. Gave some sort of dissertation. Unfortunately, it was in Greek. I understood none of it.

The monk was interesting. He was tall and thin. Appeared aged. Had a very long beard. Like down to his chest. He was dressed in a blue flowing robe. A hat/head cover of the same color.

I found his hands and face skin interesting. Dirty. Perhaps he had come to see us directly from the fields. But there were no fields. We were attached to a cliff. Then, he did not bathe that often. It was the only viable conclusion I could come to.

Between the dirty clothes at the beginning for those not properly dressed and the monk’s lack of cleanliness, I assumed the axiom that cleanliness is next to Godliness did not apply at the Monastery.

I made a meager contribution to the Monastery as I left.

There was a guest book. I signed and dated it. I wanted the whole world to know I had made it. I also inscribed above my signature…..Just amazing!!!

The trip down was not so bad. I took my time so I would not fall.

The bus was at the end of the Chora waiting where we had been dropped off. It was back to Amorgos.

An interesting trip. I am glad I have been able to share it with you.

Enjoy your day!

DAY 26

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Not easy to communicate via internet from the middle of the Aegean Sea. Equipment here all old. Connections not dependable. Things keep getting lost. I spend more time looking for lost material than writing.

None of the above is intended as a complaint. I expect no more nor no less from an island so remote as the one I am presently on. Amorgos. It is almost nowhere. Access is by boat only. The boat comes and goes. The boat come two times a week.

I share the preceding with you for a particular reason.

Recent blogs have contained many errors. Paragraphs repeated, misspelled words, capitalizations missing, etc. I cannot help it. I reach a point where I have spent 4 hours doing the blog, 2.5 of which were spent finding the blog when it has disappeared.

I reach a point where I say I must publish before I lose the blog in its entirety for good. So I publish. I must admit when I am at that point, I am also very tired and say screw it.

Forgive me. The substance is good, even though the form may be lacking on occasion.

Which brings me to my present abode. A small white cottage with blue trim. Trim includes windows, shutters and doors. Sitting about 12 feet from the ocean. Yesterday I described the area between me and the water as a road. I was mistaken. It is a stone foot path.

Amorgos is one of the far out of the Greek islands. Off the beaten path. Few visitors. Not on the tourist routes. No big fancy hotels. Nothing but you, a couple of neighbors, and God.

If 2,000 people live on this island, I would be shocked.

My little house sits at the end of the path previously described. After that, nothing but water.

Sunsets terrific. Like Key West. Across the water from me. Over the peak of a mountain. Glorious!

I bought a bottle of Beefeaters yesterday. Enjoyed a couple of drinks from my terrace watching the sunset.

I was shocked I could buy Beefeaters. It has been almost non existent at my previous stops. Not only was it available on Amorgos, it was also cheap. About half the cost compared to the U.S. I suspect it is the taxes. If the Greeks taxed alcohol as much as it is in the U.S., it would dramatically help their financial condition.

Cigarettes. I took 4 packs with me. I have been gone 2 days shy of four weeks. Just finished the fourth pack yesterday. I am not doing bad in smoking little. I know. I should not be at all.

I bought a pack yesterday. $4.10! No way in the U.S.A. Another example of where Greece might help alleviate its financial problem. Increase substantially the cigarette tax.

There is a Chora on Amorgos. You will recall there was one in Mykonos. Chora is also referred to as Hora. It means old place. The old places on most islands are federally protected in Greece. Much like our historical buildings.

The Chora here is a large number of buildings constructed during the middle ages. Most at least 1,000 years old. Typically Grecian. One to 3 stories. Small terraces. White. Blue trimming. Narrow walkway, 3-4 feet wide.

Whereas Mykonos’ Chora was full of people, stores, bars and restaurants, the one on Amorgos appeared deserted. I saw no more than a dozen visitors.

Every 200-300 feet there is a restaurant or coffee house. Few or no customers.

Stairs. To the sky! Just what I love! Steps everywhere. Up, up and more up! Each one a stress test for me.

Chora was six miles away. On the top of a hill. The cab ride was straight up. The return trip straight down. How these cars do it, I will never understand. I consider it physically impossible for a car to keep its wheels on the road under such conditions.

Somewhere along the way yesterday, I found out what the windmills were for. There are many here as on Mykonos.

Olives were and still are big. The windmills were used to crush the olives. Where there were vine yards, the grapes were likewise crushed by the windmills.

Last night the wind returned. Cold. Very cold. I had to wear a sweat shirt.

I had a late dinner. At Demetrius’. After dinner there the night before, I could eat nowhere else. I was not disappointed.

Eggplant is big here. I had a warm appetizer of eggplant, tomatoes and onions. All cut up and cooked together. To die for!

My entre surpassed everything! My friends in Utica will especially enjoy that which I am about to share. I had lamb chops. Thin. The bone intact, not cut from the chop’s bodyt. Fatty and juicy.

Just like Pelletieri Joe’s.

I got up with the sun this morning. Walked down the road a bit to buy coffee, a loaf of hot bread and butter. Then back to the cottage and my terrace. I watched the sun and water move a bit. Nothing else.

A bit later I was playing around with my tablet. A very lovely young lady walked by. Ann. Swiss. 18. Blond hair. Trim body. White blouse. Short jeans.

We talked. She was back packing it. Was looking for a cheap place to stay. Elini’s was too expensive for her. She moved on to continue her quest.

By the way, I think Elini’s is dirt cheap. Everything on this island costs next to nothing. For example, my dinner last night cost 11 euros. About $14 American money. Tip built in. Tip is 16 per cent of a bill.

I had another visitor while sitting outside.

I heard clinging bells. Saw nothing. Got up and looked over the terrace wall. There were three ducks walking along. Each had a bell around its neck. Looked like a family. Too big ones, one little one. Obviously house pets out for a stroll.

I have no idea at this point what today will bring. Maybe a trip to the monastery. Maybe nothing.

Enjoy your day!

DAY 22

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I am never going to get out of Mikonos!

The Greek gods are working against me.

First, I wanted to go to Fourni. No way. The boat to Fourni had been discontinued. I decided to stay in Mykonos a few extra days.

Tomorrow, I was planning on leaving for Amorgos. Someone told me there is a monastery worth seeing. The monks provide water and food to visitors through a hole. The monks never see nor speak to anyone from the moment they enter the monastery. Also, Amorgos is considered one of the prettier of the small islands.

I went down to get my boat ticket for Amorgos this morning. Down by the waterfront. I wanted to leave tomorrow. No boat to Amorgos today or tomorrow. Everything cancelled. Even planes. The weather.

Strong winds today. The kind we get in Key West when the water breaks against the White Street Pier and splashes 20-30 feet high. I was on the waterfront this morning. Ten feet from the water. Hitting the beach and shooting up and over all nearby. Including me.

I am becoming knowledgeable about Mykonos weather.

When I first arrived, it was hot and humid. No breeze at all. The last three days big winds. No humidity.

Some natives tell me that is the way the weather is this time of the year. Three days humid. Then three days of wind.

I also started hearing that today’s wind is unusual for June. It is September wind.

Who knows? I just want to leave Mykonos. I have been here too long. It is not my type place. Too touristy for me. Key West is mild by comparison. The flavor and grandeur for which Mykonos is known was in the 1960s and 1970s. Gone. Today’s players are wannabes to that life style.

A great place to visit for a few days and leave.

Wednesday is my scheduled departure day now.

Yesterday was Paradise Beach. The place I had been seeking. All my desires were satisfied. I saw it all! I was a little embarrassed. I never showed mine.

Stayed in last night again. Dined in the hotel’s dining room.

I have been eating Greek food for more than two weeks now. I yearned for something else. I enjoyed a huge portion of spaghetti bolognaise.

Christina is in charge of the dining room. She does a top notch job. Great service, great food and the right touch with personal amenities.

Christina is 35 years old. Looks 25. A short lovely blonde. Fair skinned. A single mother of a 4 year old boy.

I asked Christina where she works in the winter. Mykonos is a summer town. Closes down for the winter months. She says she can always find work somewhere in Mykonos in the off months.

A hard worker. A talented person. I wish her well.

The Greek election. Yesterday. I called it right. The euro supporters won. It was close. The euro people got 29 percent of the vote. The non-euros 26 per cent. Several other minor parties grabbed anywhere from 12 per cent of the vote downward.

Twenty nine per cent is not enough to control. A coalition is required. It is anticipated the winners will form the coalition with the party who got 12 per cent of the vote. Still not enough to make a majority. However, under Greek law the party receiving the largest number of votes automatically gets an additional 50 seats in the national legislature. That puts the euro people over the top. A crazy country!

Forget what you read in the papers and on TV today. This new government is not going to work. The Germans have already suggested they might ease some of the time payment dates. But that is it! The big hard dollar payments still remain. Greece will not be able to make them. The new government and the euro will fail. I give it three to six months.

To put it all in proper perspective, this election is not even a band aid. Some one took a rag and merely brushed the blood aside. A very temporary solution to an ongoing aggravating problem.

I noticed yesterday that many of the older Greek homes have what I thought was some religious design on each house. All alike. A bunch of small triangles set in a large square. The square sits on one of its points. There apparently is space behind the openings. I noticed the newer buildings did not have the design. My initial thought was that whatever it was was intended to keep evil spirits away.

I was wrong. The triangular openings were for doves.

At one time there were many white doves flying above Mykonos. Predatory birds discovered the doves and came in large numbers to feed upon them. This was many years ago. The citizens of Mykonos enjoyed and favored the doves. Ergo, as homes and buildings were constructed, these triangular openings became part of the construction. The doves could fly inside and evade the predator birds.

It must not have worked. I have seen no doves in my time here.

Terri White makes national news again! She was selected by GO Magazine as one of the 100 Women We Love. Take a look at the 6/15/12 edition of the magazine. A terrific pic of Terri and a concise litany leading to her success.

I survived yesterday’s hit and run. Woke this morning with a swelling half the size of as golf ball on my arm. No pain.

I have a pretty good tan. The sun is strong in the Greek isles. Much stronger than Key West. Between walking around and a bit of sun bathing, I am getting dark. Very dark.

I have only shaved once in the four weeks I have been gone. I look pretty bad. I apologized to one woman I met for having such a sloppy growth. She thought it looked sexy. I may never shave again. I wonder how I will look if I do not shave the balance of this trip. Another three weeks.

Enjoy your day!

DAY 21

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Today could be the most significant day in history since the close of World War II. The Greek elections are being held.

The issue boils down to whether the Greeks want to continue operating with the euro as money or would they prefer a return to the drachma. I have talked with many since I arrived in Greece. I am getting divergent opinions.

Yes, I saw grown men and women spit on the ground when they heard Merkle’s name at a protest rally in Athens. That is not all of it however. I have found the bankers and very affluent support continuing with the euros. Why not. They are doing terrific under it. Making money!.

Then there are the small businessmen. They are struggling. They want a return to the drachma like yesterday. They also want out of the European Union.

Then come the people. The Jims and Janes on the streets. Those going to work every day to put food on the table. They feel the oppression of the euro. But I suspect they will not vote in large numbers. They claim it is too late. The Mafia is controlling everything.

I find it surprising that people still revert to the Italian wrongdoers of old to blame. I think they do not really mean Mafia per se. What I sense is that they believe that government has been bought by big business. Believing that, I suspect most will not vote. Simply because they believe their votes will mean nothing. The banks and big business will control in the end no matter who wins.

Sense a similarity with the USA?

Germany could ease the pressure. Germany is making money with the euro. Germany has become in effect the banker for the rest of the euro nations. Which includes Greece.

Germans as a people tend to be anal. Black and white. By the book. Greeks on the other hand go with the flow. They take everything in stride. Are not as serious about things as they probably should be. Like money.

Germany is in a position of power. The third time they have so been in less than 100 years. The Kaiser in 1914 and Hitler in l939 were two instances. Germany felt it was omnipotent. Two world wars resulted.

This Germany/Greece thing is a war that is erupting. Except this time it is with money instead of bullets. Each can have a devastating effect. This euro thing can result in a world wide recession of a sort never before experienced.

I have a suspicion. It is based on what I have experienced and read over the past three weeks. I believe the euro people will win. Why? Because they will vote. They are doing well as indicated hereinbefore under the euro. The people on the street appear to have already given up. They will not turn out in the numbers necessary to throw out the euro and return to the drachma.

I cannot wait till later tonight to see if I have called this correctly.

The trip caught up with me yesterday. I have been at this three weeks. All of a sudden I was tired. Dead tired.

I walked into town and had lunch. Something I have not done since arriving. I then sat in the shade at the sidewalk cafe where I had lunched and watched the world walk by.

Eventually, I got back to my hotel. And my bed. I slept the afternoon away.

I was still tired when I woke. Opted to remain at my hotel and dine in its dining room. Glad I did. A great meal! The service unusually spectacular. I am staying at a small hotel. I have gotten to know everyone. This was the first time they had the opportunity to show me what they could do. They wanted to show me, to please me.

And please me they did! I won’t go through all the specifics, except to relate that the meal was heavy with tomatoes, olives, cheeses and oil. Dessert was a Greek chremboule. Two gins. Beefeater. One of the few places in Mykonos that stocks it. And a shot of something after dinner on the house.

I could not thank them enough.

I was up and out early this morning. Needed a manicure and pedicure desperately. The last ones were more than 3 weeks ago.

I had to walk up the highway about a quarter of a mile. A beautiful salon for nails and massages in a small strip mall. I was their first customer. Everyone sitting around. Ergo, I had three ladies working on me at one time. One on the toes and the other two each had a hand a piece.

A good job! I was pleased.

I asked them if they had voted. They said no. I asked if they were going to vote. They said no. Why, I asked. Mafia!

Not a bright response, but that is the way it is. Again, I have heard that same response many times over the past three weeks.

Now for the fun part of this morning.

I got hit by a car.

There are no sidewalks. The driving lanes are narrow. Drivers speed constantly. The only place for pedestrian traffic is on the edges of the road.

I was in an area that had a three foot stone wall running on both sides of the highway. Between the road edge and the wall was two feet. No more.

I was casually walking down the road against traffic. Staying in my little two feet. All of a sudden this guy came around a curve. There was no oncoming traffic. He had a good fifty feet after the curve to see me. He never tried to avoid me. He clipped my right arm with his passenger door mirror. I went flying over the wall. I looked up to see the car speed away. The driver had to feel the impact and hear its sound. The thud was loud.

I was concerned. The last thing I want is to be sick in a foreign country. There was no one around who saw or could help me. I eventually got up. My right arm beneath the elbow was sore. As was the right side of my neck.

I walked back to my hotel with no difficulty. It has been about two hours since the event and all I am experiencing is pain in the two areas I complained about. I lucked out.

So far on this trip I have survived three earthquakes and one auto accident.

I still have three weeks to go.

A beach day again today. Paradise Beach. The one two days ago was Super Paradise Beach. Two separate beaches. One old, one new. I am going to the older one today.

Enjoy your day! And be careful as you walk.