AMORGOS THE KEY WEST OF GREECE

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Amorgos is the Key West of Greece.

It is not the night life that compels that judgment. There is no night life on Amorgos. It is the laid back atmosphere that Key West is so famous for. The locals here have the same laid back attitude.

The observation was arrived at last night while I was having dinner at Mythos.

The view from Mythos suggested a further similarity. The feeling, not the actual eye view itself. The same feeling you get at the Reach Restaurant’s back porch and the Pier House deck.

The wind is back. Blew last night. It was a cold wind. I had to wear a sweatshirt. This morning the wind is even stronger. You can hear it whistling. There are small whitecaps all over. The sun keeps you warm by day. A t-shirt suffices. The nights are another story.

Tonight, I intend to visit Chora. The oldest city on Amorgos. There is a Chora on every Greek island. Always the oldest town. Always on top of a hill. Always old white buildings. Always with Greek seniors sitting in front of their tiny white houses dressed in black.

The top of the mountain means cold. Colder. Definitely a sweatshirt or jacket.

I did Chora last year. The steps are steep and too many. Up, up and away! For me, it was no fun. We shall see if I can handle it better this year. My plan is to have dinner somewhere in Chora.

I carried through yesterday morning on my plan to walk immediately on arising. Forty five whole minutes. Up and down, some steep steps included. I thought I would try for a whole hour this morning.

Good luck! I never made it out of bed!

My computer system is now generally working. No thanks to Verizon. It still goes in and out. I am told the problem is with Vodaphone. Vodaphone is Verizon’s partner in Europe. The Verizon signal is strong. I have to get Verizon first. The Vodaphone signal weak. I cannot understand.

I sat and talked with Flora yesterday afternoon. The cleaning lady. Her story is fantastic! Guaranteed you will enjoy. I will do it as a blog one morning soon. We in the United States do not know how good we have it. Even the least of our citizens are in a better place than Albanians.

Cats have never been a favorite of mine. One appears to have adopted me yesterday.

All of a sudden, there was a cat curled up under one of the terrace chairs. Escaping the sun. I said get out. The cat apparently did not understand English. The cat stayed with me the rest of the afternoon. Later, I went inside to nap. I leave the door open so the ocean breeze runs in and cools the apartment. I forgot about the cat. No, the cat did not come in. However, when I woke the cat was laid out sleeping in front of the door stoop.

My visitor was nowhere to be seen this morning. I have a feeling he/she will be there when I return in a couple of hours.

My choices were twofold for dinner last night. Fried smelts at Dimitris’ or grilled vegetables at Mythos. Mythos won out. I wanted a drink. Dimitris has no hard liquor. Mythos has gin.

Grilled vegetables were an appetizer. My main course was fried calamari. Not like in the United States! Here like big pieces of octopus. Not what I wanted. I was hoping small breaded pieces as in the States. Still good, however. My problem was vision. Big pieces of head, tentacles and body. Affected my enjoyment.

My pants are staying up. I am not sure why. Either I lost weight or gained. At first, I thought lost. Now I am not sure. I am not drinking that much. Eating big time, however. Whatever, I no longer worry about losing my drawers.

Enjoy your day!

NOT A BAD BIRTHDAY

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Yesterday a good birthday. Spent the day selfishly. Doing what I wanted. No wife, friend or foe to accommodate. Just Louis.

Some observations to begin.

This morning was the best yet in Amorgos. I sat outside on the terrace reading till I left for the internet store at noon. The sun warm. Comfortable. It was impossible to sit out early morning till today because of the cold winds.

The locals tell me the winds come three days at a time from the northwest. Then they are gone. This is my fourth day on Amorgos. The natives were correct.

Bikinis. I have never seen a woman in a bikini that I did not like. The thought recurred to me this morning as I was walking to the internet store. With such great winds, sailing boats frequent the area. There were nine docked this morning. Each with one or more women on board. All in bikinis. Whether tall, short, slender bodied, heavy or what have you, a woman in a bikini is a sight to behold. All lovely. All sexy.

I have been on this trip two weeks. I loaded six books into my tablet before I left. I figured it would take me two months to read them. I am on my sixth and last book today. I will need to reload.

I finished Jefferson this morning. Terrific! I started Burt Bacharach’s book thereafter. Bacharach is the famous composer. What a book! I am only about fifty pages into it and love it! This guy has a sense of humor! Read his book!

I spent 4.5 hours yesterday at the internet store. Two tasks confronted me. I had to do next week’s KONK Life column. I called it Reflections. Commented on some events world wide. Then the blog. It’s a good thing I enjoy all this writing!

Lunch was Mythos. The restaurant has become another favorite. On the port and water, also.

Mythos’ owner is Vangelis. His first name. He and his family run the place. Vangelis, his wife, 15 year old daughter, and 10 year old son. There is also a 14 month baby daughter who walks around. Yes, she walks. Toddles. To the entertainment of the customers. A hard working family!

Why, I do not know. I ordered a huge glass of draught beer! I hate beer! A gallon jug! Not really that big, however. Though almost quart size.

Felt a bit bloated afterwards. Decided to walk.

My health has been so so. My fault. Stopped exercising in any fashion ages ago. Have been trying to get back into shape.

I said Louis, you are 78 today. Lets see how good you can do.

I walked around the bay. Three miles. I have not walked three miles in years. Did it. And felt no anguish afterwards.

I was proud of myself.

Back to Mythos for a moment. The bread on Amorgos is great. Thick cut with a strong hard crust. Not crispy, however. I have difficulty biting and chewing the crust. So I have taken to breaking away the soft portion within the crust and leaving the crust.

Vangelis came by with the baby. He said excuse me and took a piece of crust from my table. He gave it to the baby . She chewed it easily with the few teeth she had. I thought I have $35,000 teeth and cannot do what the baby does.

I have noticed that people of all ages sit around tables at the cafes playing a game. Looked familiar. It was. They play backgammon! Call it tavli.

Backgammon was popular back in the 1970s. I can remember playing it all the time at the Jockey Club in Miami. I guess it took a while to reach Amorgos. The observation is consistent with my thought that Amorgos is from another time.

Ran into my British widow friend Alice. If you are doing nothing, join me, she said. She had rented a car and wanted to show me the goats.

We drove up a mountain. There were clouds. First, we were below the clouds. Then in the clouds. Then on top of the clouds. Just like in an airplane. The only other time I had this experience was last year in Courmier. My chalet was half way up Mont Blanc. I woke one morning to a cloud bed below me.

We came upon the goats. She was correct. Had to be at least 200 of them. All beautiful, short, brown and black, and short in stature.

I was back to the Mythos Restaurant at 7. I had reserved a table. The stage for the music festival was right in front of the restaurant.

A great show. Young people from adjoining islands singing, dancing and playing music. Violins were the primary instrument. Some guitars. A small drum or two.

Dancing was in native costumes.

The Greek Orthodox priest I had seen earlier in the day was on stage playing with the teenagers.

Music loud. Very loud. Big time amplification.

The show most enjoyable! A pleasant way to spend the evening. Eating, drinking and being entertained in that fashion.

Spyros Tsimelas owns the internet store I am working out of. He was there last night. He had an important role. Spyros is the computer/internet guru on the island. The entire festival was being ustreamed on the internet. His responsibility.

I ordered stuffed calamari for dinner. Not what grandmother made. Hers were small and thin stuffed with bread crumbs, eggs and what have you. This was one calamari. Huge. Four by three inches. Thick walled. Stuffed with feta cheese, tomatoes and peppers. Delicious! I could not finish it. I left half the meal on the plate.

Vangelis came over and asked if I did not like the food. I learned later that in Europe people clean their plates. Not to do so is considered an insult to the cook.

To my Italian readers, although the walls of the calamari were 1/4 inch thick, the meat was tender. As tender as if it were as thin as the calamari prepared in the United States.

Time for lunch. Then, I do not know.

Enjoy your day!

BELATED JULY 4TH GREETINGS FROM AMORGOS

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It’s not easy sometime!

Another 2 for 1 blog. I could not do yesterday’s blog. Two things are to blame. Verizon #1. They sell. However, the service leaves much to be desired. Second, I arrived in Amorgos yesterday afternoon at 3. The internet store closed at 2. It is only open 10-2. What a life!

Yesterday was July 4. Happy Fourth of July everyone! Hope you all enjoyed.

I am into my fourth book. Jefferson by Jon Meacham. A good book to start reading on the 4th. A smart, deceptive, cunning man. Just like Eisenhower. Maybe that is what it takes to be President. Especially a great one.

Wednesday was my last full day in Santorini. There is another side of the island. A side I had never seen. It was time.

Santorini cannot be more than 2 miles wide at Oia. The other side, totally different.

Oia is perhaps the most beautiful place I have ever seen. The natural result of a massive earthquake some 3,600 years ago. Made the Oia side dramatic colorful cliffs overlooking several islands which broke off from the main island at the time of the earthquake. Man has taken advantage of nature’s work. Business booms because of the beautiful view. I sometimes think Santorini as a whole is becoming too commercialized. I hope it does not become a Mykonos.

The other side of the island was nothing. Zip. The volcano did not affect the area. It was flat. The sea looked as any sea. The waves roll onto the beaches. No cliffs. No people, either. A few homes here and there. Most of Santorini’s development has been on the volcano side.

Greek houses come in two color combinations. White with blue trim, tan with white trim.

After my other side of the island trip, I sat on my terrace overlooking Back Street. Finished reading Eisenhower. A good book. I recommend it. It is a no holes barred revelation of Ike’s life.

I was out for the night early. Stopped at Mezzo for a drink. A necessity. Few restaurants carry liquor. Just beer and wine. I drink neither. So I stop where I know I can get what I want before going to a restaurant.

Mezzo is a small place. Only two servers. One male, one female. The female represented Greek beauty to me. Stands erect, lovely legs, a bit of an accentuated butt, lovely breasts and the face of a goddess. A Greek goddess. Topped with streaked gold and brown hair.

Her name is Andomaxi. She is Greek by birth. Lives on a different Greek isle from Santorini. Comes to Santorini for the summer to work.

Her English is perfection. Since it is a learned second language, each word is clearly enunciated. It was a delight to hear her speak English.

I treated myself to a Greek shirt. They are made of light flimsy cotton. Very cool to wear. Very cool to be seen in. Did not make me Greek, however. My crocs give me away.

I discovered a new tiny Greek restaurant. Off the beaten track. Taverna Kasteli. They had lamb chops! The kind I like. The kind my grandmother used to prepare. The cheap fatty bony cut. Delicious! One of my favorite foods. Lamb is big with the Greeks.

We are now into yesterday. Friday, the 4th. I left Santorini for Amorgos. Another island.

Amorgos is really nothing! Mountains, but no dramatic cliffs. Very few people. No airport. Very few cars. No tourists. The boat till this year used to come in once a week with supplies and people. This year, two times a week.

I enjoy the quiet, the simplicity, the nothingness.

I had to take a ferry boat to Amorgos. The Greek islands are connected by ferry boats. The ferry boats are their buses and subways.

The port was packed. I would estimate 2,000 people at least. All waiting for three boats. All due in at the same time. All came in at the same time. One hour late.

Most of the passengers were going to Mykonos. A celebrity haven 50 years ago. Everyone wants to experience the flavor today. I was there last year. I did not like it. Too many people, a tourist trap, everything expensive and generally not worth it, everyone hustling you. Mykonos is also the place where I got hit by the car and thrown into the air. Where the driver never stopped.

I was on what is called in the Greek isles a high speed hydrofoil. Reserved seats.

This boat had five stops. The first was Amorgos. Everyone seemed to be carrying a big suitcase weighing 40-50 pounds. You bring it on. An ordeal. When on board, you are shouted at and asked where you are going. Your bag is grabbed and thrown into a pile with bags going to the same place. Finding your bag afterwards is a task.

You have to hustle to find your seat. Once everyone is on, the boat moves. No lost time. If you are not in your seat, you are going to be on your ass.

The ride was ok till the last 15 minutes. Then 15 foot waves. Bumpy.

Arrived in Amorgos! Maybe 20 of us got off the boat. Lined up in front off the boat were representatives of the various homes that rent out rooms. No hotels as such in Amorgos. Some homes they call pensiones. Nothing upscale and today. These representatives are actually home owners trying to get some business. They hold up signs try to get your eye, and yell at you for your attention.

I am staying in the town of Katopola on Amorgos. Santorini’s Oia is very upscale. Katopola the other side of the spectrum. Very downscale. I would bet Katopola has not changed one iota in over a hundred years.

Maybe that is why I like it so much.

I was settled in my apartment. Elini’s. Ground floor. My own entrance. My own terrace. The terrace sits 12 feet from the ocean. The views nowhere as spectacular as Santoriini, but good never the less.

I heard a loud thump. Then another. And another. I looked to my side. There was an old man in a bathing suit. He apparently had caught with his hands a large squid. About two feet long. He was beating the squid on the rocks. Up and down many times. Obviously killing it and thereafter would take it home for dinner. Amorgos’ version of the old man and the sea.

My favorite Amorgos restaurant. I still do not know its name. There is no sign. It sits on the port off the water where the ferry boat dropped me off. An old 2 story house. The downstairs has been turned into a restaurant. Tables outside. A roof built overhead. The restaurant is typical Amorgos.

The owner and waiter remembered me. Handshakes all around.

I ate there almost every night last year. My grandmother’s cooking.

Last night it was lamb chops again. Two nights in a row. The same, the cheap cut. The kind you eat with your fingers. I also had a dish of egg plant, zucchini, tomatoes and potatoes in oil. The kind of dish you clean with the bread. The bread was De Vito bread. My Utica friends will understand.

As mentioned earlier, lamb is big in the Greek isles. The only problem is I have never seen a sheep. I see goats. Many of them. I suspect the lamb chops are goat chops.

This morning I was up early. I was standing on the terrace. Down the path/road to my right about 500 feet was a pickup truck. I saw a man come out of the house holding what I thought was a dog. As the truck drove by, I saw I was wrong. Two goats. “Lambs” being lead to the slaughter.

Enjoy your day!

A NOTHING DAY

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Yesterday moved fast. The day seemed short. Before I knew it, bed time had arrived.

The reasons are obvious.

I slept later than normal. A sign I am enjoying the trip.

It took me four hours to do yesterday’s blog. It was a two-dayer. I must have been verbose. It ran 2500 words. My blogs are normally 300 to 800 words.

When I finished the blog, it was mid afternoon. I was hungry. Returned to Mezza’s. It has become a favorite place.

One of my favorite Key West meals is Cuban cheese toast with tomato. The absolute best! The butter helps.

Mezza’s menu listed a cheese tomato toast sandwich. Why not? It was not the same. Good. Nowhere as good as the Key West version, however. The sandwich consisted of two slices of white thin bread toasted crispy with cheese and tomato. Hot. Cheese was melted. Bread slices unusually large.

I was still hungry. I think it was actually that my eyes were bigger than my stomach. Milk shakes on the menu! I enjoyed a chocolate milk shake. Terrific!

From where I was sitting in Mezza’s, I had a clear wide view of the bay. So lovely! I wish everyone could see it. While sitting there, I observed another Key West familiarity. Weddings. Saw three brides and grooms taking pictures. One reason Nikos had no room at his cave hotel for me is that a wedding party has taken most of his rooms for the week.

I spent the next few hours sitting on my little balcony overlooking Back Street. The breeze coming off the ocean at me from three directions. I read. The latest Eisenhower book. One thing I have learned is that generals live like kings. Great residences and service. Especially when in a war zone.

Got tired. Took a two hour nap.

I was finally out at nine. Where to have dinner the issue. I saw a new restaurant on a side street. A second floor job. Subdued lighting. I walked over. It was a Cypriot restaurant. I had never experienced Cypriot food. So up I went.

Unfortunately, I did not enjoy my meal. Too rich. It stayed with me into the middle of the night.

No screwing around tonight. It is tried and true for me. Back to Taverna Katina!

Some observations.

Santorini has fishing boats similar to Amorgos. Basically converted row boats. They add a motor on the back. One man per boat. He will spend every day of his life earning a living this way. I took a pic or two of the boats. They were shown on Facebook yesterday.

I have come to the conclusion I have the only beard in Oia. Oia is the town in Santorini I am at. Not one beard have I seen other than mine in the mirror. Whether tourist or local. All clean shaven.

Age. I am constantly being made aware of mine. I think I am the only “old man” on the island. I have not seen one person that I would place in his or her late 70s.

I was only in Athens two nights last week. I would like more of Athens. I am trying to rearrange my schedule to be back there again for 2-3 additional days near the end of the trip.

My next stop is Amorgos. I will be there thursday. For three weeks. Love Amorgos! That is why I booked myself in there for such a long stay.

Enjoy your day!

GREAT SUNRISE

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I was lucky this morning. I woke just as the sun was breaking over the horizon. Just me, open water and the sun. Magnificent!

Yesterday was Sunday. Turned out to be an odd ball day for me. I had a business project to complete. Thought it would take an hour or two. Took all day.

The only time I left the house was to have Sunday dinner with Lisa and the family. Corey is growing a beard. Looks good. Robert is into baseball. Has a first baseman’s mitt and a hard ball. Ally could care less about anything.

A superb meal! Dessert the best. Crumb cake by Lisa.

I spent ten days on Amorgos. I would like to spend ten years. As you will recall, the only way in and out was the once a week boat. I obviously took it.

My goal was to get to Athens. Not easy. Although only one boat ride. the trip took nine hours. The boat was a local. It stopped at every small island on the way to Athens. Five hours into the trip and I was still within 50 miles of Amorgos.

I got on the boat at 6 in the morning. It was dark. Four of us.

Coming to Amorgos, I rode tourist class. Packed in like sardines. if you think nine across on an airplane is bad, how about thirty. Ten, ten and ten. I learned there was a business class. Business class is first class on the boat. I went business class.

It was well worth it!

The trip was not bad. I actually enjoyed it.

Business class consisted of a huge room on top of the boat. Well done. Service. All kinds of amenities, food and drink. Enjoyed breakfast. A drink or two. Lunch. A chocolate ice cream soda. An occasional coffee. I slept on and off. Actually slept most of the way. Missed some terrific sights I was told. Business class was surrounded with huge windows offering a view of everything.

There are only three photos of the nine hour trip. All are of me sleeping.

The three photos are shared with you this morning. Scroll down.

Enjoy your day!

AMORGOS AND CAPTAIN PETER

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Amorgos and Captain Peter! The two are nowhere related. However, both represent joyful experiences and so share the title of today’s blog.

Last night was a very good one. Unusually good. It was Captain Peter’s 70th birthday. We partied. Played in a bocce make up match. We won all three games. It is a pleasure to share the evening with you. First however, the Amorgos photos.

You will recall the Greek isle of Amorgos was my favorite of the five Greek places visited.

Amorgos is a nothing island sitting out in the extremes of the Agean Sea. I had not planned to visit Amorgos. I was stuck on Mykonos three extra days because of weather. I was desperate to get out. Finally a boat was available. To a place called Amorgos. I went.

Amorgos is a relatively small island. Has six towns. The population is limited. Not many people live on Amorgos. The official population is 1,859. Amorgos’ claim to fame is a Monastery and an earthquake. I have seaparate photos of the Monastery that will be shown in a day or two. The earthquake occurred on July 9, 1953. Left 53 dead. Amorgos was my third island. Santorini and Mykonos preceded it. All three had a history of volcanic explosions. Sort of compares to the hurricane season in Key West. A threat always there. You never know.

I stayed in the town of Katapola. I did not know the name when I landed.

Amorgos’ connection with the outside world is the boat that comes in once a week. On wednesday. Assuming the weather is ok. The winds can be horrific.

I saw very few automobiles on the island. Not ten total. There was a bus. I wondered then and wonder now how they got the gasoline to fuel the few cars, bus and fishing boats. The gasoline had to come in on the once a week boat. Where it was stored, pumped, I never learned.

I loved Amorgos! Again, the best of the Greek places visited. Why? Because it was so serene and quiet. Nothing to do. Peaceful. Old. The people were from another century. Men and women alike dressed in black. Regardless of age. I was told black shuns the sun better than light colored apparel.

Twelve photos.

The first is the view from my terrace. The view says it all.

The next is an inner shot of the terrace. I spent most of my time on the terrace sitting at the table during the ten days I was on Amorgos.

I sat on the terrace in the evening also, as seen in the next photo.

As indicated before, I spent considerable time on the terrace. The next photo is of me sitting on the terrace reading. I did this all day, every day. Never went in the water. Sat, read, and slept. And ate, of course. My landlord would bring me fresh apricots every morning from his garden to start my day.

Another shot of me on the terrace.

The bay I lived on was horseshoe in shape. I walked around the horseshoe one day and had lunch. The photo is me and the restaurant. On the water. Simple. I could not figure out how the owner made it. I was the only customer at lunch time.

Note the boats in the restauant picture and the ones in the next photo. Fishing is Amorgos’ industry. They fish for themselves and the few restauants on the island. Provincially. Most of the fishing boats are mere rowboats with a motor on the back.

Again, Amorgos is from another time.

Every Greek island has a chora. Also known as hora. Means old town. You saw Mykonos’ chora. Now, Amorgos’.

Amorgos’ chora was way up on a hill. Hills again! I took the bus up. The bus had to be 40 plus years old. Shaked, rattled and rolled. But made it! I thought as the bus traveled up the hill that I was like the bus. Getting older and still hanging in there.

Once you enter the chora, everything is up hill. Whether a path or steps. So many steps! A stress test unto itself.

The next photo is me starting into the chora. Old means old. This chora was more than a 1,000 years old. It consisted primarily of homes. People still live in the 1,000 year old buildings. There was also a bar or restaurant every 200 feet or so.

I was mid way into the chora and ready to die. I needed to sit. The yellow chairs in the next photo were my salvation.

The next pic is me sitting in a yellow chair. Tired! Note my beard was growing. I looked like a bum! Did not care!

The next photo is a chora street scene. Pretty. Narrow. Only room for a galloping horse when built 1,000 years ago. Today, only foot traffic. Cars would not fit.

The final photo is me sitting on a stoop. The steps to some one’s home. I was lost. Dead tired. Could not find my way out of the chora. Sat on that stoop till I regained my energies.

So much for Amorgos. Hope you enjoyed.

It was Peter’s birthday yesterday. Seventy years old. A surprise party was planned for him at 5 at the Chart Room. Many friends. Emily, Sheila, Sean, Che, David, Jean, John DeSantis, and many others.

Also present were some friends of Emily. She referred to them as her grad school friends. About 8-10. From Louisville and Pensacola and perhaps elsewhere. Nice people. One was Fred. Fred owns a parking lot at Churchill Downs. Must be like owning Sloppy Joe’s in Key West.

I was at the Chart Room for a half hour and still no Happy birthday! There was a table full of cake, key lime pie, and other goodies. The candle was on the key lime pie. Peter never realized the people and eats were for him. Not till Emily walked up with the pie and candle and every one sang Happy Birthday!

Peter is a good guy. Loved by all. May we all share more of his birthdays with him and with each other.

Bocce was part of my evening, also. We had a make up game for one that had been rained out.

I hurried over to the bocce courts. I knew I would be late. I had already told Captain David. I learned when I arrived that we had won the two final games after I had left the night before.

I played the third game. We won all three games last night. We are on a run! A total of six victories in two nights! Everyone is playing well. May we continue to so play.

It was very comfortable playing last night. No humidity. A cold front had come in in the afternoon. Dropped the temperature 10 degrees to the high 70s. The cold front is still here today. A strong wind is coming from the north. There are big waves off my deck.

I spent yesterday afternoon researching. Also published on Amazon Kindle an article I ran a few weeks ago in KONK Lfe: Catholic Church…..200 Years Out Of Date. It speaks of the death bed interview with Cardinal Carl Maria Martini. The Cardinal was high up in the Papal hierarchy. He thought Pope Brnedict II was being too hard ass (my language), supported condom use in certain circumstances, was not against birth control, remarriage after divorce was ok, and commented on many other things afflicting/conflicting the Catholic Church today. One of his most meaningful observations was to the effect that …..our Churches are empty.

The Cardinal died four days after the interview was given.

I mentioned my Quest neighbors yesterday, There is a film crew next door. Cameras and lights all over. On the roof, on the grounds, etc. It is a new TV film series being shot next door and in the lower Florida keys. Its stars are young men from all over the country. Eighteen to 23. I cannot tell you what the show is specically about. I do not know. It appears a lot of money is being spent on it.

The individual locally putting the show together is Key West’s Denise Jackson. I did not know her. Met her for the first time two nights ago.

Enjoy your day!

DAYS 43 and 44

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I am back!

In lovely humid rainy Key West!

Truly, there is no place like home. My pillow and mattress. My bathroom. My comfort and comfort factor.

There is a movie called Independence Day. One of the Quaide brothers is in it. The crazy one. I think Randy. At the end of the movie, Quaide opts to fly his plane into a huge war vessel from outer space. One that has been destroying earth. He knows there is a nuclear bomb stuck in an opening to the air vessel. As he aims his plane for it in order to destroy the enemy and of necessity himself, he shouts with a smile on his face…..I’m back! That is how I feel.

Good does not accurately describe the trip. It was trerrific! Two months in three foreign countries. What could be better!

This is a two day blog. Sunday, my last full day in Novara. Monday, my trip home.

I tried to do the blog yesterday in Atlanta between planes. Too tried. No way could I do it.

Sunday was full of last minute details.

Terrific lunch! A fresh fish. Broiled whole. A bit of oil.

Shopped. For Robert and Ally. Found a lovely white shift dress for Ally. It matches the one I bought for Lisa in Athens. Found a great bathing suit for Robert. I never bought anything for Corey or Cameron. Saw nothing that turned me on. They will get my best wishes and an apology.

I spent a portion of Sunday afternoon reading a couple of English newspapers. British. Hard to come by. I love reading and missed it a lot on the trip. Not enough English material available.

Then a Sunday afternoon nap. Followed by packing. Always a pain.

I was surprised that my bags were less full than when I left. I could not have become such a great packer in such a short time. This morning I received an e mail. I left a lot of stuff in the apartment in Novara.

Some observations I would like to share with you. Some previously mentioned. However, worth mentioning again.

When I was preparing to leave for the trip, many people told me to be careful. Europpeans did not like Americans. I did not know what to expect.

They were all wrong. One hundred per cent. The Greeks and Italians I met all loved me and Americans. They want to know more about us. They want to live here. Two asked me to take them with me when I returned. They were serious. This is the land of milk and honey from their perspective.

In Greece, Italy and France all one hears music wise are American songs. Sung in English. In Greece where I spent about four weeks, I only heard Greek tunes 3 times. Never in Italy or Greece. They are American crazy!

They like Americans on a personal basis, also. They sought me out for conversation purposes. They have an unending interest in us and our ways.

Greeks work hard. Harder than most. Harder than the Italians.

Greeks try to make a buck when they can. Their season is 6 months. They work 6 months. Seven days a week. Twelve hours a day. I did not meet one Greek who did not work that shift. The Greeks understood you have to make it when you can.

The Italians must have enough money. They close from 12-3. Nothing is open on Sunday. Including restaurants. Saturdays are slow business days also, in the sense that little is open.

Greeks and Italians hate Germans. Both got screwed over by Germany in World War II. The feeling still exists. That is why Merkel’s Germany is so disliked by Greeks and Italians. World War II was only 65 years ago. Recall how we still fight the Civil War in the United States and that war has been behind us more than 150 years.

Of the three countries visted, each had its own unique personality. The people each different. I liked the Greeks the best. Warm. The Italians are stand offish. The French snobbish. They think their s–t does not stink.

I could not sleep Sunday night. I had to rise at 4:30 to drive one hour to Milan to be at the airport and check in 2 hours before flight time. In Europe, if you do not check your bags 2 hours before, the bags do not get on the plane. You are told this by the airlines constantly.

I was up at 4:30. I slept little worrying that I might not wake timely.

It was a pleasant drive to Milan. No traffic to speak of.

The Milan to Atlanta Delta flight was 10.5 hours. A long time. I read one whole Girshom novel, 2 English newspapers and a Time magazine. Plus watched a movie. Time moved quickly for me.

I had a 5 hour lay over in Atlanta. A killer. I started falling asleep in the airport. I kept fighting the sleep for fear I would miss my plane.

Lisa and the grandkids met me at the Key West airport. A grand feeling to see them! Robert and Ally ran to hug and kiss me. They had both made a welcoming home card for me. It was wonderful to see Lisa, also. Robert and Ally were in their pajamas. It was past their bed time.

I finally got to bed at 11 last night. Slept two shifts of 2.5 hours each. Otherwise wide awake. I figure I have at least 5 days of jet lag with which to deal.

Customs in Atlanta was a big deal. A lot of it. Europe no where as thorough as we are.

There was a young man in front of me. He was stopped 3 times and questioned. One time the dog sniffed his bag. I thought he was dead there. He got through. Till the end. Then security came over and took his passport and him.

My shaved head now has hair. Short, but obvious. I am going to keep it. However, a trim needed which I hope I can get from Lori today.

I grew a beard. Well, lets say I am trying. I have not shaved in over 5 weeks. I think I look gritty. Everyone including Lisa likes it. I will live with it for a while. What I love about the beard is that I do not have to shave. I have always hated shaving.

DAY 44 is the end of the story of my trip. As said before, I am back. Tomorrow the blog will return to normal. And shorter. I had to write long blogs on the trip to be sure I shared everything with you.

There will be an epiloque of sorts. In one to two weeks. I took or had taken over 600 pictures. I want to put some together and share them with you. Things like Louis and the volcano, the monastery steps, and the like.

Who knows, there might be a book in all this.

Thank you for bearing with me through this almost seven week trip. Love you all!

Enjoy your day!

DAYS 31 and 32

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I am back! Missed a day. Yesterday. Big traveling day.

I am sad to say I left Amorgos. It is like Key West in my feelings. Twenty five years ago on my first visit I knew some day I wanted to live in Key West. Amorgos leaves me with the same feeling. No way, however. Key West is home and I am happy there.

I am in Athens. A big vibrant teeming city. After spending more than three weeks on three different Greek isles, I needed a return to the normal world.

I am doing my two days in Athens big time. Staying at the world famous Grande Bretagne. It is civilization. Opulent. Service till you fall over it. Tons of fresh clean towels. A woman to give me a manicure. A real shower. Not one of those small confines with a hand held shower head. Big bed with a great mattress. Clean sheets every day.

The modern conveniences!

My last day on Amorgos was spent doing exactly what I liked. I sat in my bathing suit with my feet propped on another chair on my terrace. A baseball cap on my head backwards. And read. Except for an hour in the afternoon when I went in to take a nap.

Dinner was with Demetrius. He made a fuss. I told him…..I shall return!

Yesterday was a new experience. My 9 hour boat trip to Athens. I was not excited. The starting time was too early. The length off the trip too long. I expected an old beat up trawler with a handful of people.

What surprise! The boat was fantastic!

Big. Three stories. Long. A ferry boat in effect. The first floor for cars. Don’t know why. There are not that many cars in the Greek isles to fill the mammoth space. Two floors for passengers. Roughly 400. The second floor all economy class. The third, half economy and first class. The other half business class.

I was in business class. Explanation time. Classes when traveling are not the same as in the U.S. Whereas first class is tops, in Greece business class is. The Greek first class is comparable to our business class.

You would not believe the business class salon. Easy chairs and sofas. That’s all to sit on. Pure comfort. Always a table nearby for a drink or whatever. Service. Waiters. A small bar with little goodies to eat. Only half full.

The trip was a treat! Rather than the dreaded experience I thought was before me.

DAY 30

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An interesting experience this morning.

I was sitting on the terrace reading. It was very early. The sun had just risen.

I assumed the rest of Amorgos was still sleeping. It was. Except for one elderly Greek woman.

She came walking by. Wrinkled face. White hair. Tanned. Dressed in black dress and stockings.

She stopped and talked with me. She spoke smilingly and occasionally excitedly. In Greek, of course.

I sat there smiling at her. Nodding my head in agreement on occasion.

I never spoke a word. Nor did I understand the Greek she was throwing at me.

At the end of whatever she was telling me, she gave me a big smile and walked away.

Notice how well I speak Greek!

Yesterday, I walked. Once more to the other side of the bay. About 2 miles. My gait and wind are much better. I was moving along.

I lunched at an outdoor cafe overlooking the harbor. A spectacular view. All views are spectacular here in the Greek isles.

I ate at Demetrius’ again last night. Why not. The food is outstanding.

Demetrius’ place is nothing appearance wise. An old old small building with a beat up awning outside. Maybe a dozen small tables.

The place is packed every evening by 9.

Last night, I had ceci peas. Soft. Covered in a tomato/oil sauce. With De Vito type bread on the side to clean the plate.

My entre was a chunk of lamb and boiled potatoes covered in a similar sauce as the ceci peas. I was told the lamb was local. I suspect the poor animal had been killed within 24 hours of it showing up on the plate before me.

The lamb melted in my mouth.

I showed up for dinner at 9. Finished at 11. The Greeks eat slowly.
Then to bed.

Tonight is my last in Amorgos. I will have been here a week. I leave tomorrow for 2 days in Athens. I am returning to Athens to do some things I did not when last I was there 3 weeks ago.

I shall miss Amorgos.

Permit me to share some random observations with you about this island.

I suggested this past week that Amorgos probably had 2,000 residents. I was close. 1,859. On an island more than 50 miles long.

Amorgos is as it was 200 years ago. Perhaps even before.

The houses are concrete. All white. Each more than 200 years old. High ceilings. Irregular walls.

The people are 80 to 100 years ago. Throwbacks from another time. Simple people. Good people.

There are few cars on Amorgos. Two means of transportation exist. Your feet and three wheeled bicycles. Three wheelers all over the place with big baskets on the back.

The men generally 50 plus. Many 70 plus. Paunchy. White haired. Dress in black. The women the same. For whatever reason, the women’s faces are especially wrinkled.

The reason both sexes dress in black is that it supposedly is cooler than wearing a lighter color.

Honesty prevails! Eleni and I discovered each other when first I arrived. I had one big bag. She insisted on rolling it along. Not far. She stopped in front of a building. Note we are standing on the harbor front. Busiest place on the island. She told me to follow her. But she left my bag alone. What about my bag? Don’t worry, she said. No one will steal it.

Her husband drives a three wheel bike. He parks it outside at night on the concrete walkway in front of this building. A public thoroughfare. No lock. Any one could ride it away. No one does.

My apartment sits on the bay of Amorgos. I see the boats come in and go out. Not that many. There are no big boats. Some evenings, 2-3 big sailboats. People put in for the night. Otherwise, the boats moored or otherwise tied up in the water are small.

Really small.

The predominant vessel is a row boat. Yes, these fisherman go out into the sea to catch their ware in row boats. If you think about it, it is not so strange. In Hemingway’s Old Man and the Sea, the fisherman was out on the ocean in a row boat the whole story.

There are some ancient type boats, also. A couple of feet longer than a row boat. A rudder in the back.

The boats are evidence of my representation that Amorgos is significantly behind the times.

Few tourists. The island is off the beaten track. Only two boats a week. I think Amorgos is absolutely fantastic! And cheap! Everything costs nothing. A person could easily live here on a Social Security check. And still have money left over!

The tourists are from all over the world. They all come for the same reasons. Peace, solitude and the cheap cost.

The locals are a happy group. Difficult to know at first. They are wary of strangers. But in less than a week, I have become a welcomed guest on their island.

There are young people. However, not that many. The proof of the pudding. There is only one disco on the island. The younger people probably leave Amorgos for bigger and better things when they come of age. I hope some of them return in due course. Everything they will be looking for in later life is already here.

Internet and wi fi service comes and goes. Every restaurant and hotel claims they have it. Impossible to find! You become adjusted. Take it in stride. Eventually it returns.

Fresh fruit a delight! An example is a gift Eleni’s husband gave me. He has a garden next to my building. It runs three stories up a little hill. Everything runs upward on Amorgos. He has an apricot tree. One day, he brought me a bowl full of apricots. They were small and ripe. Delicious. Made my mouth water.

As else where in Greece, clothes lines everywhere. Front porches, sides of buildings, where ever. Even I have had a clothesline this past week. At the far end of my terrace. For my sole use. I have used it.

I leave tomorrow at 6 in the morning. I have no choice. The two boats a week in and out both leave at 6. It is a 9 hour trip to Athens. Going to be fun. Not really. However, I am going business class and am told it will make the trip considerably easier.

Due to the time constraints tomorrow, I may not be able to do the blog. We shall see.

I have experienced four Greek places this trip. A brief evaluation is in order.

Athens I liked. It is a big city like New York. Excitement everywhere. The reason I am returning for two days more.

The best viewwise was Santorini. Spectacular. I sat with God. The food was not that good, however. Santorini is in transit. It is going from a small unknown island to a major tourist attraction. It is closer to being a major tourist attraction.

Mykonos I did not like at all. It is a tourist trap. It sells yesterday to people who want that life style. I have no desire to return to Mykonos.

Overall, Amorgos is the winner. The view is good. Plus the island has a great package otherwise. Quiet. Solitude. Good food. Nice people. The opportunity to travel at your own pace.

That’s it. The next time you hear from me will be from Athens.

Enjoy your day!

DAY 29

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Nearer my God to Thee!

I was there. I was close. I visited the monastery on Amorgos yesterday. Way up in the sky sitting on the side of a very high cliff.

Some pertinent background information first. Then my personal experience.

The Monastery is also called the Monastery of Hozoviotissa. Do not ask what it means. I do not know. Could not ascertain. It has something to do with the Virgin Mary, however.

There was an Emperor Alexius back in the 11th century. Whether he was emperor of only Amorgos or more, I do not know. As the story goes, a mysterious icon of the Virgin Mary arrived on the beach below the cliff. No one knew nor could discover where it came from.

Emperor Alexius concluded it had been Divinely sent to him. He decided to build a shrine on the spot to honor the Virgin.

The spot could not be the beach. A house cannot be built on sand. There was only the beach and a cliff. The cliff towered. Straight up. Three thousand feet or better. Alexius decided the shrine should be built on the side of the cliff. The cliff that was sheer and high.

He ended up building a monastery to house the Virgin icon. The Monastery constructed is 8 stories tall. For real. Built a couple of thousand feet up the side of a sheer wall of stone. The Monastery itself is constructed of stone, marble and whatever concrete was back then.

Now to put everything in perspective. Louis’ journey and visit to the Monastery.

My first step was to take a bus. To Chora. The old part of town I visited a couple of days ago. The road to Chora is basically straight up a high mountain. The Chora area continues straight up. Evverything here is up, up and more up!

Fortunately, the bus dropped me off near the top side of the Chora. Then it was a long walk to the gate to the Monastery. Up hill, of course.

The gate did not mean I was there. It was merely an entrance.

The next step (a good word to use) in the process was to climb the steps to the Monastery. Note, I am walking up the side of a sheer cliff.

There are 300 steps. They twist a bit. Always up. Never down. Not even once.

The steps are not of normal construction. Their height varied little. Their width and length very much. Like 5-10 feet.

The steps were constructed of stone. A slate type. I do not know if they are the original steps from the 11th century or have been replaced. The stones/slates were worn. A few missing here and there.

Basically, the steps had the side of the cliff on one side and a drop off the cliff on the other.

The Monastery was at the other end of the 300 steps. Almost straight up. I keep stressing the straight. Simply because it was that way. I would estimate the steps were at a 75 degree angle or better. That is straight up!

You will recall, I failed to make it to the top of the volcano. I was not gung ho to make it to the top here. If I did, good. If not, it would have been a valiant effort. I would give it a try!

I made it to the top. To the Monastery. It took a while. Quite a while. I stopped about a dozen times. Sat a while on a step. The stress on my body did not seem as bad as the volcano attempt.

I was thinking why was I making it now and could not with the volcano. I concluded because the volcano was early in my trip and a first attempt at something high and steep. Everything is upward bound in Greece. Hills and steps every where. I have been in Greece more than three weeks now. My body gotten a bit in shape and adapted to the terrain.

The end of the steps did not take me directly into the Monastery. There was still a long walk up a path to the Monastery door.

I was there!

Awesome is the only way to describe what I saw. A mammoth white building running to the sky. Recall, the building is described as eight stories tall. That is tall. Especially when you are standing at the foot of the structure.

The building was constructed on the side of a sheer cliff. I could not help but think sadly how many slaves were involved and how many died in erecting this shrine. I also thought the engineers and architects of the 11th century had to be brilliant to have constructed such a large edifice under extremely difficult conditions.

The front door. Small. Tiny. At best 5 feet in height. Maybe less. Three to three and a half feet in width. The only entrance. I had to bend over to enter.

I suspect the Monastery entrance was so constructed because people were shorter back then. Additionally, it was a good way to ward off invaders. Only one bad guy at a time could enter.

The first room on the other side of the entrance. The first thing I saw was a table with clothes. Women’s dresses, men’s pants, etc.

There is a strict dress code. No shorts on men. Women in dresses. Not even pants. Shoulders and beasts covered. If you are not so attired, the monks provide the appropriate clothing. I was glad I had been forewarned. I wore khakis. The clothes available at the monastery were filthy. Looked like they had not been washed in 50 years.

Awesome continued to be my impression as I walked through the rooms. Amazing what my eyes beheld.

Art work in each room. Fantastic art work! Paintings. Icons. The sanctuary where the Virgin Mary icon was shown defies description. That beautiful.

An eight story structure has many windows. The views from the windows magnificent! Open sea to the front. The beach below. All in glorious color. It was like almost being in Heaven and looking down.

There was a social aspect. A monk came out at the end of our visit. The only monk I had seen. The monks here take a vow never to speak or see outsiders the rest of their lives. This monk apparently had a dispensation.

We were seated in a long narrow room. There was a throne at one end. A long narrow beautiful wood table. A long couch with very comfortable cushions on each side.

The monk served us a sweet drink. A wine of some sort. And a sweet. A piece of candy covered with sugar. He spoke. Gave some sort of dissertation. Unfortunately, it was in Greek. I understood none of it.

The monk was interesting. He was tall and thin. Appeared aged. Had a very long beard. Like down to his chest. He was dressed in a blue flowing robe. A hat/head cover of the same color.

I found his hands and face skin interesting. Dirty. Perhaps he had come to see us directly from the fields. But there were no fields. We were attached to a cliff. Then, he did not bathe that often. It was the only viable conclusion I could come to.

Between the dirty clothes at the beginning for those not properly dressed and the monk’s lack of cleanliness, I assumed the axiom that cleanliness is next to Godliness did not apply at the Monastery.

I made a meager contribution to the Monastery as I left.

There was a guest book. I signed and dated it. I wanted the whole world to know I had made it. I also inscribed above my signature…..Just amazing!!!

The trip down was not so bad. I took my time so I would not fall.

The bus was at the end of the Chora waiting where we had been dropped off. It was back to Amorgos.

An interesting trip. I am glad I have been able to share it with you.

Enjoy your day!