CHORA

I visited Chora last night. Also known as hora.

Most Greek isles have a Chora. A community of sorts. Generally, a town. Most are medieval in origin. Go back 1,500 to 2,000 years. They still look the same. Unchanged by time. White buildings, narrow walkways.

Choras were built on hilltops. For protective and defensive purposes. Amorgos’ Chora is on top of a tall mountain. Just over the top. So it could not be seen by ships entering the bay. Way back when, pirates were a problem. By constructing their homes just over the crest, the early Greeks were hopeful their community would not be spotted.

If discovered, the set up of the Chora assisted in its defense. The entrance to the Chora was always a very narrow walkway. The attackers were only able to enter single file or two abreast at the most. Chora’s defenders were better able to protect their homes and families and at the same time do the most damage to invaders.

People still live in Chora. Old and young alike. Businesses have opened. Tiny specialty stores and restaurants.

I took the bus to Chora. A ten minute drive. 1.60 euros each way. A bargain.

The buses are magnificent. Large. Air conditioned. Comfortable. The drivers friendly and adept at driving. They have to be. The road up and down is steep and full of dangerous curves. The drivers carry themselves as if they were Captains on a jet airliner.

I walked the same path as last year. You will recall Chora killed me last year. Steps up. Everything up. It was a horrible trip.

This year, I did it with ease. Surprised even myself. I am in better condition.

I went to the same cafe/restaurant as last year. Along the way, I spotted Maria’s store. Maria who did my nails a couple of days ago. Her store is named Kwati. Sells soaps, oils and some foodstuffs. I was especially taken by pint jars of broccoli in oil and garlic.

I sat outside the cafe and drank. Three gins. They were all big. I was surprised. Even had Tanqueray. I sat there close to three hours.

Marie had mentioned I should try raki psimeni. A Greek drink made with burnt sugar. I did. Sweet. Good.

I cannot tell you the name of the restaurant. It was in Greek. Not an easy language written wise. Letters not arabic.

I have discovered that when I ask someone to spell a Greek word in English, there is difficulty. However most can spell it in Latin. It does help. I took three years of Latin in high school and also served as an altar boy.

Cats are a big deal in Chora, as well as all of Amorgos. They are well liked. Permitted in restaurants and cafes. They are beggars. People constantly feed them. I cannot. I find it repulsive.

Trees. I mentioned yesterday or the day before that there were no trees on Amorgos. There are. In Chora. Tons of them. Why not elsewhere, I do not know.

The evenings have been cold while I have been on Amorgos. Chora was cold by day and even colder by night. The wind on top of the mountain was strong. Could knock you over. You bent with it. Came from every direction. Buildings were no protective help. The wind moved around corners with ease.

I had planned to have dinner in Chora. The cold dissuaded me. I decided to leave.

I screwed up. Got the return trip wrong time wise. My fault. I did not understand the bus driver. Missed the bus. There was a 1 1/2 hour wait for the next one.

The bus stop is just outside Chora. No protection. The wind bellowed. So cold I could have used a winter jacket. And long pants. I was wearing shorts. Fortunately, I found a small bar just at the entrance and got the protection from the wind that I needed.

Enjoy your day!

SCHINOUSSA ISLAND

I had a terrific breakfast this morning!

You will recall Maria and Nikolas have a garden. They sell vegetables to Amorgos’ restaurants. Maria was especially proud of their tomatoes.

Last night when I returned from Schinoussa Island, Nikolas drove up. He handed me a bag of tomatoes. Twelve plump beauties. I refrigerated them till this morning.

Tomatoes are actually part of the fruit family. So why not have them for breakfast! I sliced away, covered them with olive oil, threw on a little oreganato and salt. Earlier, I had gone to the bakery. I bought a small French loaf of whole wheat bread.

The sun had just come up. I sat outside and enjoyed my breakfast. Absolutely magnificent! The best tasting tomatoes I have ever eaten!

The tomatoes have nothiong to do with Schinoussa Island. They were so good I had to share my pleasure with you.

As sometimes we say in Key West…..I have to get off the rock, I felt like getting off Amorgos yesterday. Decided to visit Schinoussa Island.

The Greek Isles are like the Florida Keysandr the Thousand islands on the St. Lawrence. Many. All sizes, all shapes. Different attractions. You get to them by ferry boat. The ferry boat is the bus line between the smaller islands. I took the 7 a.m. ferry.

A two hour trip. Had to stop Koutonisti Island first. A pleasant trip. I slept most of the way.

Why Schinoussa? The locals are aware I enjoy Amorgos because of its peace and quiet. They told me if I really wanted peace and quiet, I should visit Schinoussa. I took their advice.

Schinoussa’s port was nowhere. I was dropped off where nothing existed. Only three small houses scattered in the distance. A dirt road. I subsequently found out most of the roads are unpaved.

A little more Schinoussa fact wise.

Schinoussa has a total population estimated beytween 120-150 persons. Its size is 2 miles x 2 miles. Much like the size of Key West. It has two cities. Chora, its capital and I cannot remember the name of the other. The other was on the opposite side of the island and had a population of 20. Many beaches. Sand fine, but gray colored. Water magnificent. Blue and clear.

Goats abound. White and black/gray. Another dart in my albino theory! A total of six pensiones on the whole island.

Very few vehicles. Transportation is by pedmobile. You walk. The alternative is to ride a donkey. Many of the natives do. There are few motor vehicles. Generally, they are pick up trucks.

The ferry boat cost 16 euros round trip. $17 American money. That had me sitting in the special lounge class. A comfortable easy chair. Refreshments available for purchase.

I landed. I was standing on Mother Earth. How the hell was I going to get around? By the way, I was the only one who got off the boat at Schinoussa.

A beat up pick up truick appeared out of nowhere. A man offered me a ride. He spoke excellent English. Turned out he owned one of the six pensiones on the island. His game was to pick up a tourist such as myself and show him his place. Grispos Villas.

Grispos Villas was lovely! Relatively new, great rooms and balconies overlooking the Aegean Sea. A magnificednt beach. A restaurant to boot. There are only four on the island.

The beaches were different from others I have recently seen. There were trees. Amorgos has no trees. Only large bushes and not many of them. Schinoussa was loaded with trees. The beaches reminded me of the ones in Tampa/St. Petersburg. A wide beach backed by trees. The trees were low overhanging and provided excellent shelter from the sun.

Grispos was the name of the man who picked me up at the port, the owner of Grispos Villas. He wanted to drive me around the island. I said no, let me walk. It was impossible to get lost. The island was relatively flat.

I was walking along a dirt road running parallel to the beach when another pick up truck came by and stopped. This one was really old. Like maybe 30 years. The driver was equally old. I should not say that as I am 78. He probably was younger. However his years in the sun had weathered, bronzed and wrinkled his face. As well as his vehicle.

His name was Dion.

He offered me a ride. I took it. By this time, I was tired from the sun and dusty. Remember, most of the roads are dirt.

Dion worked the land and kept goasts and mules. He had both colored goats. One of the whites was big. Not an albino, of course.

He took me to Chora. Chora is the island’s capital.

Every Greek isle has a Chora. It is the old town. The oldest on an island. Generally going back 1,500 years. Not this Chora. Looked relatively new compared to the others I had seen. It was.

This Chora was only one street long. It was constructed after 1800. Prior to 1800, no one lived on Schinoussa. For some reason I could not determine, a small group settled the island at that time. They came from Amorgos. Would you believe! No 1,500 years for this Chora. Probably less than 200 years.

I took the ferry back later in the afternoon. Arrived in Amorgos at six.

Schinoussa was quiet and peaceful. More quiet than Amorgos. Next year, I plan on spending a week on Schinoussa. Most of the time will be spent contemplating my navel.

A big military vessel came in last night. A Greek Navy ship. It is sitting just inside the entrance to the bay.

I am not a ship expert. Especially a military one. The ship had to be bigger than a cruiser or destroyer. Not as large as a carrier.

Very ominous. Created a bit of fear in me. I could understand how when we have trouble with a foreign country, we send a carrier to sit off its shore. Has to scare the hell out of those who see it!

Amorgos was loaded with sailors last night. All in deress whites.

My friend Terri White. She returns to New York City for an engagement on July 31. From a park bench to Park Ave.

Terri will be appearing at the 54 Below Broadway Night Club. If you are in New York at the time, watch Terri perform. She is the best!

Tonight, dinner in Chora. I am going to visit Maria at her store before.

Enjoy your day!

NO ALBINO ANYTHING ON AMORGOS

It’s called living and learning!

I saw a big white goat a few days ago. I assumed it was an albino goat and reported it as such.

Wednesday, I rented a car to drive the island exploring. As I came around a very tight curve, what do I behold on the road walking towards me? Two white goats! There cannot be three albino goats on this small island. It would be like finding three albino chickens in Key West.

Thursday, I was walking one of the many dirt paths on Amorgos. I saw a pure white mule. Would you believe!

An albino mule?

This time I was a bit cautious. I discussed the mule and goats with some friends afterwards. There are many white mules on Amorgos. Why white, I do not know. But here they are! There are also many white goats.

Obviously an albino expert I am not!

While driving around Wednesday, I found a lovely small beach. A big cove. About fifty bathers. There was a small shack. Hamburgers, beers, and the like. Enjoyed a hamburger and beer and took in the scene.

My car was parked in a line of cars. The lot was not that full when I arrived. Upon leaving, it was car to car.

When I tunred into my car to get in, there was this lovely woman. Standing between her car and mine. Bare ass! She was changing into her bathing suit and I came upon her at the right moment.

I smiled. She smiled. I turned my back and walked away. A gentleman am I. What more could I see anyhow? I had seen it all.

I gave her a few moments and returned. She was just walking away. Smiled again and said something in Greek which I assume was thank you.

Another port concert Wednesday night. I ate at Mythos so I could watch. Terrific! Many violins. Violins are big musical instruments in Greece. A 50ish stout woman was singing. Turns out she has had a successful career as a singer. I enjoyed the show! Traditional Greek music. It had the Greek beat. People jumping up and dancing. All ages.

I met Maria thursday. She gave me a manicure and pedicure. Turns out her young 20s son was one of the featured violin performers the night before.

My finger nails and toe nails were a disaster. Three plus weeks. I could find no clippers to buy. Finally discovered there was a woman in Chora who gave mmanicures and pedicures. Even better, she would come to your hotel/apartment.

I tracked her down. The lady was Maria.

We got together yesterday afternoon at my apartment. We enjoyed each other’s company tremendously. Maria has a terrific sense of humor. Aided of course by the three gins we each consumed during the process.

I still have all my toes and fingers!

Maria is 49, married 23 years and lives full time on Amorgos. She resides in the old town. Chora. She also has a place of business in Chora to do manicures and pedicures. She is professional at her work.

Maria and her husband also have side businesses.

Katwi is the name of their Chora store. They make special soaps containing olive oil, creams with olive oil, marmaledes from their own garden fruits, and a traditional Greek drink called raki psimeni. The raki is made with burnt sugar. I look forward to tasting it.

Maria and her husband are multi-faceted. They also raise chickens and sell them to the local restaurants. In addition, till recently a carpentry business. The building where they did the work burned down. No insurance. Very few have insurance for anything on this small island.

The fire has created many problems. They still owe the bank on the mortgage. I felt sorry for them. She described the situation as having to start all over again.

We talked about business generally. Tourism is everything. Come September, there is no more money to be made till next summer. Business has been down not only on Amorgos, but in all of Greece. Her estimate is 30 per cent. She envisons hard days ahead.

Her husband’s name is Nikolas. I met him when he came to pick her up. A nice guy. Unfortunately, we were not able to communicate. He spoke no English and I no greek.

Maria was one of the persons who told me there are white mules all over Amorogos. I got into the lamb chop scenario with her, also. I am not conviced yet that the lamb is lamb. She told me I was correct. The lamb is really goat.

I knew I was right! Though it tastes as good as the real stuff. In fact, I had “lamb” chops for dinner last night.

I am hoping to have lunch today with Spyros. I enjoy talking with him. He is a knowledgeable businessman and familiar with Greek politics.

Enjoy your day!

FLORA’S STORY

 
A true to life tale reflecting on how well most of us have it. If you do not agree, complain not. For if you do, Flora’s story will put you to shame.
 
Who is Flora?
 
She is the cleaning lady at the pensione I am staying in on Amorgos. She cleans my apartment and every other apartment in the complex once a day. I do not know the exact number of apartments. The building is four stories high and wide, built into a mountain.
 
She cleans toilets, washes the floors, changes the sheets and otherwise keeps each apartment neat and tidy. Seven days a week. Eight to nine hours day. For three straight months. Not for $25 an hour. For 4 euros an hour. Six dollars American money.
 
Floras speaks excellent English. Also, Albanian and Italian.
 
Flora resides in Albania. She has lived in Albania all her life. She is 41 years old. Single, never married.
 
Albania is a small country in southeastern Europe. Greece borders Albania to the south.
 
Albania has an interesting history.
 
Until 1991, Albania was socialistic. A Communist nation. Being small, it thought it needed the protection of a great power. First, it was in a protectorate of China. Then Russia and Yugoslavia. Following the fall of Communist Russia, Albania became a democracy. A parliamentary democracy.
 
The language is Albanian. The country is considered a top ten place for visitors.
 
Religion is a strange combination. Fifty seven per cent are Muslim, seventeen per cent Christian. Only forty per cent pay attention to their religion, however. Albania is ranked the 13th least religious country in the world.
 
Russia is primarily responsible for the lack of religious fervor. When Russia took over Albania following World War II, it banned religion. All religion. As a result, Albania acquired the distinction of being the world’s first atheist state.
 
Today’s Muslims and Christians get along well. Tranquility exists between them. Many Muslims are Muslims only because their ancestors became Muslims during the 500 years Turkey controlled Albania. Muslims and Christians intermarry. No problem. Muslim husbands neither dominate nor mistreat their wives as in most other Muslim countries. The partners to the marriage are equal and treat each other accordingly.
 
When Russia initially took over Albania, the illiteracy rate was 85 per cent. Russia initiated immediate steps to rectify the problem. Within 12 years, the rate was corrected dramatically. Today, 98.7 per cent of the people are literate.
 
Health care is a problem in today’s Albania. A national health program does not exist. Under Russia’s domination, everyone had health care. Today few. If a person has not money to pay, doctors and hospitals will not provide treatment.
 
There is very little HIV-AIDS in Albania. Less than 100 cases.
 
I thought a little Albanian background would be helpful in understanding Flora’s life.
 
Now to Flora.
 
Flora grew up under the Communist system. Her father died when she was seven years old. As indicated, Russia made Albanians literate. Education was important.
 
Flora was a good student. Russia would look at a student’s record and decide what that student would be in later life. Doctor, lawyer or Indian Chief, so to speak. It was determined when Flora was 10 years old that her talents were best accommodated if she became either a teacher or nurse. Teaching became the choice.
 
High school in Albania is eight years. At age 18, Flora graduated. High school can be described as a professional school. Flora at 18 upon graduation from high school was qualified to be a teacher. She immediately was assigned to a school and started teaching.
 
She continued her education at the university level. Her college degree did not affect her earnings significantly. She earned just a bit more after acquiring her degree. Money was not an issue for her. It was the security of the job. Albanians are put into a mold and can expect job security throughout their lives. Money, no.
 
Flora teaches third class. Notice, not grade. Our grades are their classes.
 
Russia’s drive to eliminate illiteracy obviously helped Flora. Without it, she would not have acquired an education nor have become a teacher.
 
Without a father, Flora has been her own decision maker in life.
 
Flora lived under Communism her first 20 years. She says Communism was no good. She and her family, everyone, did not have enough food or clothes. Things have been considerably better under a democratic form of government.
 
Flora presently earns 300 euros a month as a teacher. Her salary continues through the three summer months when school is closed. Though she says it is not enough, she considers herself middle class. I suspect because she is a teacher.
 
Twelve years ago, she bought a house. A small one. One bedroom, a small kitchen, a living room area, and a very small bathroom. No tub. Just a shower. She borrowed money from friends to purchase the home. The mortgage was recently paid in full. She now owns her home free and clear.
 
She related it was not easy to make the mortgage payments. Her first year as a homeowner, she was earning only 190 euros a month teaching. The house was important to her and she sacrificed. She claims, and I believe her, that she ate only beans  for a whole year. She could not purchase even a quart of milk.
 
She has been working summers to help pay off the house. Now that the house is paid, she works summers to renovate it. New windows, new doors and the like.
 
Her home is everything to her. She describes it as “…..the most beautiful place in the world.” She says, “I find peace in  my house.”
 
Simplicity best describes the previous paragraph. It also reflects well on the state of her soul.
 
She is glad to have summer employment on Amorgos. It is hard work as she describes it, however. She works long days. Earns four euros an hour. Her employer pays half her rent. Flora does not live in the pensione complex. She rents a room elsewhere. She describes it as dingy. But it works for her.
 
Her share of the rent is 90 euros a month. She also pays the utility bills. Her employer provides her with lunch each day. That is all Flora eats. She buys no other food. She does not go out after work. She saves every penny. Her sole source of enjoyment is viewing the ocean. She claims in the absence from her home, it gives her peace.
 
Flora is obviously on a mission. Her home. To put together enough monies for its renovation.
 
Flora’s widowed mother is 76. She lives with Flora. They share the same bed.
 
Medical is a major concern. Flora puts some money aside to pay doctor and hospital bills in the event her mother becomes ill. As she put it, “…..if you have no money, you die.” No medical attention is available without money up front.
 
Interestingly, Albania provides her mother with a pension. Sixty euros a month. Ten of those euros are retained by the government to cover the mother’s prescription drugs. Her mom has a bad heart.
 
She would like a husband. She stated it in no uncertain terms. “I want a husband!”
 
I was curious as to what she was looking for in a man. She is 41 and still unmarried. By the way, Flora is an extremely beautiful woman. Looks 30. Thin. The face of an angel. Magnificent eyes.
 
Flora says money is not important in her selection of a husband. She prefers “…..a good boy…..a good person…..one who works.”
 
Do you go out evenings and try to meet a man. “No, no!”, she responded. She never goes out evenings. I am not sure if it was because she did not want to be considered a bad girl or could not afford it. Her sole out of the house activity besides teaching was coffee in the afternoon with female friends.
 
Her best friend is a 20 year old niece.

I inquired what she liked to do best for pleasure. Dance was her response. If you do not go out evenings, how do you dance? At parties. How often do you attend parties. Two times a year. Teacher parties.
 
Teaching gives her the next best pleasure. Especially students who may be handicapped in some fashion. She presently has a boy who cannot hear well, but has the ability to speak. She has another boy who is mentally slow. She works extra time with them both.
 
Flora claims there is a benefit to her summer jobs. She gets to travel, to see the world. Last year, it was Italy. This year Amorgos. She considers Amorgos “…..a wonderful place.” She believes that people on Amorgos live better than she does in Albania.
 
Her health is good. She tries to take care of herself. There is no money for medical attention were she to get sick. I asked about yearly check ups, she laughed. What check ups?
 
I asked this simple woman what she would like to have that she does not. Her answer came quick. “A car!” She “…..dreams to have one.” She walks everywhere, even to work. If the trip is too far, there are buses. Small vans.
 
I asked about vacations. She responded, “For poor people winter is all year, there is no summer.”
 
The cleaning job is the most difficult she has had. She has to move swiftly to get all the rooms cleaned. The hours are long. She is tired all the time.
 
I was curious how she got to Amorgos from Albania. First a 16 hour bus ride and then a big ship. The trip took three days. Not bad, she said.
 
Besides a car, what else would make her happy? To only work one job with more pay. She went on to point out that the money here in Amorgos was better than her previous summer employment in Albania. In her home country, she worked every day in the summers for three months from six in the morning to midnight. For 150 euros a month!
 
Teaching hours are not bad. She teaches four hours in the morning. Then is expected to spend three hours at home in the afternoon preparing for the next day. However, she has been teaching third grade for over 20 years and so preparation does not consume that much time.
 
She told me prices in Albania were no different than on Amorgos.
 
She neither drinks nor smokes, except for an occasional wine at those two teacher parties a year.
 
Her English is self taught. She wanted to learn. Started with children’s books and worked her way up. She speaks and writes the language well.
 
Her home town is called Rubik. She tells me it is large. Four thousand people.
 
Such is Flora’s story. She has less and wants more. A universal desire. She is working toward her goals. She will attain most of them, if not all. I wish her a car, a husband, and good health at the very least.
 
Americans as a whole have more than most of their brethren world wide. Flora is an example. We complain. Some of us do have less than others. Some very little.
 
In the overall picture of things, Flora makes up for less with hard work. There are no social agencies, welfare, governmental help or Stephanie Kaples for her. She continues without complaint. 
 
We could learn from her.

THE BREEZE AND I…..

The wind is fantastic! Never stops blowing! Strong! Last night bent me over when hitting me from behind. Pushed me back when I was walking into it.

I have never felt wind this strong. The exception of course would be a hurricane. However, who goes out in a hurricane!

The locals tell me the wind comes in three day cycles. Last night was the fifth day in a row. Apparently no one told the wind its three days were up.

Yet, it is interesting. No one lets it inhibit their activities. The only change is in attire. You dress for it. The wind is cold. A sweatshirt for me.

My landlord Elini changed the Wi Fi system. Her previous one sucked. Of little use. Low frequency/power. The system has been upgraded. Yesterday and today I have been able to do the blog from my kitchen table. No need to wait till 10 for the internet store to open.

I intend to continue visiting and chatting with Spyros, however.

I just heard a strange noise. I am working with the door open. Two goats! Yesterday the albino. Today, what appear to be a father and child. Two weeks no goats where I am living. All of a sudden, they are my neighbors.

They looked at me with sad eyes. I thought they might be hungry. Ran in and got some bread. They would not eat it. What do I know? A goat expert I am not.

Yesterday morning was easy. I sat on the terrace and read. Went for a swim. Back to reading. I love it!

Lunched in. Made myself a sandwich. Then napped. Napping a lot.

The goats are back. Baying. Is that the proper word? They are eating the greenery around the terrace. Bread no, shrubbery yes.

Flora and I had coffee together at the end of her work day. I wanted her to read Flora’s Story. It will be available in the Florida keys in this week’s KONK Life which comes out tomorrow. I have decided to run Flora’s Story as my blog for tomorrow, also. For those outside the keys who might be interested.

This blog is far reaching. The last statistics I saw indicated in was being viewed in 49 countries. Amazing! An example is a woman who I heard from today. She lives in Ireland.

Yesterday, I wrote about having observed two Greek women rolling their own cigarettes. Apparently rolling your own is not uncommon in Ireland. Cost being the reason. Cigarettes are cheaper that way. I can understand. Cigarettes have gotten very expensive in the United States. Eight to $13 a pack depending where you are. Cost alone should be enough make smokers give it up!

Flora enjoyed the article. She wants me to mail a hard copy to her at her home in Albania.

Walked to the other side of the bay in the evening. In the dark of the night.

The Le Grand Bleu Restaurant was showing the Le Grand Bleu movie. Outside. About 40 people sitting around watching. I stopped for a while.

Le Grand Bleu is a French film that was made in English with French subtitles. Last night’s version was in French with English subtitles.

It was after 10. I had not eaten since my sandwich at lunch. I was hungry. Stopped at Mythos. Spaghetti bolognese. The same taste and texture as a few evenings earlier. Good!

Nothing like a pasta filled stomach when going to bed!

Vangelis’ wife’s name is Susanna. Learned it for the first time last night. A strange name for a Greek. Is Susanna from the deep South? She speaks excellent English. I will have to chat with her to learn from whence she comes. She is at the restaurant all the time. The cook. A very good one.

Met Claudia yesterday. Two times. First in the morning when I was coming out of the water after my swim. Then last night when I was walking around.

Fate?

Claudia is Italian. From Verona. Thirtyish. Thin. All Italinas are thin. Tall. Taller than me. She had to be around 6′ 3″. Spoke excellent English. More than bilingual. She speaks several languages fluently. She has spent a significant amount of time working in Austria. I never got around to learning what her work was.

Enjoy your day!

RICHARD BRANSON?

You will recall I mentioned two or three exceptionally lovely women who appeared to be hearing and/or speaking impaired. Their beauty was exceptional. Model types. They communicated via sign language.

I initially saw the ladies at Mythos. I have seen them there several times since. They are always with a man. The same man. He looked familiar. I could not place him. Last night, it dawned on me. He appeared to be Richard Branson! CEO/major owner of Virgin Airlines and a multitude off other international corporations.

Am I correct? I do not know. I will ask Vangelis and let you know. It looks like him. The sun bronzed face, golden hair and bright smile. If you are familiar with Branson’s background, you are aware he has been a huge supporter world wide of the hearing and speaking impaired. So it fits.

Yesterday was another slow day. I am not complaining. I enjoy them. My favorite activity has always been doing nothing. I never seemed to have time to do it.

I spent a couple of hours at a water front café sipping two freddo cappucinos. Cold cappuccinos. I was screwing around on my computer at the same time. Reading an Amazon Kindle book. London. I was half way through it. Somehow, I lost London and another book I have not yet read. I could not get them back. What to do now?

When I returned to my apartment, I decided to go into the water. The lovely Aegean Sea. Water clear blue. It was cold! Once my body adjusted, refreshing replaced cold.

There are some serious swimmers visiting and living on this island. Mostly middle aged and older. They swim far out and for a long time. I envy them. Out of my league!

Body shapes here on Amorgos are the same as in the United States. All sizes and shapes. It is not uncommon to see men and women with bellies. So much different from Italy. Everyone was thin in Italy!

The Greeks are warmer than the Italians, however. They are welcoming and open armed. Whereas, Italians avoided even eye contact.

Dinner at Mythos again last night. Why not, the restaurant is a winner. I enjoyed a large plate of smelts. Small tiny ones. Two to 2 1/2 inches. Fried crispy. My grandmother and mother would have been proud of me.

Vangelis had a Greek group playing at Mythos last night. Greek music. It must have been outstanding. Mostly Greeks in the audience. The group was given huge applause at the conclusion of each number.

Saw something unusual. Two women at differnet tables, each rolling their cigarettes. Not joints. For real tobacco. I could smell nothing unusual. Both Greek. I wondered why a person would want to roll their own when they can buy them ready made?

I prod. Ask questions. Gently, of course. It is hard this year to get people to open up about Greek politics. Most appear to be looking over their shoulders as they talk with me.

Enjoy your day!

ALBINO GOAT

Who would have thought goats would be a major topic on this trip?

Just after sunrise this morning, I was sitting outside on the terrace watching the water and enjoying a cup of tea. Along came this big white animal. It was on a rope leash. A young teenager holding onto the rope leash.

The animal was as big as a German shepherd. Looked like a goat. Especially the head, horns and face. However, the only goats I have seen on Amorgos have been small and brown/black. A sheep? No, the hair was different.

I asked the young man to stop. A goat? Yes. That is all I got out of the him. He appeared busy and moved right along.

I share with you that an albino goat resides on Amorgos. I found the fact interesting. How many of us has ever seen an albino goat?

It is amazing. Some days are full and busy, others slow and easy. Yesterday was a slow and easy day. I took things as they came. Not much came!

Between the KONK Life column and yesterday’s blog, I was at the computer six hours. A long time. Especially for one on vacation. No time to play tourist.

It was 3 when I finished. I stopped at Mythos for lunch. A dako salad. Terrific again! Bean bread, tomatoes and feta cheese covered in a light olive oil. Plus, two draft beers. I do not know what has gotten into me. I have always hated beer. Yet this trip, I am occasionally having one. Or, two.

Then to home and bed. Took a long nap.

It was close to 10 when I woke. The night/day was over for me. Or, so I thought.

A knock on the door. Some friends asked if I had eaten. No. Come on with us. We have not either.

At 11 last night I sat down to a full meal. Not my normal course of conduct. I enjoyed a gin first. When we were finished, the owner sent us a round of drinks as a courtesy. He was glad to have had our business. I received a double gin on the rocks. Just what I wanted! Not wishing to be impolite, I took my time and got it down.

I slept well.

Thursday’s KONK Life article is about an Albanian cleaning lady named Flora. The column is titled Flora’s Life. A comment by Flora is reflective of her life: “For poor people winter is all year, there is no summer.”

Enjoy your day!

MONASTERY OF PANGIA HOZOVIOTISSA

Spent some time yesterday chatting with Spyros. Turns out he is a prominent person in Katapola. Besides his computer/internet skills, he is Secretary of what I would describe as the local Chamber of Commerce. Called here the Association of Katapolis’ Businesses.

An interesting conversation. We covered my reaction to Katapolis, its businesses and people. All favorable. We also covered Greek politics. A today hotbed.

I had no plans for the afternoon. A stupid sudden urge hit me. Go back and revisit the Monastery from last year. The Monastery of Pangia Hozoviotissa. It was a killer walk uphill last year. I made it. I swore however, never again. I did not keep my word.

A short bus ride and I was there at the foot of the hill. Let me put everything in perspective. The Monastery was built into the side of a cliff. Back around 1100 A.D., some King was sitting on the beach and an icon of the Blessed Virgin washed up on shore at his feet. He took it as a sign from Above. He had this magnificent I do not know how it was conctructed monastery built into the side of the hill to honor the Blessed Virgin and God.

For a normal person, the walk up takes about 15 minutes. For me, it took 30 yesterday. Not bad. I went slow. People passed me. I did not care. The steps/path was a narrow walk way winding around the cliff. I made it and did not feel as bad as last year. In fact, I felt nothing adverse. God was on my side! The wind, also. A strong wind was at my back.

Nothing inside had changed in a year, except for the Monk talking with me. A different one. He spoke English. Wanted to know where I was from. Key West. He knew of Key West. A bad place. People take their clothes off. I jokingly asked if he had been watching Fantasy Fest on the internet.

He was curious as to what I did. I explained Key West Lou to him.

There is a book guests are asked to sign. I had signed it as Louis Petrone. Several guests had signed after me. He said you must sign as Key West Lou. He then signed my name for me as Key West Lou with the date.

I am immortalized as Key West Lou in a religious place!

Dinner last night was at a new restaurant. Rita, the American living on Amorgos, had suggested I try the Corner Restaurant. I did. Good meal! No, a great meal! Steamed greens in oil and bruschette to start. Lamb chops as the main. These were for real. The best yet. More than I could eat.

I have been working at my KONK Life column since 8:30 this morning. Took me five hours. A bit long. However that is the time that was required to tell the story. It will be published next Thursday. The title is Flora’s Story.

So much for yesterday and this morning.

Enjoy your Sunday!

OTHER SIDE OF THE BAY

Yesterday I walked around to the other side of the bay. A big distance!

I had already walked a couple of times the same route. However, I stopped where the concrete roadway ended. At the end of the line were two junk cars and a dirt path. The end of the civilized world for me.

From where I sit on my terrace, I can see directly to the other side the bay. What I see is a Church of sorts. All of one inch high to my vision because of the distance. There is also a minimal scattering of homes. There had to be a way to get to the Church and homes beyond the junk cars and concrete road.

There was. I found it. Three hundred feet up the dirt path was a narrow paved road. I followed the road to the Church. Unfortunately, it was locked. That is the second Church I have tried to enter on Amorgos that was closed. The Last Supper Church in Milan said I had to leave minutes after I arrived. The Church was closing. Amoros’ two churches closed. I am never going to be redeemed!

Later in the evening., I was discussing the trip with some neighbors. We were trying to determine how far across the Church was. How wide the bay. Someone mentioned it was farther than Tiger Woods could drive. The consensus was at least 2 miles.

The other side of the bay was interesting. Beautiful goes without saying. Besides the tiny Church, there was a taverna. A tavern in English. Also scattered homes, small coves, a lot of olive trees, and a man on a donkey. A donkey being the reliable and cheapest mode of travel on the island.

A big walk for me! Definitely at least 3 miles. Probably more.

When I returned to my rooms, I was exhausted. Nap time. When I woke, it was too late to catch the bus to Chora.

I was chatting with my neighbors and we decided to have a party on my terrace. The biggest spot in the complex.

We were American, French, Australian, and English. We chipped in and had take out. Take out exists everywhere.

The menu was vine leaves stuffed with rice and gyros. Pork and lamb. Followed by a series of Greek cakes. Plus alcohol, of course. Wine, beer, and gin.

A good time!

I only spent two nights in Athens. Five in Santorini. My total time on Amorgos will be a bit longer than three weeks. What I am about to convey, I did not notice in Athens or Santorini. The people are not the same as last year. The exuberance is gone. People are quiet. They will speak when spoken to. However, they are not as engaging as last year.

Who knows.

Spyros has become a friend. The internet guru who owns the internet store I am working from. He commented this morning that he did not see me last night. The cafe area/nightlife in Kapatola is small. An absence easy to note. I am glad Sypyos missed me.

Enjoy your day!

AMORGOS THE KEY WEST OF GREECE

Amorgos is the Key West of Greece.

It is not the night life that compels that judgment. There is no night life on Amorgos. It is the laid back atmosphere that Key West is so famous for. The locals here have the same laid back attitude.

The observation was arrived at last night while I was having dinner at Mythos.

The view from Mythos suggested a further similarity. The feeling, not the actual eye view itself. The same feeling you get at the Reach Restaurant’s back porch and the Pier House deck.

The wind is back. Blew last night. It was a cold wind. I had to wear a sweatshirt. This morning the wind is even stronger. You can hear it whistling. There are small whitecaps all over. The sun keeps you warm by day. A t-shirt suffices. The nights are another story.

Tonight, I intend to visit Chora. The oldest city on Amorgos. There is a Chora on every Greek island. Always the oldest town. Always on top of a hill. Always old white buildings. Always with Greek seniors sitting in front of their tiny white houses dressed in black.

The top of the mountain means cold. Colder. Definitely a sweatshirt or jacket.

I did Chora last year. The steps are steep and too many. Up, up and away! For me, it was no fun. We shall see if I can handle it better this year. My plan is to have dinner somewhere in Chora.

I carried through yesterday morning on my plan to walk immediately on arising. Forty five whole minutes. Up and down, some steep steps included. I thought I would try for a whole hour this morning.

Good luck! I never made it out of bed!

My computer system is now generally working. No thanks to Verizon. It still goes in and out. I am told the problem is with Vodaphone. Vodaphone is Verizon’s partner in Europe. The Verizon signal is strong. I have to get Verizon first. The Vodaphone signal weak. I cannot understand.

I sat and talked with Flora yesterday afternoon. The cleaning lady. Her story is fantastic! Guaranteed you will enjoy. I will do it as a blog one morning soon. We in the United States do not know how good we have it. Even the least of our citizens are in a better place than Albanians.

Cats have never been a favorite of mine. One appears to have adopted me yesterday.

All of a sudden, there was a cat curled up under one of the terrace chairs. Escaping the sun. I said get out. The cat apparently did not understand English. The cat stayed with me the rest of the afternoon. Later, I went inside to nap. I leave the door open so the ocean breeze runs in and cools the apartment. I forgot about the cat. No, the cat did not come in. However, when I woke the cat was laid out sleeping in front of the door stoop.

My visitor was nowhere to be seen this morning. I have a feeling he/she will be there when I return in a couple of hours.

My choices were twofold for dinner last night. Fried smelts at Dimitris’ or grilled vegetables at Mythos. Mythos won out. I wanted a drink. Dimitris has no hard liquor. Mythos has gin.

Grilled vegetables were an appetizer. My main course was fried calamari. Not like in the United States! Here like big pieces of octopus. Not what I wanted. I was hoping small breaded pieces as in the States. Still good, however. My problem was vision. Big pieces of head, tentacles and body. Affected my enjoyment.

My pants are staying up. I am not sure why. Either I lost weight or gained. At first, I thought lost. Now I am not sure. I am not drinking that much. Eating big time, however. Whatever, I no longer worry about losing my drawers.

Enjoy your day!